"r'BRAKV OF CONGRESS 




DooomoHoafl 




SX'.l'i'T-A- 2',i>-.f;v 7/7/./,yX- ('Mnj-M/ J.iSS. 



THE 



NORTHERN TRAVELLER; 



CONTAINING THE ROUTES 



NIAGARA, QUEBEC, AND THE SPRINGS ^ 



DESCRIPTIONS OF THE PRINCIPAL \^ 

SCENES, AND USEFUL HINTS 

TO STRANGERS. \ 



With Maps and Copperplates. 



NEW-YORK: 

WILDER & CAMPBELL, 
No. 142 Broadway, 



Fi a V 



Southern Distncl of Ncw~yurk.,ss 

Be it Rememberp;d, That on the 24th day of Febniai'}> 

.^,^^-^ A. D. 1825, in the forty-ninth year of the Inde- 

(L. S.) pendence of tlie United States of America, 

^-^^^^■^ Wilder k Campbell, of the said district,, have 

deposited in this office the title of a Book, the right 

whereof they claim as proprietors in the words following, 

to wit: "The ISorthern Traveller; containing the 

Routes to Niagara, Quebec, and the Springs ; with de- 
scriptions of the principal scenes, and useful hints to 
strangers. With Maps and Copperplates." In con- 
formity to the Act of Congress of the United States, en- 
titled "An Act for the encouragement of Learning, by 
securing tlie copies of Maps, Charts, and Books, to the 
authors and proprietors of such copies, during the timn 
tiierein meiitioned.'' And also to an Act, entitled " An 
Act, supplementary to an Act, entitled an Act for tJje 
encouragement of Learning, by securing the coj)ies of 
Maps, Charts, and Books, to the authors and proprietors 
of such copies, during the times therein mentioned, and 
extending the benefits thereof to the arts of designing, 
engravina:, and etching historical and other prints." 

JAMES DILL. 
Clerk of the Southern District of New-York. 



-<:' ^ 



^nmrA€m, 



The publishers of this work, being- convinced tiiat a 
handsome and compendious Traveller's Guide is deman- 
ded b)' the g-reat increase of travelling on the northern 
fashionable routes, have used their exertions to collect in 
one volume all the mformation of most importance and 
interest to such as travel for pleasure or health. The 
routes and distances between all principal places will be 
particulai-ly stated, both in the book and the maps ; the 
best inns will be mentioned, and such other hints and sug- 
gestions as may be deemed of importance will not be 
omitted. 

The finest natural scenes on and near the routes will 
be designated and described ; and the places which have 
been rendered memorable by important historical events, 
will be dwelt upon with sufficient minuteness to engage 
the feelmgs, though with such brevity as not to be pro- 
lix. The great watering places of Ballston, Saratoga, 
and New-Lebanon will claim particular notice, as the 
great central points from which most travellers arrange 
their journeys. 

The novelty of the mode of travelling adopted on the 
Erie Canal, as well as the magnilicence of the work itseU^ 
and the mteresting objects and scenes along its course, has 
attracted vast numbers of travellers in that direction, a 
large proportion of whom, during the pleasant seasons ct 
the year, are strangers of wealth and taste ; and there is 
every probability that the approaching seasons will see 
them increase still further. Care has therefore been ta- 
ken to collect the most recent accounts from that part of 
the country, on the plan sketched above. 



IV. PREFACE. 

Several valttable works relating to different parts ot 
the regions comprised in this volume, have been published 
at different periods ; and to some of them the author has 
been indebted for valuable information ; but there is 
none which is calculated by itself to supply the place of 
a complete Traveller's Guide, for which the present work 
is intended. Some are too prolix for the convenience of 
a traveller ; others contain much other matter, or have 
become antiquated by time ; and others are confined to a 
few subjects. A list of these works will be given here- 
after ; and all of them may be recommended for the par- 
ticular departments to which they respectively refer. 

It is intended in future editions of this work to embel- 
lish it still further with prints of interesting scenes, and to 
add such new maps and plans as may appear of most im- 
portance. The changes of all kinds which take place on 
the routes will also be carefully noticed, and new routes 
will be described as far as they may merit the attention 
of travellers. 



THE 

\ORTHERN TRAVELLER 



THE CITY OF NEW YORK. 

As this is the point from which the traveller is suppo- 
sed to be setting out, it is not considered necessary to at- 
tempt a description of the city, nor of any of its places ef 
resort or public institutions. Those who wish to become 
acquainted witli tliem, are referred to " Stranger's Gmde 
to the City of New York^'" by which they will be supplied 
with all necessary information concerning the public 
buildings, societies, institutions, customs, laws, &;c. &;c. 
Hooker^s map of the city will be of essential use in finding 
the way to distant places. 

Before leaving this city, the stranger will find it judi- 
cious to obtain a supply of such books and maps as will be 
necessary on the route he intends to travel ; and the ad- 
vantages which they will afford him can hardly be estima- 
ted except by those who know their value by experience. 
By directing him to the best roads and inns they will 
contribute materially to his comfort ; and by the informa- 
tion they contain, much expense is often avoided, so that 
the purchase will often prove friendly to his purse as 
well as to his time. 

To those who intend to take the eastei-n tour, up Con- 
necticut river to the White Hills, Winnipisiogee Lake 
and Boston, the "Traveller's Guide in New England" 
may be mentioned, as well as Dr. Dwight's Travels, 
which last embraces all the eastern states, a? well as 
New York. 
A2 



t) THE NORTHERN 

The following list of books and maps is given for those 
who maywish for more details concerning this state and 
Canadfc, than we are able to furnish in the present sum- 
mary view. 

BOOKS. 

CD. Colden's History of the Five Nations. 

Dr Dwight's Travels in the New-England States and 
New- York. 

Professor Silliman's Short Tour to Monti-eal and Que- 
bec, in 18 mo. 

Van Rensselaer's Geological Survey of the Canal 
Route. 

Hibernicus' Letters on the New- York Canal. 

Fashionable Tour, or a trip to the Springs, Niagara 
and Quebec. 

Spafford's Gazetteer of the State of New-York. 

Spafford's Pocket Guide to the Canal Route. 

Spafford^s New-York Pocket Book. 

Yates and Moulton's History of New- York, &c. kc 

MAPS. 

Eddy's Map of the State of New- York. 
Vance's Map of the W^estern part of the same. 
Goodrich's Map of the Hudson River, on rollers or in a 
book. 

STEAM-BOATS TO ALBANY. 

The following Steam-Boats ply between New- York 
and Albany. 

Riclunond, i 

Chancellor Livingston, > large boats. 
James Kent, ) 

Wm. Penn, Olive Branch, and two small rotary boats. 
The Bristol, Henry Eckford, Constitution, Constella- 
tion, and Chief Justice Marshall, are to run to Troy with 
freight and passengers. 

A boat is building for Peekskill. 

There is a great difference in the charges of these boats, 
biit the accommodations travellers will find on board of 



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TRAVELLER. 7 

them are generally good, except when they are too much 
crowded with passengers. Strangers will generally pre- 
fer the lai-ge ones, because they are furnished with an 
upper deck, called the promenade, which is sheltered 
from the sun by an awning, and affords a much more un- 
interrupted prospect, as well as better air. As two or 
three will go every day, and the traveller can choose 
better for himself, it is umiecessary to make any further 
suggestions, except that ladies will find the lower cabin 
preferable to the upper, although they are apt to prefer 
the latter before they have become acquainted with 
it. 

Cautions. If luggage is sent by a porter, ask him for 
his number^ so that if he is negligent or dishonest, he may 
be reported at the police office. It is best to go to the 
steam-boat ten or fifteen minutes before the time of de- 
parture, to avoid the crowd which always collects at the 
dock. A traveller is too often pressed upon by imper- 
tinent fellows, who recommend their own vessels, and 
urge him to take passage in them. The only way to 
treat them is without reply. Such things ought never 
to be permitted by the proprietors, although they are 
rivals ; neither ought they to allow the throngs of por- 
ters, cartmen, &;c. who rush in upon deck as soon as the 
boats arrive, both here and at Albany, to the annoyance 
of the passengers, and the exposure of their property. 
All travellers should remonstrate against so unreasonable 
a practice ; and if any of the proprietors should see this 
statement of the grievance, it is to be hoped that they 
will be convinced of its justice, and the necessity of re- 
formation, which would benefit themselves as well as 
their passengers. 



PASSAGE UP HUDSON RIVER. 

On leaving New- York, the traveller finds himself in 
tlie midst of a fine and varied scene. The Battery lies be- 
liind him, with Governor's Island and Castle Williams 
projecting beyond; still more distant is Red Hook, and 
then opens the passage called the Narrows, with Staten 
Island on the right, leading to Sandy Hook and the Allan- 



;. THE NORTHERN 

ric ocean, which is 30 miles from tlie city. On the wes; 
•side of the buy are Bedlow's and Gibbet IsUmds, with 
Ibrtifications ; the point at the moutli of the Hudson is 
Powles Hook, on which stands a small town in New- 
.Tersey called Jersey City; and the village of Hohoken 
is seen a mile or more up the river. The hills of Wee- 
hawken appear beyond ; as the boat moves rapidly on, 
it passes the crowded line of buildings in Washington- 
street, the State Prison, and the North Bat/en/. 

At Hoboken, under a ledge of rocks facing the river, 
and about the distanceof 6 miles from the city, is the spot 
where General Alexander Hamilton fell in a duel with 
Col. Burr. A monument of white marble was erected to 
his memory on the place; but it has been removed',within 
a feAV years to Trinity Church yard. This is the common 
duelling ground for combatants from the city, and ma- 
ny lives liave been lost on this fatal spot. 

The Pai.isaddes, — a remarkable range of precipi- 
ces or trap rock, which begin near this place, extend up 
the river on tlie west side 20 miles, to Tappan, and 
form a singular, and in many places an impassable bound- 
ary. In some places an old red sand stone ibundation is 
seen appearing below ; but the great mass of the rocks 
presents the mural precipices of the trap formation, and 
rises from the height of 15 or 20 feet to 500 or 550. 

The Lunatic Asylum is seen on the other side, about 
a mile and a half beyond, and is a large building of hew.n 
stone, occupying a commanding situation. 

Harlaem Heights are a short distance further. 
They form an elevated ridge across Manhattan island, on 
which a line of fortifications was thrown up during the 
late war, quite over to the east river. 

Fort Lee, 2 miles, on the west side of the river, is 
situated on the brow of the Palisadoes, more than 300 
feet above the river. 

Fort Washingtoht, 1 mile, nearly opposite. 

Fort Independence, 2 miles, on tlie west side. Here 
the Palisadoes are of still greater height. 

Dobb's Ferry, 10 miles. This is the best point to 
stop, if the traveller intends to visit the Grave of Andre. 
as the spot is only 2 1-2 miles distant, in Tappan. His 
Temnins Imwever. have been carried to England. 



TRAVELLER. 9 

i'ARRYTOWN, 3^ miles. This is the place where Ma- 
jor Andre was stopped, returning from his visit to Gen. 
Arnold, and on his way to the British lines. The place 
was then neutral ground, as the Americans and English 
lay encamped above and below. The previous life of this 
interesting young officer, together with the amiableness 
of his disposition, the refinement of his education, and the 
melancholy and ignominious fate to which he was brought, 
by one of the unhappy concurrences too often produced 
by war, spi-ead a deep and universal sentiment of sympa- 
thy throughout this country, which time will never ob- 
literate, and which will be only perpetuated by our his- 
tory. 

For a detail of the circumstances connected with Major 
Andre's capture, the reader is referred to a brief history 
of them, introduced in the account of West Poinf^ a few 
pages beyond. 

The Entrance of the Highlands, is a short dis- 
tance beyond this place, and 40 miles from New-York. 
This is a region no less remarkable for the important 
military events of which it has been the theatre, than for 
the grandeur and nobleness of its natural scenery. In 
pointing out the various positions as we pass along, we 
shall give them all a notice, but endeavour to enlarge 
only on those whose history demands a more particulai- 
attention. 

Stony Point. The little rough promontory on the 
left, nearly a mile below the entrance of the Highlands, 
was a fortified position during the American war. The 
British took it from Gen. Wayne in 1778, but lost it 
again the same year. 

Verplanck's Point, on the opposite side, was also 
the site of a fort ; but is now ornamented with a hand- 
some private mansion, and the rocks near the landing are 
tastefully variegated with a lawn, an arbour, and manv 
line trees. 

FORT MONTGOMERY AND FORT CLINTON, 
5 miles. 
These forts were taken by Sir Henry Clinton, on the 
<>th of October. 1777. His object was to co-operate with 



• THE NORTHEllIS 

(len. Burgoyne, at that time closclywalchetl by Gevi. 
flates near Saratog-a, and to afford him an opportunity to 
force his way to Hudson river, by elfecting a diversion in 
his favour. For this purpose Sir H. CUnton had left 
New-York with 3 or 4,000 troops, embarked in the tleet, 
and hmded at Verplank's Point, The next morning a 
detachment v/as sent to Stony Point, and marched round 
in the rear of these forts, then under the command of 
Gen. Putnam, and garrisoned by 1000 continental troops, 
part of whom were imfit for duty, and a small number of 
militia. 

Gen. Putnam, apprised of the landing made at Ver- 
plank's Point, and supposing the object of the expedition 
to be Fort Independence, had crossed the river, and made 
preparations to oppose them. He did not discover their 
real intentions until he heard the firing at forts Mont- 
gomery and Clinton, which are near each other, and 
were attacked at the same moment. Governor Clinton, 
however, and his brother, Gen. James Clinton, had arriv- 
ed just before Lt. Col. Campbell, with 900 men, attacked 
the first of the forts, and Sir Henry Clinton and Gene- 
rals Vaughan and Tryon the other. The fighting began 
between four and five o'clock in the afternoon, and lasted 
till dark, when the Americans having lost about 250 men, 
the forts were surrendered; but all the garrison who 
were able, aboiit 450, effected their escape, with the gov- 
ernor and his brother Gen. J:vmes Clinton. The British 
afterwards crossed the river, and entered 

Fort Indepenuence, which is a little above. A 
strong chain which had been stretched across the Hudson, 
to prevent the passage of the enemies' ships, was then 
removed, and the British proceeding to West point, re- 
moved the chain there also; and a part of the fleet, under 
Sir James Wallace, went up to Kingston, with General 
Vaughan and his troops. Although they found the village 
defenceless, the officers ordered it to be burnt, on the 13tli 
of October. The British proceeded no further than that 
place; for the news of Burgoync's surrender being re- 
r,eived a few days afterwards, the fleet returned to New- 
York. 

As the steam-boat proceeds, several points are obser- 



TRAVELLER. ii 

i tiU prujectiiig" into the river, some distance above ; and 
West Point makes its appearance on the leit hand, with 
the ruins of Fort Putkam elevated on a commanding 
eminence, a little beyond, 598 feet above the water le- 
vel. Of the latter, travellers have frequently remarked, 
that it is the only object in the United States which de- 
serves the name of " a ruin ;" but in the view of an 
European probably its claim would not appear very sub- 
stantial, as the elements have begun their devastations 
upon it within thirty or forty years. It is, however, as 
imposing in size as in position ; and the view it commands 
over its wild and mountainous neighbourhood, as well as 
its connection "with our history, will render it worthy of a 
visit. The large hewn stones used in its construction, it 
is said, were taken from the shore at West Point, and 
carried by men up that tiresome ascent. During the 
war a fort stood on the opposite side of the river, called 
Fort Constitution. 



WEST POINT. 

This was a military position of great consequence in 
the war. A battery was erected on the extremity of the 
point just over the river, to command the channel, while 
a strong iron chain v/as stretched across from the shore 
below, to the opposite side. This was taken up by the 
}3ritish, when they went up to Kingston. Just round 
the point, near the margin of the water, is the cold spring, 
from wliich the troops stationed there were supplied with 
water. 



The Military Academy oe the Ujvited States, 

is located at West Poiiit ; and a more delightful situation 
for such an institution could hardly have been selected. 
It is designed for the ins tiniction of young 7nen destined 
for the army ; and secondarily for maintaining the mili- 
tary science in the country. The Academy Avas establish- 
ed in 1802 by Gen. Williams, and extends only to the 
instruction of Cadets. The number of pupils is confined 
to 250, and in choosing from the applicants, the sons o^ 



12 THE NORTHERN 

revolutionary officers are allowed the first claim, and 
those children of officers of the last war, whose fathers 
are dead, the next. It has been made a subject of com- 
plaint, however, that too large a proportion of those ad- 
mitted are the sons of wealthy parents not designed for 
the army, while the poor are almost debarred from the 
gratuitous advantages of such an education. 

The level on which the buildings of the institution are 
erected, is 188 feet above the river, though it has the ap- 
pearance of having once formed a part of its bed. The 
principal building is large and striking. The annual ex- 
pense of the institution to the U. States is ^115,000. The 
sum paid for the education of a cadet is about |330 per 
ann. The library consists of a large and valuable collec- 
tion of books on the various branches of military science, 
which have been obtained with great assiduity and no 
small expense from Europe. 

One of the particular spots worthy of attention, is the 
site of Col. Beverly Robinson's mansion on the east side 
of the river, which was made the head-quarters of the 
several officers who were at different periods invested 
with the command of this important part of the country. 
It was resorted to at different times by most of our distin- 
guished revolutionary men, and was the place where 
Arnold was stationed when he so basely deserted his 
country's cause. 

In September 1780, while the British held possession of 
Hudson river up to the borders of the Highlands, and 
Gen. Arnold was in command here, a correspondence was 
carried on by him with the British officers on the subject 
of surrendering his post into their hands. To bring their 
designs to a conclusion, it was determined that a meeting 
should be held. 

Andre was sent under cover of the night from the sloop 
of war Vulture, which was then lying in Haverstraw 
Bay, to a place which had been appointed for the con- 
ference. A man by the name of Smith had been sent 
on board by Arnold, under the pretence of negociating 
about an honourable treaty with Great Britain, and he 
accompanied Andre to the foot of a mountain called the 
Long Clove, on the west side of the river. Here they 



TRAVELLER. i;i 

iound Gen. Arnold in a dark grove of evergreen trees, 
according to appointment : true to his word in this in- 
stance, though fals 3 to his country. 

The substance of the conversation held on that occa- 
sion, may be imagined, as well as the different emotions 
which must have agitated the parties. The neighbour- 
ing scenery throws over the place a darkness and gloom, 
well accordant with the memory of that night, and th6 
melancholy events of which it was the precursor; and the 
gi-eater and far more extensive evils which it might have 
occasioned, by placing tliis most important post in the 
power of our enemies. So long was this interview in 
coming to a close, that the day dawned about the time of 
its termination, and tlie approaching light put it out of 
the power of Major Andre to pass in safety the posts at 
Verplauk's and Stony Points. He was therefore obliged 
to retire to Smith's house, and change his dress for a plain 
disguise. 

General Arnold had furnished him with a pass, under 
the name of John Anderson ; and on the following even- 
ing he set out by land, accompanied by Smith as a guide. 
They rode that night to j\4c Koy's, after going eight or 
nine miles ; and the next he spent at Pine's Bridge over 
Croton river. Here he parted with Smith, and proceed- 
ed alone six miles, when, as he had passed the American 
lines, and was approaching those of the British, he was 
discovered by three men v^^ho fwere concealed from him 
behind a bank; and one of them suddenly stepping from 
under a tree by the road side, seized his horse by the bri- 
dle. Andre was put off his guard, either by a sense of 
security, or surprise, and thoughtlessly demanded where 
he was from. " From below," replied the man ; meaning 
from the British party. " So am I," replied Andre ; and 
he immediately informed him of his being a British offi- 
cer, travelling on urgent business. 

When he discovered that the strangers were New- 
York militia-men, on a'scout between the lines, he offer- 
ed his watch as a ransom for his liberty ; but having 
searched his clothes, they found proof of his designs, 
and refused to release him. They found in his boots, a 
'lescription of the works at West Point, with returns of 
B 



14 THE NORTHERN 

all the ibices of the garrison, in the hand-writing of Ar- 
nold. 

This happened on the 23d of September. A messen- 
ger was immediately sent to General Washington, and 
at Andre's request, Lieut. Col. Jamieson sent to Arnold, 
to inform him that Anderson was taken. The latter 
messenger arrived first ; and Arnold, as soon as he learnt 
the truth, took the horse on which he had come, and 
rushing down a very steep bank, sprang into a boat, and 
ordered the rowers to take him on board the Vulture. 
As soon as Gen. Washington was informed of Andre's 
capture, he dispatched Col. Hamilton to Verplank's 
Point to stop him ; but he arrived too late, and Arnold 
escaped onboard. 

On the 29th of September a boai'd of officers was ap- 
pointed for the trial of Major Andre, and sentenced him 
to suffer death as a spy. Objections were made to this 
sentence, on the ground that Andre had been introduced 
into the American camp under the passport of one of our 
officers ; but the delivery of Arnold being made the con- 
dition of his release, and that being refused by the British, 
he was kept in prison until the 2nd day of October, when 
he was hung at the town of Tappan, where his body was 
afterwards interred. 

The feeling which this severe and melancholy event, 
produced in the minds of our countrymen, was sincere, 
deep, and permanent ; and those who acknowledged that 
the sentence was just, and his fate in those circumstances 
unavoidable, lamented the ignominious death of a man 
of such a noble, interesting character, and one who had 
risen to a distinguished station at an early age. His life 
was published and widely circulated in the United States ; 
and tliere is scarcely a child to be found at this day, who 
has not mourned over the sorrowful tale of Major Andre. 

A few years since the British government sent to this 
country to obtain his remains, which were removed to 
England and placed in the family vault of the then Prince 
Regent. A cypress tree which grew over his grave was 
likewise removed to the garden of the present king. 
The roots of this tree were found to have twined thera- 
'^fhes about the sknll. 



TilAVELLEK. li. 

At leaving West Point, the travellex' will observe seve- 
ral remarkably high mountains on both sides of the river, 
for which he is referred to the map. Putnam's Rock 
was rolled from the top of Butter Hill, June 1778, by a 
party of soldiers directed by General Putnam. 

Njewburgh. — This is a town of considerable size, 3 
miles beyond tlie Highlands, with some handsome build- 
ings. Here begins the Stage Road leading from the river 
to Ithaca, at the head of Cayuga Lake, and communica- 
ting by a steam-boat, with the great western turnpike at 
Cayuga Bridge. For these places, see Index. 

THE CATTSKILL MOUNTAINS. 

As the traveller proceeds, he at length discovers the 
distant ridge of the Cattskill mountains, which limic the 
view in that direction for many miles, and forma grand 
feature in the scene. On account of their great elevation 
they seem less distant than they really are ; and although 
they present so imposing an appearance when directly op- 
posite, they nowhere approach nearer to the river than 8 
miles, and in some places retire 15 and even 20. 

An excursion to the summit of these mountains is per- 
formed by great numbers of travellers ; and indeed has 
become so favourite an enterprise, that it may very pro- 
perly be ranged among the principal objects in the great 
tour which we are just commencing. The visit may be 
accomplished in one day, though two or three may be 
agreeably spent in examining at leisure the grand and 
beautiful scenery of that romantic neighbourhood, par- 
ticularly in observing the break of day and the retiring- 
of the sun from that lofty height. There is a large and 
commodious house of entertainment erected at the Pine 
Orchard, one of the peaks of the mountain, about 3000 
feet above the river, which is visible from the steam-boat, 
and the ascent to it is performed without fatigue in a 
stage coach, which goes and returns regularly twice a 
day. 

The place to land for this excursion is Cattskill, 
where begins a turnpike road to Ithaca Taking the 
stage coach here,for ^1 you proceed towards the Fine Or- 



16 THE NORTHERN 

chard, passing a good inn at the mountain, (7 miles) and 
then beginning the ascent, which is surmounted by a 
winding road that affords much wild scenery and many 
a glympse at the surrounding country. Five miles of 
such travelling brings the visitor to 

The Pine Orchard. This is a large and singular 
plain, about a mile and a half long, and nearly a mile 
broad, 3000 feet above the river, covered with a growth 
of lorest trees, and furnished with a house about 50 feet 
square and two stories high, built for the accommoda- 
tion of visitors. The view which it commands towards 
the west and north is extensive and grand. The Hudson 
is seen winding from afar through its verdant valleys, its 
margin adorned with villages, and its surface enlivened 
with vessels of various descriptions. Immediately be- 
low is seen a region of uncultivated mountains, which is 
strikingly opposed by the charming aspect of the fer- 
tility that reigns beyond, and presents all the variety 
of hill and vale, town, hamlet and cottage. 

The Pine Orchard is the resort of so much company 
during the pleasant seasons of the year, that the attrac- 
tions of its scenery are redoubled by the presence of 
agreeable and refined society. Individuals of taste and 
leisure, and still more, parties of travellers, will thus 
often enjoy a gratification which is rarely to be found in 
a place naturally so wild and difficult of access. 

The South Mountain is a summit of greater eleva- 
tion towards the south, from which the view is more ex- 
tensive. It is 3,718 feet above the ocean. 

The North Mountain, however, is the finest point 
of view of all, being about 3804 feet higher than the 
Ocean, and overlooking a large tract of country on the 
north-west, which is not in sight from either of the 
others. On the west side of the river is seen part of the 
counties of Albany, Greene, Ulster and Orange ; and on 
the east, part of Putnam county, and all of Dutchess, Co- 
lumbia and Rensselaer. The distant high land in the 
t;ast belongs partly to Taughkannuc and Saddle moun- 
lains, in Massachusetts, and perhaps partly to the Green 
Mountains in Vermont. Lower down is discovered a 
range of hills in the western county of Connecticut. The 
eve embraces a tract of countrv about 100 miles in 



TRAVELLER. \7 

length and 50 in breadth ; and a large part of it is sup- 
posed by geologists to have formed the bed of a great 
lake in some long past age, when the Hudson was 
thrown back by the barrier presented at the Highlands,, 
before the present chasm had been cut for its passage. 

The rich cultivation of Dutchess County, proverbially 
fertile, will be dwelt on with great delight ; while the 
numerous vessels continually skimming over the Hud- 
son, may serve to remind the spectator of those vast and 
productive regions which nature had made tributary 
to other streams, but whose wealth has been diverted by 
art into the same broad channel. Many of the vessels 
which navigate the Hudson are freighted with the pro- 
ductions of Lake Erie ; and the stranger may perhaps 
have an opportunity to see them gliding by to New- 
York regardless of the wind, as steam boats are to be em- 
ployed this season expressly for that purpose. 

Nearly opposite is seen the old Livingston Manor, 
which is one of the few great aristocratical estates existing 
in this part of the country. It contains a tract of about 
14,000 acres. 

The Cascades. There is a singular and highly ro- 
mantic scene which has been intentionally reserved for 
the last. At the other side of the Pine Orchard are two 
fme cascades, which the visitor must not fail to see, even 
if he should neglect to ascend the north or south summits. 
A path leads through the woods to the cascades ; but 
there are two small Lakes from which the supply of wa- 
ter is derived, which cannot be sfien without diverging to 
the right. 

The Lakes lie very near each other and communi- 
cate by a small stream. They are probably about a 
quarter of a mile in circumference, each, and not very 
remarkable for their appearance. The stream which 
flows from the second lake runs to the western extremity 
of the Pine Orchard, where the level terminates very ab- 
ruptly at a high and shelving precipice, desending into a 
tremendous gorge between ridges of gloomy mountains. 
The whole scene is on a vast and imposing scale. The 
gulf is gloomy, and the steep ascents on both sides are en- 
tirely clothed with forests. Just at the feet of the spec= 
B2 



IS THE NORTHERN 

tator the stream rushes alon^ and. springs from the i-ock, 
in two beautiful cataracts, into the deep and narrow val- 
ley below. The first fall is 175 feet, and the second 80, 
both perpendicular, without a single protruding rock to 
break the snow white sheet. 

A small building is erected on the left hand, where 
refreshments may be obtained ; and on the right is a 
steep path by which even ladies may descend in safety 
to the foot of the falls. That is the finest point of view, 
and the whiteness and sparkling of the water are strongly 
contracted against the darkness of the caverns behind 
it, formed by two shelving rocks from which the stream 
is successively precipitated. Pursuing the course of the 
stream down the valley with the eye, it is seen rushing 
tumultuously along over a steep and rocky channel, 
winding between the bases of the mountains, until it 
gradually sweeps away towards the south, and disap- 
pears among the rude scenery that surrounds it. 

On a fine summf^r day, the splendour of the scene is 
greatly increased by the depth of the lights and shades, 
as well as the forms and motion of the mists, which the 
wind is continually bearing off from the water- falls; and 
the brilliancy of the rainbows with which they are often 
decked by -the beams of the sun. 

After gratifying his curiosity and taste with scenes like 
these, the traveller will return to Cattskill, to take the 
next Steam-boat ; and by making the necessary arrange- 
ments, he can proceed up the river with very little delay, 

THE CITY OF HUDSON, 5 1-2 miles. 

This is one of the largest aud most important towns on 
the river, and occupies a commanding eminence on the 
eastern bank, with several ranges of large stores built 
near the v/ater's level. On the brow of the ascent from 
the water is a favourite promenade, from which a charm- 
ing view is enjoyed of the river and the opposite Catts- 
kill mountains. The western shore is variegated and 
beautiful, and contains the village of Athens. 

If the traveller wishes to proceed directly to New-Le- 
hnnon Springs, this is the proper placa to leave the steam- 



JVbr^ 




TRAVELLEK. 10 

boat ; as tliere is a direct road leading- to tliat place, and 
a stage coach goes twice a week. The distance is 28 
miles, Hudson is 117^ miles from New- York, and 27^ 
from Albany. 

There are some fine country seats in this neighbour- 
hood. 

The Overslagh, 4 miles from Albany, is a place 
where the large steam-boats are obliged to stop when the 
river is very low, because the water is mucli more shal- 
low beyond. The small steam-boat Fire-Fly is then sent 
down to take out the passengers and luggage ; and at 
the hour of departure, comes down with the passengers 
for New- York. 



ALBANY, 145 miles from N. York. 

Inns. Rockwell's Mansion House, in North Market- 
street; Skinners do. Cruttenden's, do. on Capitol Hill ; 
Bamman's, South Market-street, and Fobes's, near the 
Steam-Boat Wharf, The best houses in Albany are large 
and well kept, and the stranger will find excellent ac- 
commodations, provided the city is not too much filled by 
the session of the legislature, or some other extraordinary 
occurrence. The charges however are very high in this 
city, and form a mighty contrast with the moderate de- 
mands for food, lodging, &;c. in the inns along the course 
of the canal, and in the canal boats themselves. 

Routes from Albany. Stage coaches run daily towards 
all the four cardinal points ; and six or eight frequently 
set off in the same direction. Indeed the number is often 
much greater than this, when the full crowd of travel- 
lers is pressing towards the springs. Two or three steam- 
boats go daily to New- York, small packet boats go on the 
canal to the Jmiction, 8 1-2 miles, and a large and con- 
venient one used to go every day to Schenectady, 28 1-2 
miles, but it is uncertain whether it will be continued. 
The circuit and delays occasioned by the locks, 
make the passage consume a whole day. The freight 
boats of the Erie and Ontario Transportation Company- 
are veiy numerous, and have been lately fitted up very 
comfortably for passengers, and convey them at a less 



JO THE NORTHERN 

price tlian the regular packets, although their charge was 
reduced last October to 2 1-2 cents a mile — dinner 31 
cents — breakfast 25 — supper 25 — lodging 12 1-2. How 
it will be hereafter, is not yet known. 

For places on the various routes, see the index at the 
end. 

The Capitol^ or State House, occupies a commanding 
position, and contains the Assembly and Senate cham- 
bers, the Supreme Court, County Courts, &c. fee. It is 
115 feet in length, 90 in breadth, and 50 high. On the 
opposite side of the river is Greenbush, famous for more 
than a century as a cantonment ; and the now deserted 
lines of barracks are clearly seen from the State House. 
This is the first point worthy of notice, connected with the 
colonial wars against Canada. At Greenbush, the troops 
supplied in quotas by the eastern colonies, used to meet 
those of New-York; and hence they proceeded under 
commanders appointed by the British government, 
against their enemies in the north. 

Albany received a great impulse during the late war 
with England, on account of its local position, but peace 
brought with it a fatal stagnation of business, the effects 
of which are still apparent in some parts of the city, al- 
though the more natural and wholesome prosperity 
which already begins to flow in through the canal, has 
done much to obliterate them. 

The Farmers'' and Meckajiics' Bank, at the foot of State- 
street, is a handsome building of white stone; and State- 
street itself deserves to be mentioned, on account of its 
remarkable breadth as well as steepness. The Museum 
is in South Market-street. There is a cascade at the 
distance of a mile and a half, on the south-western side 
of the town, worthy of the labour of a walk to those 
who are fond of wild and secluded scenes. The stran- 
ger however, will want a guide or particular directions 
to Wendell's Falls. 



LEBANON SPRINGS, 25 ra. east from Albany. 

This is one of the great fashionable places of resort, 
has a fine natural situation, a fertile soil, and is pla- 
ced in the midst of a fine amphitheatre of hills and 



TRAVELLER. 21 

mountains, the waters of the spring are al.i{ndant,and 
much esteemed for bathing, always keeping the tempe- 
rature of 12° Faiirenh.eit, although they cannot be sup- 
posed to possess any mineral virtues, as may be inferred 
from an examination of the following analysis given by 
Dr. Meade, and quoted by Professor Silliman : Two 
quarts of the Lebanon water contain 

Muriat of lime, 1 grain. /-./• ,j i- /? ■ , 

Of Aeriform funds. 

Nitrogen gas, 13 cubic in. 

Atmospheric air, 8 do. 



Muriat of Soda, 1 3-4 
Sulphatoflime, 1 1-2 
Carbonat of do. 3-4 



5 grains. 21 

The Lebanon water is therefore purer than most natu- 
ral waters, and purer than those in the vicinity, which 
flow from the same hill. It resembles very much thc- 
Buxton water in England, though it is not quite so warm ; 
and the Bristol water is another example of tepid water 
almost entirely without mineral qualities. Professor 
Silliman compares the scenery about Lebanon Springs 
to that of Bath in England. It is however graduated 
more on those principles of taste which habit' cherishes 
in an American, as it abounds far more in the deep hues 
of the forest, and every where exhibits the signs of pro- 
gressive improvement. Few places can be found in this 
part of the country, where the views are so extensive 
and grand, at the same time that they embrace so many 
rich and swelling slopes, with so many a scene of neat, 
beautiful, and productive husbandry. 

Messrs. Kerr & Hull's house at the springs, is very 
large, commodious, and elegant; and during the past 
.season, accommodated 300 persons at one time, proba- 
bly as many as any public house in the country. The 
attendance and table will be found excellent, and Sara- 
toga and Ballston waters may be obtained at the bar. It 
.stands close by the spring, and is furnished with baths 
supplied with the water. The old house has been put 
in complete repair, and fitted up anew ; a ver}^ large ad- 
dition was built to it in 1824, which attracted vast 
numbers of visitors to the place in both the succeeding 
.seasons. The first house measures 90 feet, and the new 



22 THE NORTHERN 

one 130, 5 stories high. They stand in the form of an 
h, and a fine piazza runs along them both, measuring 
220 feet. The place now vies with Ballston and Sarato- 
ga ; and has sometimes counted more visitors than either 
of them. The stranger will here find the same amuse- 
ment and gaiety growing up in the fashionable season, 
and witness the same round of arrivals and emigrations, 
with a similar decline as the leaves begin to change; and 
if not too much an admirer of nature to suffer the ap- 
proach of ennui, he may perhaps, after too long a delay, 
perceive in his own feelings something to remind him 
no less of those favourite resorts of fashion and ease. 

From the Springs to Hudson is 28 miles, and a stage 
coach goes thither twice a week. The following is a 
table of distances on the road to Boston. 



Pittsfield, - - 


9 m. 


Brookfield, - 


7 


Dal ton, - - - 


6 


Spencer, - - 


7 


Peru, - - - 


7 


Leicester, - - 


5 


Worthington, - 


8 


Worcester, 


6 


Chesterfield, - 


9 


Framingham, 


20 


• Northampton, 


13 


Weston, - - 


5 


Hadley, - - 


2 


Watertown, - 


5 


Belchertown, 


9 


Boston. - - 


10 


Western, - - 


7 







135 miles. 

The Shaker Village, a few miles from the springs, is 
an object of attention to most visitors. The village 
itself presents a scene of great neatness and beauty, as 
it is situated on a beautiful level, and laid out with the 
utmost regularity. The fields are divided by right lines, 
fenced with the most substantial materials, and cultiva- 
ted with great faithfulness and skill. It is a leading prin- 
ciple with the society, to allow of no private property ; 
all the possessions of each person who joins them, are 
thrown into the common stock, and submitted at once to 
their peculiar system of life and government. Celibacy 



* Northampton is a beautiful town on Connecticut River, and 
•wp\] worthy of a day's delay at least. Mount Holyoke commands 
Ihc finest view in this part of the country, and is easily accessible. 



TRAVELLER. 23 

they insist upon as indispensable ; and they profess to 
banish the love of wealth and ambition, as well as lux- 
ury in all its degrees, from their territories. 

So much has been lately published on their peculiar 
doctrines, that few words need to be said here on the 
subject. Not that their principles are very perfectly un- 
derstood by the public ; on the contrary, few indeed can 
be said to compi-ehend it, even among the society itself. 
Indeed it may be doubted, whether two persons could 
be found who would give the same representation of the 
subject. 

The founder of their sect was Ann Lee, who came fi'ora 
England some years ago, and established a small ''family" 
as they call it, which has been succeeded by various 
similar institutions in different parts of the country. 
They regard that woman as nearly equal to the Saviour 
of the world; and themselves as the only persons who 
have received that spiritual light which is necessary to 
understand and practice the duty of man, which is, to 
renounce the pleasures of the world, and, by a life of 
self denial, present a living testimony against error and 
wickedness. Their dress is plain, and their worship 
consists principally in a strange and disagreeable kind 
of dancing, whence they have their name, accompanied 
with a monotonous song. 

Some of their most experienced and perfect members, 
pretend to '' speak with tongues," heal diseases with a 
touch of the hand, and perform other miracles like the 
apostles. They are generally supplied with members 
in the children of poor parents, or the parents them- 
selves, who may be desirous of securing a comfortable 
living, and are not scrupulous in breaking the bonds of 
nature, by considering relationship as well as matri- 
monial union dissolved, which the rules of the society 
strictly demand. Occasionally, however, they receive 
more lucrative additions from an individual or family of 
wealth. 

They pay great attention to the raising of garden seeds 
in most of their villages, as well as to several of the 
neater branches of manufacture, and derive from both 
a very handsome income, by making sales at home and 
iv distant parts of the country. Whoever has an oppor- 



■24 THE NORTHERN 

tunity to see this singular people, will probably feel 
gratified with their neatness, industry, and economy, 
but will probably leave the place with pity for some, 
and suspicion of others. 

Geology. The tract of country between New-Lebannon 
and Albany is transition. Bluish grey transition lime stone, 
with veins of calcareous spar, abounds here in strata on 
a great scale, with a considerable inclination. It is com- 
pact, with a slaty structure. Grawacke abounds at in- 
tervals; also transition slate, and a fine red sand stone. 
At Greenbush is a bed of uninflammable fossil coal, or 
Anthrocite. 

The Albany Basin. The northern and western canals 
unite at the distance of 8 1-2 miles from Albany, and ter- 
minate here. To afford room for boats to lie while dis- 
charging or receiving their cargoes, a large basin has been 
built in the Hudson, which extends more than half the 
length of the city, and is one of the greatest works con- 
nected with the canal. It is 4000 feet long. 

The size of this basin, may afford the stranger some idea 
of the extent of the benefits expected from the canal ; 
and probably he will find cause to think them not over- 
rated, when he observes tlie number^ size and lading of 
the boats which already avail themselvesof the convenience 
and security of this construction. Here the traveller gets 
thefirst view of objects with which he is afterwards to be- 
come familiar, and if he is travelling this way for the first 
time in a few years, he must look with surprise upon the 
crowd of boats, and the bustle of industry. He may 
look unon them also with additional interest; for they 
will be hereafter presented to his view in many va- 
rying forms, though still preserving the characteristic 
aspect and impression, which distinguish the whole line 
of internal improvements, to its very termination. 

The route to Schenectady, by the canal, althoughso 
much longer than the stage road, and so much obstructed 
be frequent locks, is highly worthy of the traveller's at- 
tention, either in going or in returning ; for it will af- 
ford him an opportunity of seeing thejunction^of the two 
canals, the Cohoes Falls on the Mohawk, the locks by 
which the rise of land is artificiallv surmounted, tho 



TRAVELLER 25 

aqueducts which bear the canal twice across the river, 
the Wat Hoix rapid, and the gap through which the 
canal passes on the northern side of the Mohawk. 
The packet boats used to leave Albany for Schenectady 
every day ; if they should have ceased running, travellers 
may find very good accommodations in the boats of the 
Ontario and Erie transportation Company, which are all 
fitted up for passengers, and carry them at more moderate 
prices. Other boats of various description go every dayiu 
the same direction. 



CANAL FROM ALBANY TO SCHENECTADY. 

The boats start from the commencement of the canal, 
which is at the north end of Albany, so that a carriage 
will be necessary for the traveller and his luggage. 

State Arsenal, 5 1-2 miles, at Gibbons'-Ville. The 
advantages of this situation will be immediately per- 
ceived, the vicinity to the Hudson, the i-oad, and the ca- 
nal, affording every convenience for the transportation 
of arms and ammunition. This depository of arms &c. 
is under the charge of Major Hoops. 



TROY. 

On the opposite side of the river, is a very handsome 
town, with fine hills in the rear, the most prominent of 
which has received the name of Mount Ida, to corres- 
pond with the classic appellation of the place. There is a 
good horse-feriy, which helps to renderthetown a great 
thorough-fare during the travelling season. The Dam 
and Basin at Troy form a great and expensive work, and 
promise great benefit to the place, by diverting a part 
of the business of the canal. For Stage road to Bos- 
ton, see Index. 

As I suppose the traveller personally unacquainted 
with this part of the country, I may call his attention 
both to the advantages and the disadvantages of this 
mode of travelling. The opportunity foriooking around 
on every side is much better enjoyed in a Canal boat 
than in a stage coach, or even a private carriage, al- 
though it sometimes happen?, that the road command^ 
C 



'26 THE NORTHERN 

more extensive views than the canal. The immediate 
scene from the latter, however, will usually be found 
the most agreeable ; for a smooth sheet of water, with 
level and often grassy banks, is a more pleasant sight 
than a long stretch of a muddy or sandy highway. Be- 
sides, it is always free from the inconveniences of dust, 
which frequently render the roads in this part of country 
extremely uncomfortable. 

The Junction 8 1-2 miles from Albany, is where the 
Northern and Western Canals meet and unite. To 
this spot the canal has been of a greater width than 
either of the branches will be found to be. The 
Northern canal runs to Whitehall on Lake George, with 
locks, a distance of 63 1-2 miles, passing through Water- 
ford, Half-moon, Stillwater, near Bemis's Heights, 
(14 miles from Waterford,) near the battle grounds of 
General Burgoigne, Fort Hardy, where he surrendered, 
Fort Miller, Fort Edward, and Fort Ann. 

The Erie or Western Canal now reaches to Lockport ; 
and when completed, will run to Buffalo, on lake Erie, 
a distance of 362 miles. It has 83 locks, which raise 
and lower the water 688 feet in all. The principal points 
where the most labour and expense have been required, 
are the following : 

The Basin at Albany, — the Dam and Basin at Troy,— 
the Locks at the Cohoes Falls, — the two Aqueducts on 
which the Canal twice crosses the Mohawk, — the long 
Stone Wall and Locks at Little Falls, together with the 
beautiful Aqueduct for the Feeder at that place, — the 
long wooden Pier or dam in the Onondaga Swamp, — 
the great Embankment at Monroe, where for two miles 
the boats pass 72 feet above the level, — the Aqueduct 
over the Genesee at Rochester, — the 5 double combi- 
ned Locks at Lockport, and the long Pier at Black 
Rock. 

The principal natural objects within its neighbour- 
hood, worthy of the traveller's attention, are the follow- 
ing: 

The Cohoes Falls,— Little Falls,— the Falls of Tren- 
ton, 14 miles north-east of Utica, — the Lakes of Oneida, 
Salina, Onondaga, Cayuga, Seneca and Canandaigua : 
the three Falls of the Genesee River at Rochester and 
Carthage ; Niagara, and the Lakes of Ontario and Erie- 



TRAVELLER. 27 

Amount of trasportation during the year 1824, on both 
the canals, as estimated from authentic sources, 
112 tons of furs, prices varying, from 24 
cents to $4 per lb. say, on an average 
fl,60 $376,32000 

121 , 756 bbls. flour at $5, 25 639, 219 00 

19,884 barrels of beef and pork, averag- 
inaj per barrel $9, 50 187,89800 

25, 895 barrels of pot and pearl-ash at $25 647, 375 (X) 
128,674 bushels of wheat, at $1, 12 144,11488 

30,376 bushels coarse grain at 45 cts 13,669 20 

512, tons of gypsum at $4 2,048 00 

340,884 gallons of wiskey at 26 cts. 88,629 84 

8,295,610 feet of boards and plank viz. 
5,530,407 feet boards at $10 per M. and 2, 
754,203 feet plank at $15 per M. 96,782 1 1 ^• 

6,118 boxes of window glass at $3 per box 18,35400 
1,127 bbls. linseed oil, at 70 cents per 
gallon 25,244 80 

5,425 barrels water line at $3 per bbl. 16,27500 

1,056 M. pipe, hhd. and bbl. staves av- 
eraged at $2 1 ,35 22,545 60 
3,120 bbls. salt at $1,87 1-2 5,85000 
4,092 cords of fire wood at $3,50 14,322 00 



$2,309,206434 
This, it will be recollected, is but the value oi produce 
brought down from the west and the north to Albany. 
The value of the merch.andise sent back in return, we 
know not, nor is it material to our purpose, as the produce 
of the state, after all, is to be laken as the criterion of 
our wealth. In the above list there are many articles 
omitted, such as hops, butter, cheese, lard, wool, paper, 
lumber, &.c. which will swell the amount several hun- 
dred thousand dollars. To transport all this by land, 
would cost a day's work of 272,000 men and 2 m llions 
of horses more. 

In the unfinished state of the canals, the amount of tolls 
Avas, in 1822, $64,071 83 ; in 1823, $151,099 46; in 1824, 
$340,642 22. The canals will be completed in 1825, and 
it is estimated that on the first of Jan. 1826, the canal debt 
will amount to $7,602,092. The interest on this will be 
$410,000. and Jil>100.000 is estimated to be requisite for 



2S THE NORTHERN 

repairs and superintendence, annually. For the first ton 
years the canal tolls are estimated to average $700,000 ; 
the auction duties belonging to the canal fund, $250,000 
and the salt duties $170,000. The income from the tolls 
and funds of the canals will thus yield an annual surplus 
revenue of $610,000 to be applied to the reduction of t!ie 
canal debt, which it is estimated willbe paid oft'in 10 ijcars. 

COHOES FALLS. 

This is tlie great Cataract of the Mohawk River ; and 
a hasty walk along the bank will give him an opportu- 
nity to view the scene from a near point. The height 
of the fall is 78 feet. The banks are mere walls of strati- 
fied rock, rough, and sometimes hollowed out beneath, 
rising about 140 feet above the river for a great distance 
below the falls. At first view the cataract appears 
almost as regular as a mill-dam, but on a nearer ap- 
proach the ledge of rocks over which the water is pre- 
cipitated, is found extremely irregular aud broken. 
Many fine fish are caught at the bottom. 

The lower Aqueduct, 2 1-2 miles. On account of the 
difficulty of cutting the canal along this side of the river, 
above this place, it was found easier to carry it over, as 
thei'e is a natural channel on the other side, which will 
foe seen with surprise. This aqueduct is 1188 feet long, 
and rests on 26 stone piers and abutments. 

Wat Hoix Gap, 2 1-2 miles — the channel above men- 
tioned. 

Upper Aqueduct, 9 1-2 miles — 748'feet long, and rests 
on 16 piers. 

Schenectady is one of the oldest settlements in the 
state, having been occupied as a little frontier fortress 
before the year 1665, when it was attacked by a party 
of French and Indians from Canada, and burnt, and 
many of the inhabitants murdered. This party was 
designed against the Five Nations ; but being much 
worn dow n with travelling in the winter, they fell o)i 
Schenectady. 

The appearance of the town is now fast improving. 
It was remarkable, until within a very few years, for 
the antique and foreign aspect of its buildings, and the 
inconvenience of its sti-eets, having retained in a singu- 
lar degree the Dutch fashions in architecture, &c. As 



TRAVELLER. :iy 

the Canal has nothing to bestow upon Schenectady, ex- 
cept the empty honours of a passing sahite, the place 
can never expect an extensive increase. 

Union Collcg;? is conspicuously situated a little out of 
town. Two large stone buildings have been erected 
several years, and if the original plan is ever completed, 
the appearance of the institution will be remarkably 
striking. In 1824 it had.234 students. Dr. Nottis president. 



FROM SCHENECTADY TO UTICA, 

B,y the Canal, 91 1-2 miles. 

miles, Rotterdam Flats, 

s - Flint Hill, in Florida, 

10 - Fort Hunter on the right. Queen Ann's cha- 
})el, and the site of the Mohawk Fort, or 
castle, 

J - Sclioharrie Creek, with the Dam and singu- 
lar ferry for Canal boats, 

4 1-2 Caughnawaga. Johnstovv n is 4 miles off to 

the right, 
T 3-4 Anthony's Nose, (a high hill) and the great 
cave. See plate second. 

5 - Lock, No. 37, Canajohai*ie creek and village. 

Regular can-iages go hence to Cherry Val- 
lei/, Tuesdays and Fridays, 
4 - Vilkge of Fort Plain, 

4 - Dam across the Mohawk, and Feeder, 

3 1-3 East Canada Creek, on the opposite shore of 
the river, 

2 - Mohawk castle. Church for the Indians, 

3 - Once the residence of Gen. Herkimer, who 

was killed at Oriskany battle. 
3 - Little Falls, Locks and village, 
3 - German Flats, 
3 - Lock, No. 48. On the south side is an old 

church, once used as a place of defence ; 

also Fort Herkimer. 

1 1-2 Herkimer village seen on the north side, 

5 3-4 Lock. No. 53. Here bedns the Ions; level. 

C2 



30 THE NORTHERN 

^vhich reaches to Salina. 69 1-2 miles. 
without a lock. 
19 3-4 Utica. 

At Johnstown, on the road, are two fine houses, 
built of stone, standing at the distance of a mile from 
each other. They were erected by Sir William John- 
son and his family, as this tract of country was his 
residence, and formed a part of his vast and valuable 
estate. There was originally a third house, similarly 
built and at the interval of another mile : but this 
was consumed by fire. Col. Guy Johnson and Col. 
John Johnson, (sons of Sir William,) inhabited the two 
first, until the revolutionary war; when, having attach- 
ed themselves to the British interest, they removed into 
Canada, and their estates were confiscated. Col. John 
afterwards came down with a party of French and In- 
dians, attacked the town and made prisoners many of 
his old friends and neighbours. 

The third mansion was on the other side of the road, 
and was 

The Residence of Sir William Johnson, 

for several of the last years^of his life. This distinguish- 
ed man, who makes so conspicuous a figure in the history 
of the state about the time of the French wen-, was born 
in Ireland in 1714, and in 1734 came to America, at the 
solicitation of his uncle. Sir Peter Warren, who had ac- 
quired a large estate here through his wife. Sir William 
became well acquainted with the Indian language and 
manners, and acquired a greater influence over them 
than any other white man ever possessed. He rose 
from the station of a private soldier to the rank of a 
General, and commanded at Lake George in 1755, 
although, as will hereafter be seen, the title which he 
there received, was really merited by Gen. Lyman. 
July 25, 1759, he took fort Niagara, and in 1760 went to 
join Gen. Amherst at Oswego, and assisted in the cap- 
ture of Montreal. He died and was buried at his seat, 
July 7, 1774, at the age of 60, very rich, in consequence 
of the increased value of his extensive estate after the 
French war. 



11 



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utooa/ Springs 
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Balls to IX 
Village** 



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31 



It 



UTICA 



'his is the largest of all the towns in this state west of 
Albany, its population being about 4,500. The style 
of building is very handsome, and in some cases quite 
elegant ; and the manners of the Inhabitants corres- 
pondently polished and intelligent. There are several 
handsome Churches here, and many religious sects, 
among which are enumerated a congregation of Roman 
Catholics. 

Hamilton College is situated in the village of Clin- 
ton, 9 miles from Utica. It has about 100 students. 



TRENTON FALLS. 

This most interesting object is "vvell worthy the atten- 
tion of every person of taste, being justly considered 
one of the finest natural scenes in this part of the coun- 
try. It will be necessary to get a horse or carriage at 
Utica, as no stage coach runs that way ; and to set oft" 
in the morning, as the whole day is not too long for the 
excursion. Particular directions should also be ob- 
tained before setting out, as the nearest road is very 
devious, and the country is but thinly populated. An 
excellent inn is kept near the falls by Mr. Sherman, 
an Englishman, who has a large collection of rare and 
interesting petrifactions collected among the rocks, 
well worthy of examination. 

From his house you descend a long stair case down 
the steep bank of the West Canada Creek, which has 
cut a frightful chasm through a rocky range, in some 
places 150 ft. deep, and is seen gliding swiftly by through 
a declining channel below. The chasm continues for 
four miles, and pi-esents the most interesting variety of 
cascades and rapids, boiling pools and eddies which can 
easaly be imagined. The passage or chasm between 
the rocks is every where very narrow, and in some 
places barely of sufficient breadth to permit the stream 
to pass; while the rocks rise perpendicularly on each side, 
or sometimes even project a considerable distance over 
head, so that it has been often necessary to form 
an artificial path by means of gun-powder. These pas» 



32 THE NORTHERN 

sages appear dangerous, but only require a little caution 
and presence of mind to ensure the safety of the visitor, 
as strong iron chains are fixed into the rock to offer him 
security. There are four principal cataracts between 
the stair case by which you first descend, and the usual 
limit of an excursion, which is about a mile and a quar- 
ter up the stream. The first of these you discover soon 
after the first turning, and is about 40 feet high ; with 
the greatest fall towards the West. The top of the rock 
on the right side is 150 feet high by line measurement, 
the second is a regular fall, much like a mill-dam, about 
8 feet high; the third, aremarkably striking and beau- 
tiful one, is 35 feet, and the fourth rather a succession of 
cascades, but presenting many most agreeable varieties. 

About a mile and a quarter from the house, is a small 
building lately erected for the supply of refreshments. 

A singukir species of tree is found in this neighbour- 
hood, called the white cedar, with drooping branches, 
which often grow to such a length as to descend far be- 
low the root, instoopingtowards the water. 

The rocks there are all a dark lime-stone, of a very 
slaty structure, and contain astonishing quantities of 
petrified marine shells and other animals of an antedilu- 
vian date, such as Dilobites, Trilobites, &-c. k,c. 

There are several other cataracts besides those already 
mentioned, both above and below ; and a stranger 
might spend sometime here very agreeably in observing 
them at leisure, and in catching the fine trout with which 
the creek abounds. The house is commodious, and has 
the reputation of furnishing one of the best tables in this 
part of the state. 

FROM UTICA TO SYRACUSE. 

Bi/ the Canal, 63 3-4 miles. 

Whitesborough, 4 miles. 

Oriskany village, 7 - 

Rome, on the right, . . . . g - 

Feeder from Wood Creek, and the old U. S. 

Arsenal, 1 - 

Oneida Creek, 14 - 

Lock 54, end of the long level, - - 29 - 

Syracuse. — 3-4. 



TRAVELLER. 33 

Whitestown is one of the most beautiful villages in this 
partof the state, as well as the oldest settlement. All 
this tract of country was a perfect wilderness in 1785, 
when Mr. White from Middletown in Connecticut firs 
took up his abode here and lifted an axe a^iunst tlie 
forest. The traveller may keep this in mind as he pur- 
sues his journey, and the progress of civilisation will 
appear the most astonishing. 

SIEGE OF FORT STANWIX. 

On the road from Whitestown to Rome, is the spot 
where Gen. Herkimer sat down under a tree, after le- 
ceiving his mortal wound. In 1777 Gen. Burgoyne sent 
between 15 and 1800 men, part sa-vages, under Baron 
St. Leger, to go from Montreal, by Lake Ontario, to at- 
tack Fort Stanwix; and then to go down the Mohawk 
to Albany. Early in August they arrived at Fort Stan- 
wix. Gen. Herkimer, commander of the militia of 
Tryon county, was sent against them with 800 men. 
His men insisted on going on, to meet a detachment 
under Sir J. Johnson, sent out by St. Leger; but at the 
first shot they fled. A few remained and fought, and 
Gen H. was killed. Congress voted a monument to his 
memory, but it has never been erected. The Americans 
lost 160 killed, and 240 wounded and prisoners. Two 
-miles below Fort Stanwix the canal commences between 
the Mohawk and Wood Creek; so that Rome separates 
the waters of the Hudson and the St. Lawrence. 

Fort Stanwix is 60 or 80 rods N. E. of the centre of the 
village of Rome. A deep ditch, three rows of palisades, 
with a block-house in the middle. It was defended 
against St. Leger, by Col. Ganzevoort. Lieut. Col. 
Willet drove him off by a sortie, and plundered the 
camp. He was intercepted on his return, but cut his 
%vay through, and returned without loss of a man 
When Sir J. Johnson returned from the battle with Gen. 
Herkimer, the fortress was summoned, but refused to 
surrender; and Col. Willett and Lieut. Stockton left the 
fort to inform the people towards Albany of its situation. 
They crept through the enemy's camp, and got to Gen. 
Schuyler's head quarters at Stillwater. Gen. Ai'nold 



M riii: >;0KTMr.ii\ 

voliinlt^oiTil to itUovc il. Hr fVluhtenod the bo^irj^-crs 
by m»>unsot" two tMuissarios. an lutliiM) ami » white inun, 
i\ lu) toll! such storios oltho foiT«' o( Ww Amnioans. that 
tht'v lot't their bagga^r ami tied prrripitatrly to Oueidu 
Lake. 

CuKKRY V'ah.ky was attacked in t)io iwohitionary 
war l>y Captain Bntlor. who canio down from Cauadu 
witli MH) men. iiitemlina; to take the Kiu't. Heinji disajv 
jiointt>»l in his nndertakin>;. he tell npon tht' viila!:(\ a«id 
murdered a i:;r»N»t number i>t" the dv^lVneeU^ss inhrJiitants. 
Iletnrnirii;- up tin* Mohawk. tt>wards llast Canada Treek 
and Oneithi Lake, the usual route in those times between 
(he Indian ci>uutry and Canada, he tell on Fort IMain. 
(now Cauajoharie.') where he perpetrated similar atroci- 
ties. He l\appeued. however. tt» cross the ATohawk 
beyond this phici^ ; and while ho was ciu'eh>ssly t\>llow- 
iuii: his troops at st>me tlistauce. near the montli iW" Kast 
Cajiada Creek, he w a<: overtaken by two Oneida Indians, 
Avho inunediately prepared to take Ins lite. Me used 
mniu' intreuties to spare him. but they yelled " Sheny 
lalla/, ii/urn/ I'allri/!"' and tomiUiawked him on the 
not. 



ONEIDA C VSTLE. 

This is a villai^e on the contines of a tract of reserved 
bind belongiuj; to the Indians of the Oneida nation. 
The principal residences of nxost of the Indians in this 
part of the country were formerly forlilied it» a manner 
coivspondiug with their ideas »>f warfare, and hence the 
name of castle atiaduui to this villau;e, as w ell as to 
several others we u\ay have occasion to speak (»f further 

OJl. 

The Oneidas were one of tlie original Five Nations, 
which form so conspicuous a liiiure in the histtny of this 
state. The best and most interesting account of tluMH 
will he t'ound in Coldeu's history, to which valuable 
work tlu^ curiou'^ reader is relVrred. They formerly re- 
sided, says that author, on the shores oi the St. Law- 
rtiice. near where Alontreal now stands; but being 
•liven from their country by tiie Aroudiacks. a power- 
■»i and warlike nation, wandered towards the south 



TKAVKI.I.KH. 35. 

wrsi, luifl Hctllnl nlnnji^ IIm* liiilu^s of Ncvv-Vork, where 
(licy now livf. This (x-cnrnMl l«'lon> (In- arrivtil of miy 
Kiiroprans in (his part ol (lie (-oiiliiiriit ; and wh<>n Wui 
I'l'didi riuiM' lo (iiM!hrc, ill hiO.'t, ihry iiciti (h«'ir pir- 
stMit ahoih*. On tli<> S(. liKwi'iMicc (licy Inid hrrn rnlli- 
vat<n'H of lh«' t^ronnd, Inii allrr (heir «;x|)nlHi()n Ihcy 
liirtKMl th<'ir nllcntion (o warlike (h*eds wi(h so inueli 
snee(>s.s (hat they linally (rinniiihed ov«-r (heir <'nenii«*s 
(he \nMidineKs, and idniost «'\lerniiMa(ed (h«in. Thj-ir 
power and iiillniMiee, a( (he (inn- of (he, se((l<'nien( of 
[Vew-Vork and Mew-hiiif^iand, were ext<Mnh'd Car and 
wide. They Indd (he Delavvares in suhjet'.tion in Penn- 
sylvania and Delaware; (h(r ( lierokees in S. Caroliiui. 
soit^hl (heir iViendship ; and all the e.onntry l)(*twe<'n the 
Ilndson and Coiineclienl rivers was trihnlary to them. 
They must hav«' lic« n al (ha( time ex(reniely nnmerous. 
liii[ since then thrir derrease has Ikm-ii ^reat ; (or lie.sides 
llu! lossrs (hey have sustained in wars, and tin; diseiisi'^ 
hronj^ht upon them hy eivilize.d vices, muny of (heir 
y(Min<!; nx'n havd left their nativ(M*,ountry to <;o and join 
tlie tribes wh(» utill pn-serve some p<»rtion of (heir origi- 
nal habits and indepcndenct;. Some of the nations, 
however, are said (o l)c gradually increasing, under all 
their disadvan(aji;«is. 

A ntile east of Oneida Crook, and by the road side,is 
(h(! ancient 



COUNCIL GROVE, 

Whore all (he public business of the nation has boon 
lor many years transacted. It is lormed of 27 finft 
butternnt trees, which, in the summer season, from a 
litth^ distance, present a beantiftd and re<j;nlar mass of 
venhire. It was carefully fenced in, until within a few 
years, anil kept clear of all brush, (alien limbs, and other 
obstrncli(uis, but has now become a mere thorou-^hfare. 
Towards tlM> south cast from this place is seen the 
rhm-ch, a haudsoujel»uildin<; recently erected for^the use 
of tie Imlians, by the Vestry of Trinity Church in New- 
York, and supplied by tluMU at present with a young 
man successor to the Uev. Mr. Williams, for .some years 
pastor of an Indian congregation hero- and now gone to 



36 THE NORTHERN 

Green Bay. Great numbers of the white persons trom 
the neighbourhood also attend service at this house, and 
this union of people so different in habits, in one act of 
worship, is a very interesting sight. 

In the scattering village about half a mile beyondy 
there are several decent and comfortable frame houses 
inhabited by Indian families, whose habits have risen to a 
higher grade than most of the nation, although many of 
them are gradually improving, by betaking themselves 
to agriculture. A handsome school-house has been 
erected at the same place, the frame of which was made 
and raised under the direction of a young Indian, from 
what he had learnt by watching the progress of the buil- 
ders employed several years before on his brother's 
house hard by. This instance alone is more conclusive 
of the Indian mental capacity for acquiring useful arts, 
than all the reasoning to the contraiy their enemies have 
evf'V advanced. 

Tiie Oneida nation deriv^ed their name from a white 
stone on a hill five miles southerly from this place, to 
which they long paid a superstitious worship. The 
word ^'Oneida'" in their curious and wonderful language, 
signifies a sfone on a hii^h hilJ. Many of them were 
idolaters until within a "short time ; but a few years ago 
the nation renouncedtheir ancient superstitious rites, and 
declared in favour of Christianity. 

BROTHERTOWN AND NEVV-STOCKBRIDGE 

Are two villages a few miles south easertly from here, 
situated on part of the old Oneida reservation, but granted 
to some of their scattered Indian brethern from Pennsyl- 
vania and New-England. New-Stockbridge is the pre- 
sent habitation of the Stockbridge tribe, who came by 
an invitation from the Oneidassome yeai'sa^o. They had 
Ch'-istian ministers among them long before they re- 
moved from Stockbridge in Massachusetts. 

Many of them nov/ reside at Green Bay, on land given 
Ihem by the Menominies, a nation with whom they are 
on the most friendly terms; and are adopting to 
a good extent the arts of civilized life. They have invi- 
ted the Oneidas to join them ; but as they and the Men- 



TRAVELLER. 37 

ominiesh have some old quarrels remaining^ unsettled, 
it is doubtful whether they will accept of the propo- 
sition. 

The Brothertown Indians have been collected from 
all the remnants of tribes in New-England and Long 
Island, and practise comparatively few of the Indian 
customs. 

SYRACUSE. 

This place is no less remarkable for the rapidity of 
its growth, than for the peculiar advantages of its situa- 
tion. The great Salt Spring is only a mile and ahalf distant, 
and the water is brought in hollow logs to the salt vats, 
in great abundance, and at a very trifling expense. 
These vats will be seen at the western side of the village, 
and are well worthy of a day's delay, as well as the 
works at Salina, Liverpool and Geddesburgh. The vats 
are large pans made of wood, three or four inches deep, 
raised a little from the ground, and placed in long ranges, 
with a veiy gradual descent, to permit the salt water to 
JBow slowly along from one end to the other. Each 
range of vats is supplied by a hollow log placed perpen- 
dicularly in the ground ; and the constant action of the 
sun evaporates the water, and leaves the salt to be de- 
posited in small cubical crystals at the bottom. The 
w^ater is at first a little thick, but gradually deposits its 
impurities ; and the lower vats always show a beautiful 
white crust, like the purest snow. 

Light wooden roofs are kept ready to slide over the 
v^ats when the weather requires it ; and the salt is taken 
out once in two or three days, to be deposited in the 
storehouses, which are built at regular distances. 

Thence they are easily moved to the canal, and are 
then ready for transportation to any part of the country. 

It is scarcely three years since the town may be pro- 
perly said to have been begun. In 1823 there were 
about 100 houses, and the number was doubled in 1824. 
In the autumn of the latter year the salt vats covered 
60 acres, and about 140 acres more had been cleared 
from the surrounding forest, for the purpose of extending 
the works, under the directioa of a company whose 
D 



38 THE NORTHERN. . • » 

enterpvize, seconded by the formation of the canal, is 
likely to prove of great and permanent advantage to the 
country as well as to themselves. Under the same en- 
couraging prospects, the village has acquired its sudden 
growth and importance ; large blocks of stores have been 
built on both sides of the canal, two or three large inns 
and stage houses are ready for the accommodation of 
travellers, and a handsome church has been nearly com- 
pleted. Improvements are still going on rapidly, and 
H is difficult to foretel Avhere they will stop. 

SALINA 

Is situated a mile and a half north from this place, ami 
should not be passed by unnoticed. A small but conve- 
nient little packet boat is continually plying between 
the two places, drawn by a single horse, and passes by 
many salt manufactories, built and building on both 
sides of the canal. The mode of evaporation generally 
adopted here is that of boiling ; and a brief descriptiou 
-will convey a clear idea of the process. Each building 
contains sixteen or eighteen large iron kettles, which are 
placed in two rows, forming what is called "a block. "^ 
They stand about three feet higher than the floor ; and 
vmder them is a large furnace, which is heated witli 
pine wood, and requires constant attention to keep the 
water always boiling. The water is drawn from a large 
reservoir at one end of the building, after having been 
allowed to stand awhile and deposit the impurities it 
has brought along with it. A hollow log, with a pump 
at one end, and furnished witli openings against the 
kettles, is the only machine used in filling them. The 
first deposit made by the water after the boiling corn- 
mences, is a compound of several substances, and is 
thrown away, under the name of "Bittern;" but the 
pure white salt, which soon after makes its appearance, is 
carefully removed, and placed in a store-room just at 
hand, ready for barrelling and the market. 

As the number of manufactories of this description is 
Klmost daily increasing, it would be useless to attemptan 
estimate of the quantity of salt they produce altogether. 
^^eparately however each yields abouts 40 bushels a day, 



, TRAVELLER tft> 

and in 1824 the different buildings were suppposed to 
amount to nearly forty. 

There are two large manufactories here, where salt is 
made in reservoirs of an immense size, and evaporated 
by hot air passing through them in large pipes. The 
process is slow, but seems to promise well. The reser- 
voir of the principal one contains no less than 40,000 
gallons. The pipe is supplied with heat by a furnace be- 
low, and the salt is formed in large loose masses, re- 
sembling half-thawed ice. The process has the advan- 
tage of not wasting heat in raising steam. The crystali- 
zation also is different from that produced by the other 
modes, at least in secondary forms. 

The Village of Salina is of considerable size and a 
flouishing appearance, considering the shortness of the 
time since it began to be built, and the serious obstacles 
it has had to encounter in the unhealthiness of its situa- 
tion. The extensive marshes which bound it on the 
west are extremely unwholesome during the warmer 
seasons of the year, and the whole neighbourhood is 
more or less infected with the fever and ague : that terri- 
ble scourge, which has retarded so much the settlement 
ofmany parts of this western country. Since the marshes 
have been partially cleared and drained, the disease has 
been greatly diminished ; and it is hoped that time and 
industry will reduce its ravages still further, if not en- 
tirely eradicate it. 

The branch canal which runs through this village, is 
applied to other valuable purposes beside those of trans- 
portation. A sluice which draws off a portion of the 
water towards the marshes and the lake, is made to turn 
several mill wheels in its course. A forcing pump raises 
the water of the salt spring destined to supply the manu- 
factories here and at Syracuse ; and a large open frame 
building shows the spot from which all the kettles and 
the pans of both those places derive their supplies : that 
for the latter being elevated to the height of 70 feet, and 
the pump being able to raise 120,000 gallons in 24 hours. 

The Salt Spring itself will be viewed as a curiosity, 
but in its present state presents no very remarkable ap- 
pearance, as there is little commotion visible on the 
surface, and the source would seem by no means equal 
to the great draughts which are continually made upon 



40 THE NORTHERN 

The Lake will be seen at the distance of about a mile. 
It is 6 miles long and two broad, and must receive a con- 
siderable quantity of salt water from the draining of the 
marshes, as its banks are covered with saline plants. 
The valley is surrounded by lime-stone hills with petri- 
factions, and gypsum is found in great quantities. 

" The American Salt formation,'''' says Dr. Van Rensse- 
laer in his ' Essay,' " extends over the continent from 
the Alleganies to the Pacific, between Sl*^ and 45° N. 
Lat. In this immense tract, rock-salt has been occa- 
sionally found ; but its locality is more generally point- 
ed out by lime springs." The salt springs in this state 
are in the counties of Onondaga, Cayuga, Seneca, On- 
tario, Niagara, Genesee, Tompkins, Wayne and Oneida, 
but this is the most valuable on various accounts. Dur- 
ing the year ending Aug. 1823, 606,463 bushels were 
manufactured here. In 1800 there were only 42,754. 

45 gallons of Avater make a bushel of salt. At Nan- 
tucket 350 gallons of sea-water are required. 

The following approximate analysis of the water of 
this spring is given by Dr. Noyes of Hamilton College. 
40 gallons, or 355 lbs. contain 56 lbs. of saline extract. 
Pure Muriate of Soda, 51 lb. — oz. 

Carb. Lime, coloured by oxyde of iron, — 6 1-2 

Sulph. Lime, 2 4 

Muriate Lime, 1 12 1-2 

and probably muriate magnesia, and sulph. soda. 

FROINI SYRACUSE TO ROCHESTER. 

As the traveller is supposed to go to Rochester by the 
Canal, the description of places on the Turnpike is omit- 
ted until we reach that part of the country on the return 
from Buffalo. 

Bjj the Canal, 99 miles : Weed's Basin 26 m. — a coach 
to Geneva, 8 m. for 50 cents. 11m. Montezuma Salt 
Works. Here begin the Cayuga Marshes. The Canal 
is borne across them on a pier constructed at a vast ex- 
expense. 35 m. Palmyra. Coach to Canandaigua, 13 
m. for 75 cents. 15. The Great Embarkment, 72 feet 
high, extending 2 m. 

Antk^uities. In the tow^ns of Onondaga, Camillus 
and Pompey, are the remains of ancient towns and forts. 



TRAVELLER. ^i 

<A which a description will be found in Yates and Moul- 
ton's new history of the state, vol. L p. 13. In Pompey 
llie form of a triangular enclosure is visible, with the re- 
mains of something like circular or elliptical forts at the 
corners, 8 miles apart, the whole including more than 
500 acres. De Witt Clinton, the present Governor of 
this state, in his memoir, read in 1817, before the Lit. 
and Phil. Society, thinks the place was stormed on the 
north line; 

In Camillus is an elliptical fort on a high hill, three 
acres in extent, with a covered w^ay, 10 rods long, to a 
spring on the west, and a gate towards the east. An- 
other is on a less elevation half a mile off, and half as 
large. Sculls, pottery, and bits of brick used to be 
picked up in these places. 

ROCHESTER, 

Is one of the largest and most flourishing places in 
this part of the state, and has several good inns. It is 
situs^d on the west side of the Genessee river, at the 
upper falls, where it is crossed by the canal ; and is 
consequently destined to be the place of receiving goods 
passing up or down the river; and at the same time en- 
joys the finest advantages for water-mills of all kinds, 
from the convenient and abundant supply obtained from 
the falls. 

Rochester is considered next in population to Utica. 
The following statement of its giowih and present con- 
dition js copied from the Rochester Telegraph. 

Rochester was first surveyed into lots in the year 1811, 
and the first settlement made in 1812. During the war 
the increase was slow, and it was not until the latter 
part of the year 1814, that any considerable additioii 
was made to the number of inhabitants. From that 
period to the present, the increase has been constantly 
progressing. In September, 1818, the village contained 
1049 inhabitants ; in August, 1820, 1502; in September, 
1822, 3130, (which included labourers on the public 
works ; the permanet population at that time was esti- 
mated at about 2700) It now contains 4274 ; of which 
D2 



4;i THE NORTHERN 

1241 are children under 10 years of a°:e, 373 between iO 
and 15 years, and 648 boarders. The increase since 
1822 is estimated at 1574. There are in the village 12 . 
physicians, 25 lawyers, 39 merchants, 14 taverns, 5 drug- 
gist stores, 42 groceries, 10 tailors ?hops, 14 shoe shops, 
7 milliner shops, 2 bookstores, 3 hatter s'lops, 5 saddle 
and harness makers' shops, 4 2,o]dsiiiith shops, 1 military 
shop, 7 bakeries, 4 painters shops-, 6b.irber shop?, 1 con- 
fectionary, 1 toyshop, 5 tin and sheet iron shops, 11 
cooper shop.-, 3 cha r sliops, 2 cabinet waiehouses, 1 
book bindery, 2 printing-offices, 3 gunsmith sliops, 12 
blacksm th shops, 1 coach-maker, 3 waggon-makers, 2 
t.obbacco factories, 1 looking-glass manufactory, 1 burr- 
stone factory, 1 saddle-tree and hames factory, 1 comb 
factory, Imorrocco-dresser's, 4 tanneri.?s, 3 plough facto- 
ries, 1 fanning-miU factory, 1 whcelvvri.dit, 3 manufac- 
tories of wooden pails and dishes, 2 stone-cutters, 2 
machine makers' shops, 1 manufactory of .edge tools, 1 
last factory, 2 stone and earthern ware factories, 1 cot- 
ton factory with 1400 spindles and 30 power looms, 6 
flouring mills with 20 run of stones, 3 c'istilleries, 1 oil- 
mill, 2 brr-weries, 5 carding machines and clothiers' 
Vt?^orks, 8 saw-mills, 2 trip-hamm :rs, 3 furnaces, 2 nail 
factories, 1 paper-mill, 2a.-heries, 2 scythe factories, 1 
bath house, 8 s ore houses, 1 eye and ear infirmary, 1 
bank, 6 meeting houses for Episcopalians, Prcsi yterians, 
Methodists, Friends, and Catholics, a court-house, jail, 
&c. 

The Aqueduct over the Genessee is one of the finest 
works on the course of the canal, and is no less remark- 
able for its usefulness than for its architectural beauty 
and strength. It is borne across the river's channel, on 
ten arches of hewn stone. The river dashes rapidly 
along beneath, while boats, with goods and passengers, 
glide safely by above. 

A feeder enters the canal on the east side of the river, 
where a sluice is also constructed for the supply of the 
numerous manufactories built and building on the bank. 
Another sluice is also dug on the west side, where many 
other mills are also to be seen. The Basin is large and 
convenient ; and the appearance of business which is 
observed about it, sufficiently shows the importance the 
plTce has already acquired. The streets of thetoAvn 



JL. 



Korlk 

I^ IT JL M IT 




''^rtes 



Bxiff. 
JVlb.26f 




I i 



! 



^^^ 



TRAVELLER. 4b' 

are handsomely und regularly laid out, and several ot 
them are very well built with store and dwelling-houses 
of brick and stone, and well flagged on the side-walks. 
Two fine churches are just completing on a small public 
square near the court-house, which is itself a neat build- 
ing of hewn stone. One of the churches belongs to the 
Presbyterians, and the other to the Episcopalians; and 
the style and size of both show the rapidity of the in- 
crease of inhabitants while they reflect much credit on 
the goodliabits of the people. 

There are two falls in the river at Rochester : one 
iust above the aqueduct, and the other, about 90 feet, 
half a mile below. There is also a third about two miles 
down, at Carthage, which, with the truly impressive 
scenery of the river banks, is well worthy of attention. 
To vary the ride, I would recommend to the visitor to 
go down on one side of the river, cross the bridge at 
Carthage and return on the other. 

Carthage. The fall here is very sudden, though not 
in a single precipice. The descent is 70 feet in a few- 
yards. The cataract has evidently been retiring for 
ages, as the deep gulf below the falls, with its high, per- 
pendicular and ragged banks, is sufficient testimony; 
and the seclusion of the place, the solemn and sublime 
eft'ect of the scenery, redoubled by the roaring of the 
cataract, combine to render it one of the most impres- 
sive scenes in this part of the country. The breadth 
allowed for the river is barely sufficient for its passage, 
being marked out by the tremendous precipices above, 
and frequently much encroached upon by the heaps 
of stones which cmmbled away from their sides. The 
precipices are perfect walls of secondaiy rocks pre- 
senting their natural stratification, from the level of the 
surrounding country, to be a depth of about two hundred 
feet. Their brows are overhung with thick forest trees, 
which in some places have been able to find a narrow 
footing along tlie sides. 

Oneof the boldest single fabrics that art has ever suc- 
cessfully attempted in this country, now shows a few 
of its remains iu this place. The two great piles of tim- 
ber which stand opposite each other on the narrow level 
where once the river flowed, are the abutments of a 
bridge thrown over a few years ago. It was 300 feet in 



44 THE iNORTHERA 

• 
•length, and 250 above the the water; but stood only a 
short time, and then fell with a tremendous crash, by- 
its own weight. Fortunately no person was crossing it 
at the time — a lady and gentleman had just before pass- 
ed, and safely reached the other side. 

On account of the obstructions at the Falls, navigation 
is entirely interrupted here ; and all the communication 
between tlie banks of the Genesee, as well as the Canal, 
and Lake Ontario is through Carthage. Merchandize is 
raised up the bank, or lowered down, by means of an 
inclined plane, very steep, where the descending weight 
is made to raise a lighter one by its superior gravity. 



ROAD FROM ROCHESTER TO NIAGARA Falls, 8? 
miles. 

To Carthage Falls - - 2 
Parma - - - - 9 
Clarkson - - - 7 



Hartland - - - 14 
(hence a waggon takes pass- 
engers to Lockport, 7 m.) 



Sandy Creek - - 7 
Gaines - - - - 8 

Oak orchard - - 7 
Cambria - - - 11 
Lewiston - - - 15 
Niagara Falls - - 7 



The principal objects on this road are, the Ridge, 
Lewiston on Niagara River and the Tuscarora village. 
Niagara Village will be seen if you do not cross into 
Canada at Lewiston : and Queenston if you do. Lock- 
port may also be seen by leaving the stage road at Hart- 
land 54 miles from Rochester, where a waggon awaits 
the arrival of the coach, to take travellers to Lockport, 
7 miles. It will be proper however to pay your pass- 
age only to this place, if you determine to stop here. 
The stage coach stops at Lewiston for the night. 

Instead of going by land from Rochester, it may be 
more convenient to take passage in the canal-boat to 
Lockport ; and thence go to Hartland to meet the stage 
coach. 

The Ridge is a remarkable elevation, of little height, 
and for the most part, very narrow, extending a great 
part of the distance from Rochester to Lewiston. It 
is often perfectly level for several miles, and aftbrds an 
admirable foundation for a road, and the stage road has 
in consequence been laid along its top. The manner in 



TRAVELLER. 40 

which this singular elevation could have been made, has 
excited the speculations of many curious observers of 
nature, and been explained in different ways. Some have 
imagined that the Ridge was at some long past period 
the shore of Lake Ontario, and was thrown up by its 
waves. The country between it and the lake is so level 
as to render it very probable that the water has once 
overflowed it ; but it is extremely difficult to understand 
how the waves could have managed to barricade them- 
selves out of a tract of country. It therefore seems more 
rational to adopt another theory : that the lake was for- 
merly still more extensive than is here supposed, and 
overflowed the land some distance southward of this 
place, when a current might easily have produced a 
bar parallel to the shore, which when left dry might pre- 
sent the form of the Ridge. 

The progress of improvement along this part of the 
road, is very rapid and flattering. The ground pre- 
sents a slope on each side of the path, peculiarly well 
adapted for home lots, gardens and orchards ; and the 
frequency and facility of transportation gives the in- 
habitants very manifest advantages. Some well built 
and even very handsome houses will be observed, which 
are still few indeed, but show that a good style has actual- 
ly been introduced. 

The TuscARORA Reservation is an oblong tract of land 
reaching within a mile of Lewiston. This nation of 
Indians are particularly worthy the notice of the travel- 
ler, on account of the advances they have made in the 
arts, and habits of civilized life. They emigrated from 
North Carolina near the beginning of the last centuary, 
at an invitation from the Five Nations, and were admitted 
on equal terms into their confederacy, which has since 
received the name of the Six Nations. They have had a 
clergyman settled among them for many years, and 
Christianity has been voluntarily adopted by them. 
Their village has a flourishing appearance, with some 
handsome and well cultivated farms, and a house for 
public worship. Strangers may here obtain mocassins 
and other articles of Indian manufacture. There is a 
stage coach which runs daily from Lewiston to Bufi'alo, 
on each side of the river. 



4t> THE NORTHERN 

There is a ferry at Lewiston, which is about halt' a 
mile across ; but the current is strong on this side, and 
the eddy sets up with such force on the other, that a 
boat moves more than double that distance in going over. 
The passage is not dangerous, although the water is 
much agitated by counter currents and changing whirl- 
pools ; for the ferrymen are taught by their experience 
to manage the boat with care, and not only to take ad- 
vantage of the currents, but to avoid all the rough places, 
ripples and whirlpools. The banks here have an ap- 
pearance vevy wild and striking ; and the stranger im- 
mediately notices the remains of former levels high up 
the sides of the rocks, which prove, however incredible it 
may at first appear, that the river once poured along at 
the height of about two hundred feet above its present 
surface. Niagara is about seven miles further up the 
stream ; so that the stranger will strain his eyes in vain 
to discover from this place that great object of his wishes. 

HINTS TO THE TRAVELLER AT LEWISTON. 

It will be the intention of many strangers who arrive 
at this place, to devote several days to viewing the Falls 
of Niagara, the battle grounds in the vicinity, and per- 
haps in making short excursions in different directions. 
To those who have leisure, such a course may well be re- 
commended; and it may be almost a matter of indiffer- 
ence whether they first visit the American or the British 
side. The public accommodations are excellent at both 
places, and the river may be safely crossed at any hour 
of the day, by a ferry, at the expence of about half a 
dollar, including the transportation of luggage down 
and up the steep banks. A stair case is erected near 
the Falls, on the British as well as the American side, 
to furnish a convenient mode of descending to the foot 
cf the cataract, where the charge is 25 cents for each 
person. During the pleasant seasons of the year both 
places are the resort of great throngs of visitors. Stage 
coaches also pass up and down on both sides every day 
at equal rates. 

To such however as have but a short time to spend in 
fhis neighbourhood, it maybe strongly recommended to 



TRAVELLER. 47 

crois t!ie river here and proceed directly to the British 
falls. The cataract on that side is higher, broader, more 
unbroken, and universally acknowledged by far the no- 
blest part of the scene. The visitor may indeed see it from 
the American side, but the view from Table Rock is the 
noblest of all, and ought by no means to be neglected. 
The finest view from the level of the water below is also 
atforded on the west side. 



THE FALLS OF mAGARA— from the. 'Imerican side. 

The IjJN or Hotel is a large building, and very weill 
kept and commodious. 

The height of the fall on this side is 160 feet perpendi- 
cular, but somewhat broken in several places by the 
projecting rocks. It extends 300 yards to a rock which 
interrupts it on the brow of the precipice. A narrow 
sheet appears beyond it, and then comes Goat Island, 
with a mural precipice. Between this and the other 
shore is the Grand Crescent, for which see a few pages 
beyond. There is a bridge to the island, which com- 
mands many fine views of the falls. 

QuEENSTON, on the Canada side of the river, is a small 
town, uninteresting except so far as regards its natural 
situation, and some martial events of which , it has 
been the theatre. 

THE BATTLE OF QUEENSTON. 

During the last war between the United States and 
Great Britain, in 1812, while Col. Van Rensselaer was 
stationed at Lewiston, he formed the bold design of 
taking Queenston ; and in spite of the difficulty of as- 
cending the steep banks, and the fortifications which 
had been thrown up for its defence, before day light in 
the morning of October 12th, he embarked his troops at 
the ferry and passed silently over the river. As the ac- 
cessible points on the coast were strictly watched, and 
defended by batteries of some strength, the place select- 
ed for the attack was the lofty and precipitous bank just 
above. Two or three small batteries had been erected 



48 THE NORTHERiy 

on the the brow, the remains of which are still visible •■, 
but this did not discourage the undertaking. The land- 
ing was effected, and in spite of the difficulty of the as- 
sent the heights were surmounted, and the Americans 
commenced a brisk action on the summit. Gen. Brock, 
who was at a distance, hearing the guns hastened to the 
spot ; but under a tree near the precipice was killed by 
a chance shot. The Americans remained in possession 
of the heights a few hours, but were then obliged to 
re-cross the river. 



THE MONUMENT TO GENERAL BROCK, 

Was raised by the British government in the year 
1824. Its height is about 115 feet ; and the view from 
the top is veiy fine and extensive, the base being 
350 feet above the river. In clear weather the eye em- 
braces not only the river below, and the towns of Lewis- 
ton and Queenston, but that of Newark and fort Niaga- 
ra, at the entrance of Lake Ontario, a vast level tract of 
country covered with a uniform forest, and the horizon 
formed by the distant lake itself. 

The monument is built of a coarse grey lime stone, of 
which the hill is formed, and contains some shells and 
other organic remains. The old park for artillery and the 
marks of various works, will be observed in different 
parts of the heights. 

From Queenston to Niagara Falls is 7 miles, over a 
level, sandy road. 

The Seat of Sir Peregrine Maitland is a handsome 
edifice near the road. It was once the residence of the 
Duke of Richmond. 

The Whirpool cannot be seen without leaving the 
road and going to the bank. A leisurely walk the whole 
distance, near the river, may please the admirer of na- 
ture ; as the high and rocky cliffs which forms the banks 
on both sides present a continued succession of striking 
scenes. 

Although the surface of the ground frequently indi- 
cates the passage of water in some long past period, the 
whole road is much elevated above the river, and owing 
to this circumstance the traveller is often disappointed 



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TRAVELLER. 4vT 

at not getting a sight of the cataract from a distance, as 
it remains concealed by the banks, until ie has approach 
ed very near. It frequently happens also, that the roar 
of the cataract is not perceived before reaching the inn, 
for the intervening bank intercepts the sound so much 
in that direction, that the noise of the wheels has some- 
times been sufficient to drown it entirely. Yet, strange as 
it may appear, the inhabitants declare, that at the same 
time it may veiy probably be heard on the shore of 
Lake Ontario. 

There are two large Inns or Hotels on the Canadian 
side of the river, both situated as near the falls as could 
be desired. That kept by Mr. Forsyth stands on what 
ought strictly to be called the upjier hank, for that ele- 
vation appears to have once formed the river's shore. 
This is the larger house ; the galleries and windows in 
the rear command a fine view of the cataract, although 
not an entire one, and overlook the rapids and river 
for several miles above. The other house is also com- 
modious, and commands the same scene from a differ- 
ent point of view. 

THE FALLS OF NIAGARA— /roj?i the British side. 

Following a foot-path through the pasture behind 
Forsytli's, the stranger soon finds himself on the steep 
brow of the second bank, and the mighty cataract of Nia- 
gara suddenly opens beneath him. A path leads aAvay 
to the left, down the bank, to the verge of the cataract ; 
and another to the right, which offers a drier walk, and 
presents a more agreeable and varied scene. 

The surface of the rocks is so perfectly flat near 
the falls, and the water descends so considerably over 
the rapids just before it reaches the precipice that it 
seems a wonder that the place where you stand is not 
overflown. Probably the water is restrained only by 
the direction of the current, as a little lateral pressure 
would be sufficient to flood the elevated level beside it, 
where, there can be no question, the course of the river 
once lay. 

Table Rock is a projection a few yards from the 
cataract, which commands a fine view of this magni- 
cent scene. Indeed it is usually considered the finest 
E 



50 THE NORTHERN .' • * / 

point of view. The height of the fall on this side is 174 
feet perpendicular t and this height the vast sheet of 
foam preserves unbroken, quite round the Grand Cres- 
cent, a distance it is estimated of 700 yards. Goat Is- 
land divides the cataract, and just beyond it stands an 
isolated rock. The fall on the American side is neither 
so high, so wide, nor so unbroken, yet, if compared .' 
with any thing else but the Crescent, would be regarded 
with emotions of indescribable sublimity. The breadth 
is 900 feet, the lieight 160, and about two thirds the dis- 
tance to the bottom the sheet is broken by projecting 
rocks. A bridge built from the American side connects 
Goat Island and the main land, though invisible from 
this spot ; and the inn on the same side, in Niagara, is 
seen a little way from the river. 

It may be recommended to the traveller to visit this 
place as often as he can, and to view it from every 
neighbouring point ; as every change of light exhibits it 
under a different and interesting aspect. The rainbows 
are to be seen from this side only in the afternoon ; but 
at that time the clouds of mist, which are continually 
rising from the gulf below, often present them in the ut- 
most beauty. 

Dr. D wight gives the following estimates, in his Tra-». 
vels, of the quantity of water which passes the cataract 
of Niagara. The river at the ferry is 7 furlongs wide, • * 
and on an average of feet deep. The current probably 
run 6 miles an hour; but supposing it to be only 5 
miles, the quantity that passes the falls in an hour is 
more than 85 millions of tons Avoirdupois ; if we sup- 
pose it to be 6, it will be more than 102 millions ; and 
in a day would be 2400 millions of tons. The noise is 
sometimes heard at York, 50 miles. , 

THE RAPIDS 

begin about half a mile above the cataract ; and, al- 
though the breadth of the river might at tirst make 
them appear of little importance, a nearer inspection 
will convince the stranger of their actual size, and the 
terrific danger of the passage. The inhabitants of the 
neighbourhood regard it as certain death to get once in- 
volved in them; and that not merely because all escape 






TRAVELLER. 61 



from the cataract would be hopeless, but because the 
violent force of the water among^ the rocks in the chan- 
nel, would instantly dash the bones of a man in pieces, 
instances are on record of persons bein^ carried down by 
the stream ; indeed there was an instance of two men 
carried over last year ; but no one is known to have 
ever survived. Indeed it is very rare that the bodies 
are found; as the deptli of the gulf below the cataract, 
and the tumultuous agitation of the eddies, whirlpools, 
and counter currents, render it difficult for any thing 
once sunk to rise again ; while the general course of the 
"water is so rapid, that it is soon hurried far down 
the stream. The large logs which are brought down in 
great numbers during the spring, bear sufficient testimo- 
ny to these remarks. Wild ducks, geese, &c. are fre- 
quently precipitated over the cataract, and generally 
reappear either dead or with their legs or wings broken. 
Some say that water fowl avoid the place when able to 
escape, but that the ice on the shores of the river above 
often prevents them from obtaining food, and that they 
are carried down from mere inability to fly ; while 
others assert that they are sometimes seen voluntarily 
riding among the rapids, and a,fter descending halfway 
down tlie cataract, taking wing, and returning to repeat 
their dangerous amusement. 

The most sublime scene is presented to the observer 
when he views the cataract from below ; and there he 
may have an opportunity of going under the cataract. This 
scene is represented in the frontispiece. To render 
the descent practicable, a spiral staircase has been form- 
ed a little way from Table Rock, supported by a tall 
mast, and the stranger descends with security, because 
his view is confined. On reaching the bottom, a rough 
path among the rocks winds along at the foot of the 
precipice, although the heaps of loose stones which have 
fallen down, raise it to a considerable height above the 
jvater. A large rock lies on the very brink of the river, 
about 15 feet long and 8 feet thick, which you may climb 
up by means of a ladder, and enjoy the best central view 
of the falls any where to be found. This rock was for- 
merly a part of the projection above, and fell abou^t six 



o:2, THE NORTHERN 

years ago, with a tremendous roar. It had been observed 
by Mr. Forsyth to be in a very precarious situation, the 
day before, and he had warned the strangers at his house 
not to venture near it. A lady and gentleman, however, 
had been so bold as to take their stand upon it near 
evening, to view the cataract ; and in the night they 
heard the noise of its fall, which shook the house like an 
earthquake. 

In proceeding nearer to tlie sheet of falling water, the 
path leads far under the excavated bank, which in one 
place forms a roof that overhangs about 40 feet. The 
vast column of water continually pouring over the pre- 
cipice,'produces violent whirls in the air ; and the spray 
is driven out with such force, that no one can approach 
to the edge of tlie cataract, or even stand a few moments 
near it, without being drenched to the skin. It is also / 
very difficult to breathe there, so thai persons with weak r^ 
lungs would act prudently to content themselves with a " 
distant view, and by no means to attempt to go under 
the cataract. Those who are desirous of exploring this 
tremendous cavern, should attend very carefully to their 
steps, and not allow themselves to be agitated by the sight 
or the sound of the cataract, or to be blinded by the 
strong driving showers m which they will be continually 
involved ; as a few steps would plunge them into the 
terrible abyss which receives the falling river. 



THE BURNING SPRING. 

About half a mile above the falls, and within a few 
feet of the rapids in Niagara river, is a remarkable Burn- 
ing Spring. A house has been erected over it, into 
which admission is obtained for a shilling. The water 
which is warm turbid, and surcharged with sulphurated 
hydrogen gas, rises in a barrel which has been placed in 
the ground, and is constantly in a state of ebullition. 
The barrel is covered, and the gas escapes only through 
a copper tube. On bringing a candle witliin a little dis- 
tance of it, the gas takes fire, and continues to burn with 
ti bright flame until blown out. By leaving the house 



TRAVELLER. 5.i 

closed and the fire extinguished, the whole atmosphere 
within explodes on entering^ with a candle. 

While on the Canada side of the falls, the visitor may 
vary his time very agreeably, by visiting the village oi" 
Chippewa and Lundy's lane, in this vicinity, which du- 
ring the late war with Great Britain, were the scenes of 
two sharp contests. 



THE BATTLE OF CHIPPEWA. 

In July 1814, the British and American armies being 
near each other. Gen. Ripley ordered Gen. Scott to make 
an advance on Chippewa, on the 3d of July, with Capt. 
Tonson's division of artillery, and the enemy's pickets 
Were soon forced to retire across the bridge. Gen. Rip- 

V.Jey came up in the afternoon and encamped with Gen. 

'>' Scott's advance. 

; ' The stranger may be gratified by examining the field 
of these operations, by going to Chippewa village, 
about two miles above Forsyth's. The American en- 
campment of July 23rd, is in the rear of a tavern near the 

' road, about a mile beyond Chippewa. The following 

• .description of the battle is from an account already pub- 
^-.vjished. 

■V',; " On the morning of the 4th, the British Indians had 
' .filled the woods contiguous to the American encampment, 

• ,and commenced firing at the pickets. Reconnoitering 

parties from Chippewa were frequently observed during 
the day along the river road ; and information was re- 
ceived that reinforcements had arrived. 

" On the 5th, the same course was pursued. The In- 
dians were discovered almost in the reariof the Ameri- 
can camp. At this moment Gen. Porter arrived with^ 
his volunteers and Indians. General Brown immediately 
directedthem to enter the woods and effectually scour them. 
Gens. Brown, Scott and Ripley, were at the white house, 
in advance reconnoitering. Gen. Porter's corps seemed 
sweeping like a torrent every thing before them, until 
they almost debouched from the woods opposite Chippe- 
wa. In a moment a volley of musquetry convinced Gen, 

• Brown that the whole British force had crossed the Chip . 

.Ea vi 



^4 THE NORTHERN 

pewa bridge, and that the action must become general. 
He gave immediate orders to Gen. Scott to advance, and 
to Gen Ripley to be in readiness to support. In a few 
minutes the British line was discovered formed and 
rapidly advancing — their right (the Royal Scots) upon 
the woods, and their left (the prince regent's) on the 
river, with the king's own for their reserve. Their ob- 
ject was to gain the bridge across the creek in front of 
the encampment, which if done, would have compelled 
the Americans to retire. Gen. Brown fearing a flank 
movement of the enemy through the woods on the left, 
with a view to seize the American reserve of Artillery, 
directed Gen. Ripley not to advance until he gave him 
orders. At the same time he rode to the first line with 
his staff and an escort of 30 dragoons, in order to di- 
rect the whole movements of the field, and animate the 
troops by his presence. Meanwhile General Scott, un- 
der a most tremendous fire from the enemy's artillery, 
crossed the bridge which the enemy had endeavoured to 
gain, and formed his line. The British orders were to 
give one volley at a distance, and immediately charge. 
But such was the warmth of our musquetry that they 
could not withstand it. At this moment General Brown 
sent orders to Gen. Ripley to make a movement through 
the woods upon the enemy's right flank. With the 21st 
regiment he passed a ravine in his front, where the men 
had to wade up to their chins, and advanced as rapidly as 
possible. But before he commenced filing from the 
woods into the open land under the enemy's batteries, 
they had been completely broken by the cool bravery and 
discipline of Gen. Scott's brigade, and precipitated them- 
selves across the Chippewa bridge, which they broke 
down on their retreat." 

Although the Americans were not able to cross the 
Creek, the British thought proper to evacuate Chippe- 
wa very precipitately, and to retreat towards Queens- 
ton. 

In this affair the British loss, in killed, wounded and 
missing, was 514, and the American loss 328. 

Nothing of importance occurred after this until the 
25th of the same month, the date of 



TRAVELLER. 5h 

THE BATTLE OF BRIDGEWATER, OR 
LUNDY'S LANE. 

The principal scene of this hard-fought and bloody 
action, is about a mile from the Falls of Niagara, at an ob- 
scure road, called Lundy's Lane. Since their retreat 
from Chippewa, the enemy had received reinforcements 
of troops from Lord Wellington's army in Spain ; and on 
the 25th of July encamped on a Hill, with the design of 
attacking the American camp the next morning. At 6 
in the evening Gen. Brown ordered Gen. Scott to ad- 
vance and attack them, which was immediately done ; 
and in conjunction with Gen. Ripley the attack was com- 
menced in an hour. The British was much surprised at 
seeing the approach of their enemy at this hour, not ha- 
ving discovered them until they left the woods and began 
to march across the open, level fields seen from Forsyth's 
Hotel, and about a quarter of a mile to the left. The 
battle was kept up with great resolution on both sides. 
vmtil half past ten at night. The armies, it is said, were 
within twenty yards of each other for two hours, and some 
times so mingled together, that, in spite of a clear moon, 
platoons were sometimes ordered by officers of the other 
army. 

The following letter, written by a surgeon of one of 
the American regiments, the day after the engagement, 
contains some interesting particulars : 

" In the afternoon the enemy advanced towards Chip- 
pewa with a powerful force. At 6 o'clock General Scott 
was ordered to advance with his brigade and attack 
them. He was soon reinforced by General Ripley's 
brigade ; they met the enemy below the falls. They 
had selected their ground for the night, intending to at- 
tack our camp before day-light. The action began just 
before 7, and an tminterrupted stream of musketry con- 
tinued till half past 8, when there was some cessation, 
the British falling back. It soon began again with some 
artillery, which, with slight interruptions, continued till 
half past 10, when there was a charge, and a tremendous 
stream of fire closed the conflict. Both armies fought 
with a desperation bordering on madness ; neither would 
vieldthe palm, but each retired a short distance, wearied 



56 THiE ISORTHERN 

out with fatigue. Such a constant and destructive fire 
was never before sustained by American troops without 
falling back. 

" The enemy had collected their whole force in the 
peninsula, and were reinforced by troops from Lord Wel- 
lingion's army, just landed from Kingston. For two 
hours the two hostile lines were within 20 yards of each 
other, and so frequently intermingled, that often an offi- 
cer would order an enemy's platoon. The moon shone 
bright ; but part of our men being dressed like the Glen- 
l^arian regiment caused the deception. They frequently 
charged, and were as often driven back. Our regiment, 
tinder Colonel Miller, was ordered to storm the British 
battery. We charged, and took every piece of the ene- 
my's cannon. We kept possession of the ground and 
cannon untill 12 o'clock at night, when we all fell back 
more than two miles. This was done to secure our camp, 
which might otherwise have been attacked in the rear. 
Our horses being most of them killed, and there being no 
ropes to the pieces, we got off but two or three. The 
men were so excessively fatigued they could not drag 
them. We lost one howitzer, the horses being on full 
gallop toward the enemy to attack them, the riders were 
shot off and the horses ran through the enemy's line. We 
lost one piece of cannon, which was too much advanced, 
every man being shot that had charge of it, but two. 
Several of our caissons were blown up by their rockets, 
which did some injury, and deprived our cannon of am* 
munition. The lines were so near that cannon could not 
be used with advantage." 

The British lost in killed, wounded and prisoners 878 ; 
.aittdthe Americans 860. 



GENERAL REMARKS. 

There was perhaps no part of our frontier where the 
war was regarded with so much dislike and dread as here. 
Many of the inhabitants of this part of Canada were emi- 
s:rants from New York. New Jersev and Pennsvlvania., 



TRAVELLER. .\>; 

and a constant intercourse kept up across the river has 
united the people on both sides like one people. Many 
of the Militiamen who were here called into action by the 
invasion of their territory, had friends and family relations 
in the opposite army ; so that the contest was to them a 
civil war in its effects, divested of all the impulse of 
passion. 

A little attention to the appearance and language of 
the people and their various manners and customs, will 
show that they are collected from many different regions, 
and have amalgamated very imperfectly. At the close of 
the Revolutionary war, the British government offered 
great encouragement to settlers on this tract of country, 
from whatever districts they might come. The situation 
of the place necessarily excludes all distant intercourse 
with other parts of the country ; and the original man- 
ners have therefore remained with little alteration. There 
are some Germans from Europe, and many from Penn- 
sylvania, mingled with people from New- York and New- 
Jersey ; and th6ir descent is often apparent from their 
conntenances and dialect, as well as the aspect of their 
dwellings and farms. There is a village a little removed 
from the high road, where little else but German is 
spoken. 

The Ferry across Niagara river is about half a mile 
below the falls, and may be crossed at any hour in the 
day, without danger, notwithstanding the rapidity of the 
current. The descent from the bank is so steep, that it 
has been necessary to build a stair-case. 

As Niagara is a central point from which many excur- 
sions may be made, as well as many courses taken by 
different travellers, the following lists of places and dis- 
tances on the two routes, will not be misplaced. 

TO BUFFALO ON THE CANADA SIDE. 

28 1-2 miles. 

To Chippewa, 2 miles. 

Waterloo, 16 - 

(Over the ferry to Black Rock, 25 cents each passeger.) 

Buffalo. 2i 



THE NORTHERN 



TO BUFFALO ON THE AMERICAN SIDE. 
30 1-2 miles. 



Tonnewanta Creek, where the Canal passes. 

Black Rock, 

Buffalo, 



11 miles 
10 



Queenston, 



TO FORT GEORGE, 
14 miles. 

7 1 Fort George, 



#( 



7^1 



FROM NIAGARA TO MONTREAL. 392 miles 



Lewiston, 
Fort Niagara, 
Genesee river, 
Great Sodus Bay, 
Oswego River, 
Sacket's Harbour, 
Cape Vincent, 



7 m. 

7 

74 
35 
28 
40 
20 



Morristown, 
Ogdensburgh, 
Gallop Islands, 
Hamilton, 
St. Regis, 
La Chine, 
Montreal. 



Regular Packets run between York, 
Youngstown. 



50 

12 

5 

19 

35 
53 
7 
Niagara, and 



■>^ 



Lake Ontario Steam-Boat from Niagara to 
Sackett's Harbour. 

The periods when this boat sails must be enquired 
for. It touches at Genesee river — passage $13 — for- 
ward cabin $8. 

Black Rock is a pleasant village situated on the mar- 
gin of Niagara river, a little way from its head, and op- 
posite Squaw Island, at the mouth of Lake Erie. It was 
burnt by the British during the war in 1814, buthas 
since been rebuilt and encreased to a much greater 
size. Congress, during their last session, voted a remu- 
neration for losses on this frontier. Gen. Porter has a 
fine house in this place. Black Rock long disputed with 
Buffalo the privilege of having the Basin of the Canal 
k built in her harbour, and at last obtained it. A pier 
.about two miles in length was begun, to secure the 



I 



M 



TRAV£LLEK. 59 

boats and vessels from the waves of the Lake, as weil 
as to raise the Avater for the supply of the canal to Ton- 
newanta Creek ; and was about three-fourths completed 
in 1824. When the basin is finished, the place must 
necessarily acquire great importance, as the produce 
transported by the Lake, and the foreign goods returned 
by the Canal, must here be reshipped if not landed and 
stored. Both Black Rock and Buffalo, however, will 
probably carry on an extensive and profitable business, 
as they both possess great advantages for such a com- 
merce. 



BUFFALO, 3 miles from Black Rock- 
Inn.— The Eagle Tavern. 

The situation of this village is remarkably convenient 
and agreeable, occupying a long hill of a gentle ascent, 
rising from the immediate vicinity of the Lake. The 
principal street runs along the ridge of the hill, looking 
out upon Lake Erie to the horizon, and is ornamented 
with several fine blocks of brick stores and handsome 
dwelling houses, together with several public buildings, 
all erectftd since the burning of the village by the British 
in 1814, as well as the buildings in the other streets, 
wnich are fast increasing every year. A large piece of 
ground has been left vacant in the middle of the town, 
."for a public square, Avhere several important roads meet, 
and which it is intended to ornament with public edi- 
fices. A walk has also been laid out on the brow of the 
hill towards the Lake. This is called the Terrace, and 
affords a charming view upon the Lake, the harbour and 
the Canal to Black Rock. 

The harbour of Buffalo is singularly fitted by nature 
for the junction of the two kinds of navigation which 
are here brought together ; the entrance fronl the Lake 
; being sheltered by the point on which the light-house is 
■ erected, and the two small rivers which here unite their 
waters, affording every convenience for landing and 
reshipping goods. The shores of these are veiy bold, 
and they are connected by a natural channel, which 
.>:erves the purposes of a basin, as well as of an easy com- 



m^:% 



UO THE NORTHERN 

OTunicatioii ; and as the canal to Black Rock commen- 
ces close by it, the inland transportation begins without 
more ado. 

The Canal to Black Rock is dug near the shore of the 
Lake. The first part of it is through a low, sandy level 
where the excavations were much impeded by the water 
which soaked through ia great abundance. About half 
a mile from Buffalo the workmen hit upon a bed of old 
half decayed trees, which was dug into to the depth of 
six feet, and extended about half a mile. Many branch- 
es and logs were discovered which preserved all the 
grain of the wood, but the greater part was a black mass 
of matter, which, on being dried, burned with great 
readiness. In some places ashes and coals were found; 
and some of the logs appeared to have been washed and 
rolled by the water of the lake before they were buried. 
Beyond this place is a bed of silicious rock, which re- 
quired much labour and expense in cutting andblasting 
through it. 



VOYAGE UP LAKE ERIE. 

At Buffalo opens a very extensive route, for those who 
are disposed to travel still farther westward. There is 
little to be seen along either shore of the Lake, which 
would reward a common traveller for the tedium of a 
long ride over a country generally level, or for the in- 
conveniences he would experience from the want of 
public accommodations, and even the frequent absence 
of settlements. The only mode of travelling therefore 
is by water ; and great numbers of passengers pass every 
season between this port and the principal towns on the 
Lake, chiefly in the Steam-Boat Superior, Capt. R. 
Bunker, which continually plies between this port and 
Detroit, duringtho^e months of the year when the Lake 
is navigable. It is of sufficient size to offer excellent ac- 
commodations; the principal cabin being unusually 
large and convenient, and the forward cabin being fit- 
ted up for families removing westward. The price of a 
passage to Detroit in the first is $15, and in the latter, 
where nothing is supplied but ship room and access to 
the kitchen, half price. Another steam boat is to be 



w 




TRAVELLER. lil 

rompleted by the same company in 1S25, to perform 
the same voyage ; and an opposition boat is to run from 
Black Rock, so that the facilities to travellers will be 
still further encreased. The following are the stopping 
places on the passage to Detroit, with their distances. 

From Buffalo - - - - to Erie, - - - 90 miles, 

,, Erie to Grand River, 75 ,, 

., Grand River - - to Cleaveland, - 30 ,, 

,, Cleaveland - - - to Sandusky, - - 60 ,, 

., Sandusky - - - to Detroit, - - 75 „ 

Total 330 

Green Bay, on Lake Huron, is interesting as a posi- 
'ion occupied by a military garrison, and the seat of a 
large number of Indians, for whose improvement some 
exertions have been recently made. The principal 
tribe residing there is the Menominie, or Wild Rice 
Indians, who are both numerous and powerful and 
as yet uncivilized ; but they have recently received 
an addition to their numbers by having been joined 
by the remnant of the Stockbridge tribe, to whom 
they have offered a share of their land. The latter are 
civilized in such a degree as to have pretty good farms, 
and to practice some of the mechanic arts, though they 
principally depend on hunting and fishing, particularly 
the latter, which is very important to them. There is 
some danger of difficulty arising here however ; for the 
Stockbridge Indians have sent an invitation to the Onei- 
das, in the state of New- York, with whom, as has been 
noticed before, they have resided on the most friendly 
terms for many years, to go and live with them ; but as 
this nation and the Menominies have long cherished an 
ancient grudge, thei'e is some fear of broils and blood- 
shed, in case they should determine to accept of it. 



Ancient Fortifications, 

On Buffalo Creek, and towards Genesee River also, are 
several large and interesting remnants of Ancient Forti- 
fications ; but as they lie off the road, few travellers will 
visit them. They appear to form part of a great chain 



62 THE NORTHERN 

of defensive works extending from the eastern part of 
Lake Ontario, along that Lake and Erie, down the 
Ohio and Missipppi rivers to Mexico. This is the 
opinion of Mr. Atwater, of Circleville, Ohio, who has 
published some very interesting details, drawings he. 
connected with them, in his " Archaeologia Americana." 
A line of old forts extends from Cataraugus Creek, 50 m. 
along the shore of Lake Erie, to the line of Pennsyl- 
vania. They are on the borders of creeks and old bays, 
although now from 2 to 5 miles distant from the Lake, 
which is supposed to have retired that distance since 
they were built. Another similar line is said to exist in 
the rear of them, on another parallel elevation. 

Much curiosity and speculation have been called forth 
by these singular monuments of antiquity — Some regard 
them as marks of a civilized people ; others as the works 
of Indian tribes. Some traces of a tradition relating to 
them are said to have been lately discovered. 

Seneca Castle. The Seneca Nation possess a large 
and valuable tract of land adjoining Buffalo on the east, 
and they have two villages 3 and 5 miles on the road. 
The Senecasare the westernmost tribe in the confedera- 
cy of the Five Nations, and have always hel d a conspicu- 
ous rank in their history. They were formerly consider- 
ed the most numerous and powerful tribe, and preserved 
this superiority until the fatal defeat they received from 
Gen. Schuyler near Canandaigua, in 1778, since which 
they have made a less conspicuous figure. 

The residence of this nation after they fled from Cana- 
da, before their enemies the Arondiacs, was principally 
upon the shores of Seneca Lake, though their lands ex- 
tended to Niagara River and north of Lake Erie, of 
which they long had the command. They are now re- 
duced to a few hundred, some of them residing here and 
some in other Indian villages further east. Besides the 
land they possess, which is remarkable for its fertility, 
the nation are in possession of a large sum in the 
"United States bank stock, the dividend for which they 
receive annually. 

The most remarkable persons of the Seneca nation 
now living, is the famous Red Jacket, who inhabits a 
small log hoii^e, in a very retired situation, about foiu' 



traveller: 63 

miles from Buffalo, and one mile north of the road 
through the reservation. He has rendered himself con- 
spicuous for many years by his eloquence, and formerly 
possessed an extensive influence over his countrj'men. 
But he is now old and poor, and worse still, not too tem- 
perate. He has always maintained a resolute opposition 
to the introduction of the christian religion among his 
nation, and has recently succeeded in excluding all 
ministers from entering the reservation. This was done 
by the authority of the state under a regulation intended 
to guard against the admission of ill disposed persons^ 
who are always found ready to impose upon the Indians, 
get them in their power and endeavour, by fomenting 
uneasiness, as well as by threats and promises, to induce 
them to remove and leave their lands. 

Billy is another very old man of the tribe, and of a 
character very different from that of Red Jacket. He is 
a good orator, but his realworthas well as his influence, 
depends on the more substantial qualities of a sincere 
and consistent christian. His example and the instruc- 
tions for some time enjoyed in the nation, have pro- 
duced great effects on a portion of the families. The 
traveller will observe several farms under a degree of 
cultivation, and may meet with individuals who con- 
form pretty nearly to the English style of dress and have 
introduced some of our customs into their houses. The 
greater part of them however speak no language but 
Indian. 



Stage Road from Buffalo to Canandaigua, 

The first few miles of this road present very little inter- 
est, 15 or 20 miles of it pass over an old causey of logs, and 
the country for that distance is a forest, with hardly any 
signs of inhabitants. The logs make the travelling rough 
and disagreeable ; but as they are gradually covered 
over with earth, the difficulties are lessening every year. 
To those who are not accustomed to a countiy so new 
and wild as this, a Avord or two may not be amiss on 
the manner in which roads are first made in an Ameri- 
can settlement. In thick forests, the surface of the 
j^i-ouqd b covejed to the depth of one or two feet, with 



(>4 THE NORTHERN 

the roots of trees, which are extremely difficult to be re- 
inovcd, and are very dangerous for horses or oxen to 
pass over. A close layer of logs, although itself sufficient- 
ly rough, forms a much safer and more convenient path, 
and is usually adopted with great advantage. There is 
another reason for it — the elevatiou of the road above 
the common surface, secures it from being overflowed 
by the water, which in the moist seasons of the year 
would impede the travelling in low and marshy places. 
When the logs decay, they are apt to form bad ruts and 
holes, which should be filled with earth or gravel. In- 
deed the usual practice is, as the road becomes more 
travelled, and the inhabitants increase, to cover it all 
with a thick bed of earth ; and roads thus formed are 
proverbial for their excellence. 

BATAVIA, 40 miles from Buffalo, is a very handsome 
village, and contains the residence of Mr. Otto, the 
Agent of the Holland-Land Company, as well as the 
county buildings, and the house of Mr. Elliot, the form- 
er agent of the above mentioned company. 

At LEROY, 10 miles, a number of curious stones 
were discovered, in 1824, which were at first supposed 
to h& petrified Sea Turtles. They were found in the bed 
of Allen's creek about 20O yards north of the village 
bridge, and usually weighed from one to three or four 
hundred pounds, although some have been picked up 
in another place in the neighbourhood, not much 
larger than a man's hand. Several were found imbed- 
ded in the lime stone rock through which the stream 
has cut its way, lying horizontally, yet evidently of an 
older formation. They consist of a dark coloured bitu- 
minous lime stone, which readily splits in the middle, 
and betrays a number of whitish crystalline veins tra- 
versing each other nearly at right angles, and growing 
thicker in the m ddle, and often containing a quantity 
of yellow clay, or ochre, with a few holes filled with a 
bituminous oily substance which flows out. These 
stones are certainly very curious specimens^ but the 
original theory is not likely to be received. 

The Wadsworth Farm at Geneseo is so far and so 
justly famed for its size aadfertility and still more for the 
admirable system of cultivation uader which it is carried 



TRAVELLER. 65 

on, that every man of taste who passes this way, will 
lind great gratification in stopping to see it, particularly 
if he is personally interested in the improvement of 
agriculture. 

Mr. Wadworth's farm contains about 4000 acres, about 
1700 of which are rich alluvial land on the banks of the 
Genesee river. He combines science with practical 
knowledge in the management of it in such a manner 
as to enjoy the proper benefits of both ; while he studies 
to introduce all valuable improvements, he is careful to 
preserve every method which exj-erience has proved 
really valuable. Time is here most systematically divided, 
and labour is carefully saved in eveiy case where an iu- 
genious machine or a wise expedient can be resoi ted to 
v.'ith advantage. Various branches of agriculture have 
been tried on this fertile tract of country ; but the 
raising of sheep has been found the most profitable, and 
the farm has been almost converted into mowing fields, 
and pastures. 

The residence of the proprietor is in a fine and spa- 
cious building, in a commanding situation; and the 
whole aspect of the farm indicat'^^s the good order and 
method with which it is conducted. 

The Genesee meadoAvs were formerly the residence 
of a large tribe of Indians of the Seneca nation ; and 
when Gen. Sullivan reached this place in his march 
through the country, he found a considerable village of 
log houses on the second bank, Avhich had been desert- 
ed at his approach. A large tract of fine land adjoin- 
ing the Wadsworth farm, is now possessed by a woman 
belonging to the Seneca nation. She is called " the In- 
dian White Woman,'' as she was taken prisoner from 
some frontier settlement, many years ago, when she 
was very young, adopted by the savages, and married to 
a Chief of the tribe. 

West Bloomfield, beyond the Genesee river, is one 
of the finest agricultural townships in the state, and pre- 
sents a succession of beatiful farms, tilled with care and 
yielding the finest crops. Fruit thrives remarkable 
well in all this western country, as the slightest atten- 
tion to the orchards will sufficiently prove ; and while 
in smoothness and neatness the fields rival of theso the 
F2 



(>♦> THE NORTHERN 

oldest districts farther east, the orchards exceeed them 
in luxuriance and products. The Black Apple is a spe- 
cies of fruit which has been said to be peculiar to this 
region. The darness and peculiarity of its colour are 
sufficient to distinguish it at a considerable distance ; and 
the flavour is fine, slthou^rh it does not arrive at maturi- 
ty until it has been kept some weeks in the winter. 

East Bloomfield is the next village ; and the general 
remarks just made may with justice be applied to this 
place also. 



CANANDAIGUA. 

Inn. Blossom's stage house. This is one of the finest 
of the western towns and its principal street runs along 
the ridge of a commanding hill, rising from the north 
end of Canandaigua Lake. It is wide and contains many 
large and handsome houses, particularly that of the late 
Gideon Granger. It is to be regretted, when the fine 
appearance of this town is considered, that it should not 
have been built nearer the lake, and on some of tliose 
fine elevations which overlook this beautiful sheet of 
water. The road in passing Canandaigua Lake, com- 
mands a finer view of scenery than on any of the other 
lakes it passes. The banks are high and variegated and 
at the distance of two or three miles, rise to an imposing 
height, and add a great degree of beauty to the scene. A 
number of gentlemen's seats are seen along the western 
bank ; and a little way off in the lake on the same, is a 
small rocky island, where the Seneca Indians carried ail 
their women, children and old men, when Gen. Sullivan 
appeared against them. They took position themselves 
in a fort two or three miles northerly from the lake,whence 
they were driven by their civilized enemies. 

For the stage road to Rochester, see Index. 

BURNING SPRINGS. 

Springs of water charged with inflammable gas are quite 
common in the vicinity of this place. The following 
description of them is extracted from an account publish- 
ed in a Canandaigua newspaper, in Feb. 1825. 



m 



w 



r90t'A.\n?qiv<»7 



y^' 



o'-i : 



^ '■■ .^.^'^i^^^e 



ck 



I'' 



N 



1^ 



3 f 



r/j / 



€01 



oJvjFHI''; o 



'</i? 



f/rVAcv 



JVcrth 



O S \\- E GO 




TRAVELLER. &i 

•'These Springs are found in Bristol, Middlesex, and 
Canandaigua. 

The former are situated in a ravine on the Avest side 
of Bristol Hollow, about half a mile from the North 
Presbyterian Meeting House. The ravine is formed in 
clay slate, and a small brook runs through it. The gas 
rises through fissures of the slate, from both the margin 
and the bed of the brook. Where it rises through the 
water, it is formed into bubbles, and flashes only when 
the flame is applied ; but where it rises directly from th6 
rock, it burns with a steady and beautiful flame, which 
continues until extinguished by storms, or by design. 

The springs in Middlesex are situated from one to two 
miles Southwesterly from the village of Rushville, along 
a tract nearly a mile in length, partly at the bottom of 
thfe valley called Federal Hollow, and partly at an ele- 
vation of 40 or 50 feet on the South side of it. 

The latter have been discovered within a few years, 
in a field which had been long cleared, and are very nu- 
merous. Their places are known by little hillocks of a 
few feet in diameter, and a few inches high, formed of a 
dark bituminous mouW, which seems principally to have 
been deposited by the gas, and through which it finds its 
way to the surface, in one or more currents. These 
currents of gas may be set on fire, and will burn with a 
steady flame. In winter they form openings through 
the snow, and being set on fire, exhibit the novel and in- 
teresting phenomenon of a steady and lively flame in. 
contact with nothing but snow. In very cold weather, 
it is said, tubes of ice are formed round these currents of 
gas, (probably from the freezing of the water contained 
in it,) which sometimes rise to the height of two or three 
feet, the gas issuing from their tops ; the whole when 
lighted in a still evening, presenting an appearance even 
more beautiful than the former. 

Within a few days, the proprietors of this field have 
put into operation a plan for applying the gas to econo- 
mical purposes. From a pit which was sunk in one of 
the hillocks, the gas is conducted through bored logs, 
to the kitchen of the dwelling, and rises through an aper- 
ture a little more than half an inch in diameter, in the 
door of a small cooking stove. When inflamed, the 



68 THE iNOUTUER.N 

mixture of gas and common air in tlic f^tove first ex- 
plodes, and then the stream burns steadily. The heat 
involved is considerable ; so that even this small supply. 
s said to be sufficient for cooking. In another part of 
the room, a stream of the gas, from an orifice ojie eighth 
of an inch in diameter, h kindled in the evening, and af- 
fords the light of two or three candles. The novelty of 
the spectacle attracts a concourse of visitors so great, 
that the proprietors have found it expedient to convert 
their dwelling into a public inn. 

The springs in the town of Canandaigua are situated 
on both sides of the lake, within three miles of the vil- 
lage. They have not been particularly examined. 

Experiments made with the gas seem to prove, that it 
consists principally of a mixture of the light and heavy 
carburetted hydrogen gases, the former having greatly 
the preponderance ; and that it contains a small propor- 
tion of carbonic acid gas. It seems also to hold a little 
oily or bituminous matter in solution. It burns with a 
lambent, yellowish flame, scarcely inclining to red, 
with small scintillations of a bright red at its base. It 
lias the odour of pit coal. It produces no smoke, but 
deposits, wliilc burning, a small quantity of bituminous 
lampblack. It is remarkable that the hillocks, through 
Avhich the gas rises, are totally destitute of vegetation. 
Whether the gas is directly deleterious to vegetable life, 
or indirectly, by interrupting the contact of the air of 
the atmosphere, it is certain that no plant can sustaht 
life within the circle of ils influence. 

It is well known that this gas is found abundantly in 
coal mines ; and being accidently set on fire, (mixed as 
it is in those mines with the air of the atmosphere,) has 
many times caused terrible and destructive explosions. 
The writer cannot learn that it has ever been known to 
be generated in the earth, except in the presence of 
coal ; and hence the inference is strong, that it proceeds 
J'rom coal. If we add to this the fact, that there is no 
substance in the earth, except coal and other vegetable 
and animal remains, from which, by any known natu- 
ral process, the elements of the gas could be obtained, 
rhe woof almost amounts to demonstration. The oily 



TRAVELLER. 69 

deposite which has been mentioned, may be considered 
as a further proof of the correctness of the inference. 

The Road betweeen Canandaigfua and Geneva passes 
over a sLuguiar tract of coimtry, the form of which will 
not fail to be remarked by an observant traveller. The 
distance is 26 miles ; and the ground gradually rises by 
large natural terraces, or steps, for about half the distance, 
and descends in the same manner on the other side to 
Seneca Lake. These steps or ten-aces appear to have 
been formed by those strong currents of water of which 
geologists speak, wliich at some ancient period of the 
world have evidently passed over many tracts of country 
in different parts of the world. The ridges and channels 
thus formed here stretch north and south, frequently to a 
considerable distance, corresponding both in form and di- 
rection with the numerous lakes which are found in this 
part of the state. Several ancient fortifications have 
been traced here. From the middle ridge the view is 
extensive ; but the surrounding country is of too uniform 
a surface to present any remarkable variety of scenery. 
The form adapts it peculiarly to agriculture, indeed, did 
the soil but correspond in richness, the whole scene would 
be peculiarly delightful in an agricultural point of view. 

GEiNEVA. 
This town occupies a charming situation at the head 
of Seneca Lake, and for a mile along its western bank, 
which rises to a considerable elevation above the surface, 
and affords room for a broad and level street. The build- 
ings in tliis village are remarkably neat and handsome. 
It contains one ot the most comfortable inns in the state, 
kept by Mr. Lynch. 

Seneca Lake, 

is 35 miles long, and about 3 or 4 wide. Its depth is un- 
usually great, and the water clear and very cold, to 
which is referred the scarcity of fish. There is a re- 
markable phenomenon long obberved by those who re- 
side near it, which has never been satisfactorily account- 
ed for. The water has a regular rise and fall every seven 
years. This is perceptible along the shore^ but more 



:() THE NORTHERN 

practically established in the experience of the boatmen, 
who are accustomed to conduct boats through the Sene- 
ca river, to the canal, as they formerly did to Oneida 
Lake, and down the Mohawk river. 

The land on the borders of Seneca Lake is valuable 
for many miles, and is inhabited by a mixed population 
from New Jersey, Maryland, &ic. with a number of 
English families. Towards the southern end of th© 
Lake, the soil changes for the worse ; but in a few years 
the productions of these shores may be expected to form 
a much more important figure than they do at present, 
among the vast amount of transports that annually flow 
down the great Canal. 

A stage-coach runs from Geneva down the west side 
of the lake, and then crosses to the head of Cayuga 
Lake, to the village of Ithaca ; but the road is not inter- 
esting, and the more agreeable mode of reaching that 
village is by taking the steam-boat at Cayuga bridge 14 
miles from Geneva, on the great mail route. 

Caygua Lake is 40 miles iu length, and generally 
about 2 in breadth. Its water is shallow, the depth beins: 
only r few feet. A fine bridge is built across it near the 
Aioyiern end, where it is a mile wide. 

The Steam Boat Exferimp.nt 

Plies between Cayuga Bridge and Ithaca, at the head 
of the lake, in such a manner as to meet the stage coaches 
on the new route from Ithaca to New York, returning the 
same days. It is small and frequently used to tow canal 
boats on the lake ; but it is large enough to accommodate 
a considerable number of passengers, and is frequently 
crowded with parties from the neighbouring country, as 
well «s travellers, as the excursion is one of the pleasant- 
est that can be taken in this part of the state. It also 
connects several important lines of stage-coaches, which 
the traveller will do well to notice if he wishes to go to 
Catskill^ Newhurg^ New York or J^ew Jersey by the most 
direct route. These routes will be more particularly 
noticed on arriving at Ithaca. 



TRAVELLEK. 11 

i'he price of a passage in the steam boat is one dollar ; 
and the scenes brought to view in passing along are some- 
times inviting although the shores are generally too mon- 
otonous and of too little elevation to aiford any striking 
features. A little before arriving at the head of the lake, a 
beautiful Waterfall is seen on the left hand, where a stream 
of water flows over a very high precipice into a deep glen, 
and forces its way along, turning several valuable mills 
in its course. The landing place is about three miles 
from the village of Ithaca, but lumber boats can pass the 
bar at the mouth of the inlet, and proceed up to the 
street. 

The village of Ithaca is neat and flourishing. Here 
center three roads to CatskiU, Newhurgh and JVcw Yorl\ 
The first leads nearly in a direct line to the Hudson river, 
the second passes the Great Bend of the Delaware, and 
the third furnishes daily the shortest route to New York, 

The Cascade* 

This beautiful and romantic scene already spoken of 
is about 3 miles from the village, and should by no means 
be left unseen. The waterfall is one of the most pictures- 
que that can be imagined. The height and solemnity of 
the surrounding rocks, the darkness of their shadows and 
the beauty of the sparkling spray, unite to produce an im- 
pression of pleasure which is rarely experienced at the 
sight of any scene, however extraordinary for beauty or 
sublimity. 

Great quantities of Plaster of Paris, (Sulphate of Lime) 
are transported from this neighbourhood to different parts 
of the country. Grain, lumber, &c. are also sent dowa 
the lake and towaixls the south by the Schylkill river. 

This is near the dividing line between the waters which 
flow in the two directions. 

The astonishing' success which has accompanied the 
enterprising spirit of the state in forming the Grand Ca- 
nal, has acted as a powerful stimulus in different parts of 
the country, and numerous works of the same kind have 
in consequence been proposed east, west and south. 
Many of these have been found impractiQ^ble, and a large 



72 THE NORTHERN 

part of those which may hereafter be carried iato execu- 
tion, relate to regions removed beyond the sphere of a 
work of so local a character as this little book. In this 
neighbourhood however there have been several plans of 
this description, which it would be improper to pass 
over without notice, although they have been so recently 
formed, that their practicabilityis not in every case fully 
ascertained. One of the most important is a 

Canal from the Cayuga Lake to the Schuylkill River^ 
Which approaches very near each other. 

. The Draining of the Cayuga Marshes. 

The following facts are extracted from the report 
made to the Legislature in January 1825, by Mr. Thomas, 
who had been appointed by the Canal Board to survey 
the regions about Cayuga Lake. It will be observed 
that a two fold object is proposed by this scheme : and 
that it is intended to improve the navigation between 
the Lake and the Canal, as well as to rescue a large tract 
of valuable land from the water. 

These extensive tracts may be rendered arable, by 
lowering the surface of the Seneca river 2 feet, at the 
foot of the Cayuga Lake. It would be desirable, in- 
deed, to confine the extraordinary floods of the river, 
within its proper channel, 'ut the disproportionate Jin- 
crease of expense, leaves it doutful, whether a greater 
reduction would be judicious at this time. 

To effect the proposed object, the surface should be 
lowered 3 feet at the head of Jack's reefs ; above which 
place, the river consists of long deep pools, separated 
by d few bars of diluvial matter. Of these bars, the 
principal are at the foot of the Cayuga Lake ; at Martin's 
rapids (2 miles below), and at Musqueto Point, where 
the descent of the surface at a medial height of the river^ 
is 2 inches and 20 chains. 

If the back water be drawji off from the first of these 
rapids, it is evident that the current, issuing froma great- 
er head, will diminish in volume over the bar as the 
velocity increases, and that the depression of the surface, 
will extend upwards to the next rapid ; and though tlie 



TRAVELLER. 73 

tjfiect will successfully decrease as it extends, only mode- 
rate excavations at those bars, will be required to obtain 
the proposed reduction at the Cayu^ Lake. 

At Jack's reefs the river is 160 yai'ds v/ide, and descends 
6 feet in 137 chains. The upper bar, about 80 rods io 
length, consists chiefly of gravel and rounded stones, over 
which the water falls 18 inches, into a pool from 5 to 7 
feet deep, of nearly the same extent. Near the lower 
end of this pool, the soft whitish limestone, which forms 
the bed of the river downwards for 2 miles, first appears ; 
and may be easily excavated without blasting. 

To discharge the river through these obstructions, it is 
proposed to excavate a channel 30 yards wide, commenc- 
ing where the surface is 6 feet lower than it is at the head 
of the rapids, and operating upwards on a horizontal bot- 
tom. The estimate for this work, including the bars 
up the river is $125,000. 

This estimate has not been made without much de- 
liberation. In addition to the expense of constructing 
coffer dams, arises the difficulty of disposing of the stuff 
to be excavated ; for no part ought to be left on the pre- 
sent bed of the river, to obstruct the discharge of floods, 
or to embarrass any future attempts to enlarge the chan- 
nel. A great part of this work must be done opposite to 
high banks, and the distance to deep water, into which. 
it might be dropped, is very considerable. 

At the 4th lock it is proposed to assume a new level, 
and extend an independent canal from the guard gates 
down the shore of the outlet, 2 miles 29 chains, to De- 
inonfs bridge : and thence either northwardly 4 miles to 
the Erie canal, at Brockway's point, or eastwardly 1 mile 
and 20 chains, across the swamp to the Seueca river, pass 
it on a wooden aqueduct, 28 rods long, near the lower 
Cayuga bridge, and thence 5 miles to Montezuma. To 
the reasons already given in favour of a canal, it is proper 
to add, that the channel of the Seneca river is too irregu- 
lar for the construction of a tow-path on its side, at any 
moderate expense. 

The eastern route would afford the most convenient 
navigation, as boats might pass without the interruption 
G 



74 THE NORTHERN 

of a lock from 1 mile east of Montezuma to Seneca falls ; 
and the Seneca outlet would be an ample feeder. To 
facilitate the communication with the Cayugra lake, it is 
proposed to continue a side cut 1 mile and 68 chains, to 
East Cayuga, where a lock of 10 feet lift would be pro- 
per. Unless the surface of the Seneca river be lowered, 
however, there would be scarcely suificient water way 
under the aqueduct. 

The notherti route is calculated on a level 2 feet 8 inch- 
es lower, and would also be fed from the Seneca outlet. 
At Demont's, a lock of 7 feet lift, and a tow-path down 
the outlet, would be necessary to extend the navigation 
to the Cayuga lake, and the bar at the moutli of the out- 
let must be removed. On the south bank of the Canan- 
daigua outlet, near Brockway's Point, a lock of 8 feet 
lift will be required, and another of 4 feet lift on the north 
bank, to unite with the Erie canal ; for the want of u;ff;er 
way precludes the plan of a wooden aqueduct. The lifts 
of all those locks are increased, on account of draining the 
Cayuga marshes ; and the calculations have been made 
with a view to the unfavourable sites for the foundations. 
The estimates for the Eastern Route are $'71, 125 

Those for the Nothern, 44,185 

The whole estimate from the canal at Seneca lake to 
Brockway's Point, (being the least expensive route,) is 
$89,948. 

In relation to the marshes near the Seneca lake. To 
i'eclaim these tracts, it will be necessary to lower the 
sui'face of the lake 3 feet. The advantage would be si- 
milar to that of draining the Cayuga marshes — a district 
redeemed from desolation. The canal derives its value 
from the commerce that floats on its waters ; and every 
addition to the surplus products of the land, wl^ether ob- 
tained by reclaiming marshes, and expelling the voracious 
birds that prey on the harvest, or by restoring health to 
the farmer, will encrease the revenue. 

But it is to be regretted, that so important a work has 
been delayed until mill seats have been improved, and 
docks and wharves constructed for the present level of tlie 
lake, and the damages that would ensue to these proprie- 
tors, may probably be a subject of future enquiry. 



TRAVELLER. 1o 

AUBURN, 

is another beautiful village, and merits the name it has 
borrowed from Goldsmith's charming poetry. It is un- 
fortunately placed at some distance from Owasco Lake, 
and therefore is deprived of the picturesque character 
which it might have enjoyed. There are several hand- 
some public buildings in this place, but the most impor- 
tant is the 

State Prison. 

This institution having been for two or three years 
managed by Mr. Lynds, on a system in some respects, 
it is thought, new, and with remarkable success, merits 
particular notice. The following statements are ex- 
tracted from the Report made to the Legislature in Feb- 
ruary, 1825, and furnish a comparative view of the pris- 
ons at Auburn and New-York city. 

" The Auburn prison was built in 1817, and cost pro- 
bably $300,000 ; it is constructed upon the plan of a hol- 
low square, enclosed by a wall of 2000 feet in extent, 
being 500 feet on each side, and, for the most part, 35 
feet in height. The north wing of the building differs 
very much in its construction from any building of the 
kind, and the use of which is conceived to be one of the 
greatest improvements in prisons, and one of the best 
aids to prison discipline, which has been any where 
made. The workshops are built against the inside of 
the outer wall, fronting towards the yard, from which 
eveiy shop is visible, forming a continued range of 940 
feet. With such alterations as it may undergo, it can be 
made to hold 1100 convicts. 

" The prison at New-York was begun in 1796, and is 
believed to have cost $300,000. ' The whole of this 
edifice, (say the committee,) is illy adapted to the pur- 
poses intended ; and unless the state will authorize an 
alteration of the interior, or will erect another upon a 
more improved plan, we may look in vain for the re- 
sults so anxiously anticipated by the friends of the peni- 
f entiary system.' 

''The expenditures at the Auburn prison are pro- 



7§ THE NORTHERN 

nounccd to Lave been neither wasteful nor improper. 
The number of convicts in 1823, was 300 ; the gross ex- 
pense of the prison $20,589, the earnings of the prison- 
ers |9,807, net expense to the public |10,78l, and net 
expense for each convict during the year ^34 78. The 
gross expense of the prison at New- York for the year, 
was ^55,792, the earnings of the prisoners |33,316, the 
number of convicts 608, the gross cost for each $91 67, 
and the net cost $22 67. The finances of this prison, ancl 
indeed of both, are in a progressive state of improvement. 
Of the government 1 rules and discipline of the two pri- 
sons, and the comparative efficacy of the respective systems 
ftdopted in each. — In all these respects, a decided prefer- 
ence is given to the prison at Auburn ; indeed from the 
minute description given, a better governed institution 
can scarcely be. " The correct discipline observed in this 
prison (say the committee,) only requires to be seen, to 
be duly appreciated. The conduct of the prisoners while 
at their labour, and their quietness under the privations of 
the prison, prove, that the discipline is complete and eflfec- 
tive ; and the main cause of the order and decorum thus 
observed, is, that in all matters of dicipline, there is but 
one head or principal. The inspectors of this prison, 
have resigned to the principal keeper, Mr. Lynds, the 
discretionary power of directing and controling the dis- 
cipline and punishment of the convicts, and the conduct, 
deportment and duty of the assistant-keepers. This 
measure of the inspectors is both wise and judicious, and 
has produced throughout the establishment the most hap- 
py results ; and the gentleman in whom this confidence 
is placed, is in every respect worthy of it; for4ie is a man 
eminently qualified for the station he occupies \ possesses 
more than common talents and firmness as a disciplina- 
rian; appears to devote his whole mind to the duties of 
his office, and has a taste for order, neatness and regular- 
ity, seldom surpassed." The errors and evils of the New- 
York prison are mentioned with such qualifying and mit- 
igating circumstances, as exist in the fact that it was one 
of the first establishments of the kind in America ; tliat it 
was an experiment, attempted when the principles for the 
government of such an institution, and the proper mode 



TRAVELLEK. TT 

of construction, were unknown, and when the state of the 
public opinion was unfavourable to discipline or to judi- 
cious punishment. The committee conclude, with a 
series of illustrative examples of the evils in the manage- 
ment of the prison, the paramount one of which is the 
utter want of vigourous and effective discipline, and 
the others of which are, that the restraint and labour are 
too little, that the order is imperfect, and that the indul- 
gences which are obtained for the prisoners, witli and 
without permission, are often utterly subversive of dis- 
cipline, and inconsistent with a state of punishment. 

Minute observations on the comparative labour of a 
free person and a convict show that the latter does not 
accomplish as much in a day as the former ; and that the 
New- York prison, with no better employment than is 
now provided, cannot pay much more than one half of 
the cost of its support. In the year 1823, the balance 
against the New York prison was $18,633 ; and that 
against the Auburn prison $10,780. The committee state 
that the kind of work proper for a state prison should 
unite the following properties : That the demand should 
be great, the material cheap, the trade easily learned, 
a business which cannot be so conducted by machinery 
as to reduce the wages too low, and a trade in which 
hard work can be enforced and made the more profitable. 
As a trade which fulfils these conditions the committee 
recommend in relation to the New-York prison, the cut- 
ting of stone for building ; and they present a series of 
calculations in support of the position. — Under the gene- 
ral head of economy, they also recommend in this prison, 
savings in the annual expenditure, to the amount of 
$6004, and an increase as regards the Auburn prison of 
$623. 

The pardoning power ought to be exercised with great 
caution by the executive ; for perhaps no circumstance 
has so much contributed to do away the terrors of pim- 
ishment as the facilities afforded the worst part of our 
species in obtaining a pardon. Many of these persons are 
induced to continue their evil courses, from a calcula- 
tion of the chances in their favour. — " If this system 
must continue to operate, to the extent demonstrated bv 
G2 



^8 THE NORTHERN 

the foregoing tables, the reformation of offenders, or the 
reduction of crimes, may in vain be expected ; for the 
worst and most artful villains are generally most success- 
ful in imposition, and who, through the pecuniary means 
at their command, procured, perhaps, by their felonies, 
are enabled to draw to their interest , such as are ready 
«n all occasions to exert their talents, ingenuity and in-- 
fiuence, in favour of obtaining their pardon." 

The committee express their unanimous and decided 
©pinion, after a full exhibition of the advantages and 
disadvantages of such a course, that a new state-prison 
should be built, in some situation where an abundant 
supply of stone proper to be wrought, may be had, and 
en navigable water affording an easy water commu- 
nication with the city of New- York." The entire ex- 
pense of building a prison of 800 cells, upon a marble 
quarry, on the plan of the Auburn prison, is estimated at 
.f 62,571 20. The indispensable alterations to the old 
prison are estimated at ^'40,000 ; the old prison, without 
alterations, it is presumed would sell for $45,000 ; which 
will leave a saving to the state, (aside from purchasing a 
new site and transporting the convicts,) between the al- 
teration of the old prison and what it may sell for, and 
the building of a new prison, of $22,429 80. 

Tlie proposed alterations of the laics respecting the 
state-prisons. — An act for that purpose. 

Ancient Fortifications. There are some remains of 
ancient fortifications in the vicinity of this place, as well 
as in the neighbouring towns of Camillus, Onondaga and 
Fompey. 

If tlie traveller should wish to take the canal, a stage 
coach goes every day to Weed's Basin, 8 miles and car- 
ries passengers for 50 cents, to meet tlifi canal boats, 
which pass at stated periods. 

FROM AUBURN TO SYRACUSE, 

By the Canalj 34 miles. 
(Stage coach to Weed's Basin,) 8 ni> 

Jordon Village, in Camillus township, 6 

Canton, (half-way village between Buffalo ziitd 



TRAVELLEK. 1$ 

Albany, 179 m. from the former and 183 from 
the latter,) 6 

Geddes Village, (with salt-works,) 12 

Syracuse, 3 

By the Roati, 28 miles. 

Skaneateles, 8 m. | Onondaga, 10 m. 

Marcellus, 6 | Syracuse, 4 

Syracuse. For a description of this place, as well 
as of Salina, the Salt Springs and Salt Manufactories^ see 
page 34. 

Although the routes east of Syracuse, both by the Ca- 
nal and by the road, are given in other places, and 
although they may be traced on the maps, it may 
perhaps be com-enient to have them repeated in the 
leversed order, for travellers going towards Albany, 

FROM SYRACUSE TO UTICA. 

By the Canals 60 miles. 
Manlius Landing, 9 m. 

Chitteningo Creek, 8 

(A curious petrrfied tree lies near this place a few 

steps from the canal, which was found with 

many of its branches.) 
Canastota Village and Basin, 8 

Oneida Creek, 5 

Wood Creek, 23 

Rome, 3 

Oriskany Village, 8 

Whitesborough, 3 

Utica, 4 

By the Roadf 48 mile?. 

Derne, :i 

Manlius, 3 

Sullivan, 9 

Oneida Creek, 11 

Vernon > 5 



^0 THE NORTHERN 

Westmoreland, 
New Hartford, 
Utica, 



For Utica, see page 31, for Trenton Falls, and for 
Hamilton College, do. 

Projected Canal. — A plan has been recently 
formed for the construction of a canal from Utica down 
the Unadilla river, to intersect thr Susquehannah at some 
point near the town of Bainbridge, in the county of Che- 
nango. 

FROM UTICA TO SCHENECTADY. 

By the Canal, 79 1-2 miles. 
Lock, No. 53, (end of the long level, which begins 
westward at Salma, and extends to this place, 
69 i mdes without a lock,) 9 m. 

Bridge over the Mohawk, and Herkimer village. 5 
Little Falls, 8 

(This place is worthy to detain the traveller for y, 
day, on account of the romantic scenery presented by 
the lofty banks of the river in its passage through the 
Cattsberg mountains. The aqueduct of the feeding 
canal is a fine piece of work ; and some beautiful crys- 
tals of quartz are found in the neighbourhood.) 
Fall Hill, a mountain on the right, 518 feet high- 
er than the canal, 712 above high water in 
Hudson river, and about 145 above Lake Erie, 1 
Old Mohawk Castle, 5 

Fort Plain, 9 1-2 

Canajoharrie, 4 

(Stage coach hence to Cherry Valley Tuesday and 
Friday.) 
Anthony's Nose, 5 

(This scene is represented in Plate 2nd, from this side. 
The lofty bluff on the right is Anthony's Nose, on the top 
of which a remarkable Cavern opens, extending further 
down than it has ever been explored. It contains several 
large chambers, and may perhaps penetrate to the level 



TRAVELLER, 81 

of the canal. In the plate the Mohawk is represented as 

"winding through the meadows, beyond which is the great 

road to Albany, while on the right, next to the towpath of 

the canal, is a country road running at the foot of the 

mountain.) 

Schoharie Creek, 11 

(The Ferry established across the Schoharie creek 
here, is on a very ingenious plan, and well worthy (rf 
notice. A fine dam built a little below keeps the water 
always at the same level ; and a wheel turned by a 
horse in a building on the eastern bank, moves a rope 
which is stretched double across, and to which the tow 
rope of the boat is fastened. The horses are transported 
in a ferry boat.) 

Amsterdam village, (across the river,) 5 

Flint Hill, 6 

Rotterdam Flats, 8 

Schenectady, 3 

Road to Albany* 15} miles. Numerous coaches g« 
eyery day. 

Road to Ballston and Saratoga. Both tliese 
roads offer the shortest and most expeditious communi* 
cation with the places to which they conduct, and if the 
traveller should be in pressing haste he should avail 
himself of them. 

To travellers of leisure and taste, however, the canal 
boats are recommended to the Mohawk bridge, although 
they are liable to many delays at the numerous locks 
along this difficult but interesting part of the canal. 

FROM SCHENECTADY TO ALBANY. 

By the Canal, 28 i miles. 

Alexander's Brid2:e, (on the turnpike road to Al- 
bany and Ballston,) 4| JKv 

Upper Aqueduct, (on which the canal crosses the 
Mohawk,) ^, 

The Youvs Eniijnecr, a rctk on the right, so c*i- 



S2 THE NORTHERN 

leJ, where the cutting is the deepest ou the 
whole route, 32 feet deep, 4 

WatHoixGap, 5 1-2 

(A natural channel through which the canal is led more 
than 200 yards. The rocks are Grawacke slate. In the 
river is the Wat Hoix Rapid, which the Indians called 
the Evil Spirit, and sometimes the White Horje. 
Lower Aqueduct, 1 1 88 feet long, on which the ca- 
nal crosses the Mohawk again, on 24 stone 
abutments and piers. 
The four Locks, 8 feet each, 2 

Cohoes Falls, 78 feet high, i 

'J'he two Locks, 9 feet each, I 

The three Locks, and the Cohoes Bridge over the 
Mohawk, | 

(Hence to Waterford, on the road to Ballston, Sarato- 
ga, &c. is about a mile and a half, where stage coaches 
are continually passing in the visiting season. By leav- 
ing the boat here, or a little below, where the canal 
meets the road, a seat may frequently be found in a pass- 
ing coach, to Waterford or the Springs ; or, some may pre- 
fer to take a boat on the Northern Canal, which is close 
at hand. We shall take up the land route after giving 
the few remaining objects on the way to Albary, and re- 
ferring the reader to page 19 for a description of that 
city.) 
The Junction, where the Northern Canal, from 

Lake Champlain, meets the Erie Canal, 1-2 

West Troy, 1 

(Here is a cluster of buildings about the basins where 
th© Troy boats lie. The dam across the Mohawk will 
afford an easy communication between the canal and 
Troy, which is seen on the opposite side. A good horse- 
ferry-boat plies below.) 

United States' Arsenal, 1 

The Manor House of Gen. Van Rensselaer, called 

Rensselaer-Wrck, f> 

Albanv, -, 



TRAVELLER. S3* 

ROAD TO THE BATTLE GROUND AND THE 
SPRINGS. 

WATERFORD. 

This village is situated on the west side of the Hudson, 
across which the communication is convenient by means 
of the first bridge we have seen over this river. Lan- 
singburgh stands opposite, and is a place of consider- 
able size, but wearing an aspect of gradual decay. 
The streets of Waterford are wide, regular and hand- 
somely built. Some of the private houses are re- 
markable for their neatness. During the warm season 
of the year, this place is a great thorough-fare, lying on 
two roads to Albany, as well as in the way to both 
Ballston and Saratoga Springs, Lake George, &lc. It is 
21 1-2 miles to Ballslon Springs, and 24 to Saratoga. 

Borough, 8 1-2 miles. This is a little village. 

Mechanicville, 1-4 mile. Here is a Cotton Manu- 
factory and a S age house. 

Stillwater, 3 miles. This place takes its name from 
the smoothness and quiet of the Hudson, which here 
spreads out over a broad surface, and hardly shows any 
appearance of a current. 

This is the place to which Gen. Schuyler retreated at 
the approach of Gen. Burgoyne, after removing all the 
stores, driving a;way the cattle, and throwing all possible 
obstacles in his way; and through this place Gen. Gates 
who soon af^er succeeded him in the command, march- 
ed up froin Halfmoon to take position on Bemis's 
Heights. As we are thus approaching the field where 
their two great armies met in battle, it will be proper to 
indulge in a few reflections on the important results of 
that contest, and to give a brief outline of the events 
Which preceded it. 

In th first place, however, the reader is referred 
to the maps, to observe the importance of the tract 
of countiy which lies along the route we ha e just 
entered u{)on. From Canada to the head of Lake Cham- 
plain *here is an unin.errupted water communication, 
by whi^h troops and eveiy thing necessary to an at my 
may be transported with the utmost facility. A short 
-and carriao:e reaches Lake Georirp. Wood Creek 



U THENORTHER^^ 

at the South end of the former, is navigable in boats to 
Fort Anne, which is only 9 m. distant from Fort Edward, 
on Hudson river, whence the navigation is open to New 
York. Here have consequently been the scenes of the 
most important military operations which have ever been 
carried on in the United States. The first battle within 
this region, of which history gives any account, was 
fought between th - French and the Five Nations of In- 
dians soon after the settlement ot Canada, when the lat- 
ter first learnt the terrible effect of gun-powder, and be- 
gan to flee from the approach of civilization. In the 
numerous expeditions which at subsequent periods were 
undertaken by the British against Canada, this route 
was taken in the attack, and not unfrequently in the re- 
treat. The important events of the war of 1755, were 
almost confined to this region, and the revolution, and 
the last war with England produced scenes which wiU 
be touched upon in their places. 

The first period to which we shall refer, is that of the 
Revolution; and the first scene that of the battle of 
Saratoga, or Bemis's Heights, towards which we are 
fast approaching. 

" I could here" says Dr. Dwight, " almost forget that 
Arnold became a traitor to his country, and satisfy my- 
self with recollecting, that to his invincible gallantry, 
and that of the brave officers and soldiers whom he led, 
my country was, under God, indebted in a prime de- 
gree for her independence, and all its consequent bless- 
ings. I should think that American, peculiarly an in- 
habitant of New-England or New-York, little to be en- 
vied, whose patriotism did not gain force upon the 
heights of Stillwater, or the plains of Saratoga. These 
scenes I have examined ; the former with solemnity and 
awe, the latter with ardour and admiration, and both 
with enthusiasm and rapture. Here I have remember- 
ed ; and here it was impossible not to remember, that 
on this very spot a controversy was decided, upon which 
hung the liberty and happiness of a nation destined one 
day to fill a continent ; and of its descendants, who will 
probably hereafter outnumber tlie inhabitants of Eu- 
.rope^" 



TRAVELLER. gf» 

BURGOYNE'S EXPEDITION. 

Gen. Burgoyne was appointed Governor of Canada 
in 1777, to succeed Sir Guy Carlton. He arrived at 
Quebec in May, and reached Crown Point June 20th. 
Gen. P illips was sent to Ticoideroga with h British 
rightwing; ;.ndt;.e o tpostsandthe fort were success ve- 
ly abandoned by the Americans. Tie news of the 
evacuation of this place, was a most disheai lening piece 
of intellige xe to the cou try. It had b en confidently 
hoped that an effectual r- sista .ce would there be made 
to a force which threat ned the liberty of America ; or 
at all events, tha a heroic stand would be made at that 
important post, which had so long been regarded as an 
almost imp gnable fortress. 

The eal strength and importance of Ticondero- 
ga, proves owever o have been fatally overrated. 
With an oversight which seems truly astonish ng at the 
present day, the neighbour! g mountains had been left 
enti ely unoccupied, alt ough they r se at so short a 
distance as comple eiy to command the fort. General 
Phillips was too skillful a soldier to overlook the advan- 
tages of th coun ry ; and the rising sun of August 16th 
showed his cannon on the summit of Mount Defiance, 
ready to open their fire on the fortress below. Gen. St. 
Clair saw that a 1 hope of maintaining his position was 
entirely lost, and immediately commenced his retreat, 
pursued at no great distance by Gen. Burgoyne. The 
news of St. Clair's retreat spread consternation through- 
out the country. A powerful army containing 6000 
regular troops, and a large b dy of Canadian militia and 
Indians, had now p .ssed the boundarv^ of the country, 
and having got this important j.ss into their possession, 
found the way open before them to Hud on ri er, and 
the force v hich bad been collected to oppose their pro- 
gress, all scattered and flying before them. 

The r ar under Col. Warner was overtaken by Gen. 
Frazer, and after an action forced to fly. Gen. Bur- 
goyne pursued by water, and sent Lieut. Col. Hill on- 
war*.!, who met Col. Long at Battle Hill, and after suf- 
fering much in an engagement of two hours, was rein- 
forced by some Indians, who came up in time to save 
H 



sq the northern. 

him, and to Induce the Americans to retreat. At Hub* 
bartiton the latter "ufFered severely, and lost their stores 
at Skeenesborough, where Burgoyne stopped to make 
arrangements for future operations. D iring his delay, 
Gtn. Schuy er obstructed the chann 1 of Wood Creek, 
removed every thing valuable from the country, and 
took the stores from Fort George to Fort Edward ; send- 
ing for.regular troops, and calling for the militia of 
the neighbouring states, both which were supplied. 
Gen. Arnold and Col. Morgan joined him witli a 1 ody 
of riflemen, and Gen. Lincoln with the New-England 
militia; and he fell back to Saratoga and Stillwater. 

BATTLE OF BENNINGTON. 

While these preparations were making for a general 
engagement, the buttle of Bennington occurred, which 
must now be introluced to preserve the order of time. 
Being in v.ant of provisions, Gen. Burgoyne had des- 
patched Lt. Col. Baum with his Hessians, to sieze the 
public stores at Bennington. He was supported by Lt. 
Col. Brechman, who stopped at Baten Kill. Brig. Gen. 
Stark with the New-Hampshire troops, joined by Col. 
Wearier, attacked Col. Baum at the Wallomsack river, 
where they were encamped, .July 16th, (1777,) and in 
two hours forced their works, and completely defeated 
them. Col. Warner began the attack on Col. Brechman. 
wounded him mortally, and took hiai prisoner, and put 
his troops to flight. 

22t> of the British troops were killed at the battle of 
Bennington, or rather the battle of Hooaa.c, ms it was 
fought in that town. 700 Soldi rs Avere taken prisoners 
and 36ofiicers. 

To return to the principal scene of action. Gen. 
Gates now received the command of ihe American 
troops, which had been gr atly reinforced, and marching 
tliem from the east side oi Hudson river, opposite Half- 
moon, to Still water, on the west side, took a position on 
Bemis's Heights, the scene of the important action soon 
to be described. 



TRAVELLER. &? 

SEMIS'S HEIGHTS. 

A ridge of elevated ground, beginning on the left, 
about a quarter of a mi: e from the river, and str-rtching 
off towards the North west, offered great advantages 
for the defence of the road. 

Gen. Gates' Camp 

Was about half a mile from the road on the left, and 
his quai'ters were in a house which is yet stand ng, al- 
though very old. A bye road leads to the place ; and 
the traveller, if he is able, will find lumself repaid by 
examining the old entrenchments, and afterwards pro- 
ceeding along the heights, whici; were occupied by the 
American troops. He may send his carriage on to 
Smith's tavern, about 3 milc^s on the main road. The 
space between the river and the brow of the hill was 
crossed by a deep entrenchment defended with artillery 
and almost impracticable, 

THE AMERICAN LINES, 

3-4 of a mile long, were furnished with a breast work 
of logs, (the hills being almost entirely a forest,) and 
the left was on a hill opposite the enemy's right. From 
the left almost to the cpntre the ground is evel, and was 
partly cleared, yet much encumbered with f.llen and 
girdled treo^. An opening left of the centre had a bat- 
tery — thence a ravia-^ ran to the right. 

The Americans, as will be seen on a view of the ground, 
had drawn their line towards the river in such a man- 
ner as to present the form of an Indian dear trap ; and 
their armies could hardly hope to escape the toils with- 
out some vi.orous exertion. It will be recollected that 
the expedition under Sir Hen-y Clinton, who proceed- 
ed up Hudson river to Kingston, was intended to co- 
operate with Gen. Burgoyne, but failed to produce the 
effects intended. 



3S THE NORTHERN 

THE BRITISH LINES 

stretched from a hill opposite the American left, in a 
straight line across the plain to the Hudson river. The 
following account of their approach from Lake George is 
from Gen. Wikinson's Memoirs. 

" General Burgoyne crossed the Hudson river the 
13th and 14th of September, and advanced with great 
circumspection on the 15th from Saratoga to Davocote, 
where he halted to repair bridges in his front. The 16th 
was employed on this labour, and in reconnoitering : on 
the 17th he advanced a mile or two, resum d his march 
on the 18th, and General Arnold was detached by Gene- 
ral Gates, with 1500 men, to han ass him ; but after a 
light skirmish, he returned without loss or effecting any 
thing more than picking up a few stragglers : and the 
enemy moved forward and encamped in two lines, about 
two miles from General Gates ; his left on the river, and 
his right extending at right angles to it, across the low 
grounds about si'; hundred yards, to a range of steep 
and lofty heights occupied by his elite, having a cre^k 
or guUey in his front, made by a rivulet which issued 
from a great ravine, formed by the hiLs^which ran in a 
direction nearly parallel to the river, until within half a 
mile of the American camp. 

The Battle Ground. 

The battles of the 19th of September and 7th of October 
■were fought near the same spot, and after a view of the 
whole field, the visitor will find it very gratif>ing to pro- 
ceed to the spot by following the American line. If 
this is not convenient, he can pursue the road along the 
piver, up nearly to Smith's tavern, which stands on the 
Foad two or three milep up. The British right and 
the American left, as was before remarked, approached 
near each other and had a valley between them, in 
which was a cleared field, called Freeman's Farm, sur- 
rounded by a forest. Having reached this spot the 
visitor will be able to compre; end in the most satisfac- 
tory manner, the description of the battle of Sept. 19th, 
as given by Geii. Wilkinson, after a brief introductioB- 



TRAVELLER. 89 

Battle of Sept. 19th. 

In the morning it was reported by Col. Colburn, who 
was watching the enemy, that they were beginning to 
ascend the hill towards the American leit. Gen. Gates 
sent Col. Morgan to oppose 'hem, and the firing began 
about noon. The action extended, and in three hours 
was general, and continued without interruption till 
dark. The American troops engaged amounted to 3000, 
the British to 3500. The following account is from Gen. 
Wilkinson. 

" This battle was perfectly accidental ; neither of the 
generals meditated an attack at the time, and ' ut for 
Lieutenant Colonel Colburn's report, it would not have 
taken place ; Burgoyne's movement being merely to 
take ground on the heights in front of the great ravine, 
to give his several corps their proper places in line, to 
embrace our front and cover his transport, stores, pro- 
visions and baggage, in the rear of his left ; and on our 
side the defences of our camp being not half completed, 
and reinforcements daily arriving, it was not General 
Gates' policy to court an action. The misconception of 
the adverse chiefs put them on the defensive, and con- 
fmed them to she ground they casually occupied at the 
beginning of the action, and prevented a single manoeu- 
vre, during one of the longest, warmest, and most ob- 
stinate battles fought in America. General Gates be- 
lieved that his antagonist intended to attack him, and 
circumstances appear- d to justify the like conclusion on 
the part of Burgoyne; and as the thickness and depth 
of the intervening wood concealed the position and 
movements of either army from its adversary, sound 
caution obliged the respective commanders to guard 
every assailable point ; thus the flower of the British 
army, the grenadiers and light infantry, one thousand 
five hundred strong, were posted on an eminence to 
cover its right, and stood by thf ir arms, inactive specta- 
tors of the conflict, until near sunset; while Gen. Gates 
was obliged to keep his right wing on post, to prevent 
the enemy from forcing that flank, by the plain border- 
ing on the river. Had either of the generals been pro- 
perly apprised of the dispositions of his antagonist, a se- 



yU THE NORTHERN 

rious blow might have been struck on our left or the 
enemy's right; but although nothing is more common, 
it is as illiberal as it is unjust, to determine the merits of 
military operations by events exclusively. It was not 
•without experience that the Romans erected temples to 
Fortune. Later times might atFord motives for edifices, 
in which genius or wisdom wou dhave no votaries. 

"The theatre of action was such, that although the 
combatants changed ground a dozen times in the course 
of the day, the contest terminated on the spot where it 
began. This raa> be explained in a few words. The 
British line was formed on an eminence in a thin pine 
wood, having before it Freeman's farm, an oblong field 
stretching from the centre towards its right, the ground 
in front sloping gently down -o the verg of this field, 
which was bordered on the opposite side by a close 
wood ; the sanguinary scene lay in the cleared ground, 
between the eminence occupied by the enemy and the 
wood just described ; the fire of our marksmen from this 
wood was too deadly to be withstood by the enemy in 
line, and when they i^ave way and broke, our men rush- 
ing; from their covert, pursued them to the eminence, 
where, ha ing their flanks protected, they rallied, and 
charging in turn drove us buck into the wood, from 
whencr- a dreadful fire would again force them to fall 
back; and in this manner did the battle fluctuate, like 
waves of a stormy -ea, with alternate advantage for four 
hours, without one moment's intermission. The British 
artillery fell into our possession a ever/ charge, but we 
could neither turn the piec s upon the enemy, nor bring 
them off; the wood prevented the last, and the want of 
a match the first, as the linstock was invaria ly carried 
off, and the rapidity of the transitions did not allow us 
time to provide one. The slaughter of this brigaie of 
artillerists was remarkable, the captain and thirty-six 
men bein? killed or wounded out of forty-eight. It 
was truly a gallant conflict, in which d ath by familiarity 
lost his terrors, and certainly a drawn battle, as night 
alone terminated it ; the British army keeping its ground 
in rear of the field of action, and our corps, when they 
could no longer distinguish objects, retiring to their own 



TRAVELLER. 91 

The interval between the two Battles. 

This time, from Sept. 19th till Oct. 7th, was devoted 
to strengthening theii fortifications, and by Gen. Gates to 
collecting also large reinforcements of militia. Gen. Bur- 
goyne is said to have planned an attack on the 20th and 
21st of September, but fortunately delayed until the 
Americans were in the best situation to oppose him. 
Attacks on the British pickets took place almost every 
night, and they were continually harrassed. 

Battle ow October 11th. 

Gen. Wilkinson gives the following description of this 
battle. 

" On the afternoon of October 7th, the advanced guarct 
of the centre beat to arms; the alarm was repeated 
throughout the line, and the troops repaired to their 
alarm posts. I was at head quarters when this happen- 
ed, and with the approbation of the General, mounted 
my horse to inquire the cause; but on reaching the 
guard where the beat commenced, I could obtain no 
other satisfaction, but that some person had reported the 
enemy to be advancing against our left. I proceeded 
over open ground, and ascending a gentle acclivity in 
front of the guard, I perceived about half a mile from 
the line of our encampment, several columns of the ene- 
my, 60 or 70 rods from me, entering a wheat field which 
had not been cut, and was separated from me by a small 
rivulet ; and without my glass I could distinctly mark 
their every movement. After entering the field they 
displayed, formed the line, and set down in double ranks 
with their arms between their legs. Foragers then pro- 
ceeded to cut the wheat or standing straw, and I soon 
after observed several officers, mounted on the top of a 
cabin, from whence Avith their glasses they were endeav- 
ouring to reconnoitre our left, which was concealed from 
their view by intervening woods. 

" Having satisfied myself, after fifteen minutes atten- 
tive observation, that no attack was meditated, I return- 
-^d and reported to the General, who asked me what ap- 



m THE NORTHERN 

peared to be the intentions of the enemy. " They are 
Ibraging and encleavouriag to reconnoitre your left ; and 
I think, Sir, they offer you battle." "What is the nature 
of the ground, and what your opinion ?" Their front is 
open, and their flanks rest on the woods, under cover of 
which they may be attacked ; their right is skirted by a 
lofty height. I would indulge them." " Well then order 
on ftlorgan to begin the game." I waited on the Colonel, 
whose corps was formed in front of our centre, and de- 
livered the order ; he knew the ground and enquired the 
position of the enemy : they were formed across a new 
cultivated field, their grenadiers with several field pieces 
on the left, bordering on a wood and a small ravine form- 
ed by the rivulet before alluded to ; their light infantry 
on the right, covered by a worm fence at the foot of the 
hill before mentioned, thickly covered with wood ; their 
centre composed of British and G erman battalions. Col. 
IMorgan, with his usual sagacity, proposed to make a cir- 
cuit with his corps by our left, and under cover of the 
wood to gain the height on the right of the enemy, and 
from thence commence his attack, so soon as our fire should 
be opened against their left ; the plan was the best 
which could be devised, and no doubt contributed essen- 
tially to the prompt and decisive victory we gained. 

•' This proposition was approved by the General, and 
it was concerted that time should be allowed the Colonel 
to make the proposed circuit and gain his station on the 
enemy's right before the attack should be made on their 
left ; Poor's brigade was ordered for liis service, and the 
attack was commenced in due season on the flank and 
front of the British grenadiers, by the New Hampshire 
and New York troops True to his purpose, Morgan at 
this critical moment poured down like a torrent from the 
hill, and attacked the right of the enemy in front and flank. 
Dearborn at the moment, when the enemy's light infantry 
were attempting to change front, pressed forward with 
ardour anddelivered a close fire ; then leaped the fence, 
.shouted, charged and gallantly forced them to retire in 
disorder ; yet headed by that intrepid soldier the Earl of 
Balcarras they were immediately rallied and re-formed 
behind a fence in rear of their first position ; but being- 



TKAVELLEK . 93 

now attacked with g^eat audacity in front and flanks by su- 
perior numbers, resistance became vain, and the whole Hne., 
commanded by Burgoyne in person, g'ave way and made a 
precipitate and disorderly retreat to his camp, leaving two 
12 and six six pounders on the field with the loss of more 
than 400 officers and men killed, wounded and captured, 
and among them the flower of his officers, viz. Brigadier 
General Frazer,* Major Ackland commanding the gre- 
nadiers, Sir Francis Clark, his first aid-de~camp. Major 
Williams, commanding officer of the artillery, Captain 
Money, deputy quarter-master-general, and many others. 
After delivering the order to General Poor and dit scting- 
him to the point of attack, I was peremptorily command- 
ed to repair to the rear and order up Ten Broeck's brigade 
of York mditia 3000 strong ; I performed this service, 
and regained the field of battle at the moment the enemy 
had turned their back, fifty two minutes after the first 
shot was fired. The ground which had been occupied 
by the British grenadiers presented a scene of complicat- 
ed horror and exultation. In the square space of twelve 
or fifteen yards lay eighteen grenadiers in the agonies of 
death, and three officers propt up against stumps of trees, 
two of them mortally wounded, bleedmg and almost 
speechless ; what a spectacle for one whose bosom glow- 
ed with philanthrophy, and how vehement the impulse, 
which excites men of sensibility to seek such scenes of 
barbarism ! 

I found the courageous Colonel Cilley a-straddle on a 
brass twelve-pounder and exulting in the capture — 
whilst a surgeon, a man of great worth, who was dressing- 
one of the officers, raising his blood-besmeared hands in a 
frenzy of patriotism, exclaimed, Wilkinson, I have dip- 
ped my hands in British blood. He received a sharp re- 
buke for his brutality, and with the troops I pursued the 
hard-pressed flying enemy, passing over killed and 
wounded until I heard one exclaim, " protect me Sir, 
against this boy." Turning my eyes, it was my fortune 



'^General Frazer was shot in the meadow a little off the 
voad, just south of the Blacksmith's shop. The spot is 
»n a cross road, and a little elevated. 



94 THE NORTHERN 

to arrest the purpose of a lad thirteen or fourteen years 
old, in the act of takings aim at a wounded officer who 
lay in the angle of a worm fence. Inquiring his rank, he 
answered, "I had the honour to command the grena- 
diers ;" of course, I knew him to be Major Ackland, who 
had been brought fi-om the field to this place, on the back 
of a Captain Shrimpton of his own corps, under a heavy 
fire, and was here deposited, to save the lives of both. I 
dismounted, took him by the hand and expressed hopes 
that he was not badly wounded ; " not badly," replied 
this gallant officer and accomplished gentleman, " but ve- 
ry inconveniently, I am shot through both legs ; will 
you, Sir, have the goodness to have me conveyed to your 
<iamp ?" I directed my servant to alight, and we lifted 
Ackland into his seat, and ordered him to be conducted 
to head quarters. I then proceeded to the scene of re- 
newed action, which embraced Burgoyne's right flank 
defence, and extendir-ig to his left, crossed a hollow co- 
vered with wood, abuut 40 rods to the entrenchment of 
the light infantry ; the roar of cannon and small arms at 
this juncture was sublime, between the enemy, behind 
their works, and our troops entirely exposed, or partially 
sheltered by trees, stumps, or hollows, at various distan- 
ces, not exceeding 120 yards. This right flank defence 
of the enemy, occupied by the German corps of Brey- 
man, consisted of a breast-work of rails piled horizontal- 
ly between perpend -cular pickets, driven into the eartli, 
£71 potence to the rest of his line, and extended about 250 
yards across an open field, and was cov^rd on the right 
by a battery of two gun'■^. The interval from the left to 
the British light infantry was committed to the defence 
of theyrovincialists, who occupied a couple of log cabins. 
The Germans were encamped immediately behind the 
rail breast-work, and the ground in front of it declined in 
a very gentle slope for about 120 yards, when it sunk 
abruptly ; our troops had formed a line under this de- 
clivity, and covered brtast high were warmly engaged 
•with the Germans. From this position, about sunset, I 
perceived Brigadier Gi^neral Learned advancing towards 
the enemy with his brigade, in open column, I think with 
«">lonel M, Jackson's regiment in froat, as I saw Lier.- 



tRAVELLER. 95 

tenant Colonel Brooks, who commanded it, near the 
General when I rode up to him ; on saluting this brave 
old soldier, he inquired, where can I put m with most ad- 
vantage ?" I had particularly exammed the ground be- 
tween the left of the Germans and the light infantry, oc- 
cupied by the provmcialists, from whence I had observ- 
ed a slack fire ; I therefore recommended to General 
Learned to incline to his right, and attack at that point : 
he did so with great gallantry ; the provincialists aban- 
doned their position and fled ; the German flank was by 
this means uncovered ; they were assaulted vigorously, 
overturned in five minutes, and retreated in disorder, 
leaving their gallant commander, Lieutenant-Colonel 
Breyman, dead on the field. By dislodging this corps, 
the whole British encampment was laid open to us ; but 
the extreme darkness of the night, tlie fatigue of the men, 
and the disorder incident to undisciplined troops after so 
desultory an action, pr.t it out of our power to improve 
the advantage ; and in the course of the night General 
Burgoyne broke up his camp, and retired to his original 
position, which he had fortified, behind the great ravine." 
The British lost in killed, wounded and prisoners, 
about 600; the Americans 319. The German officers 
?aid they had never before met so vigorous and terrible u 
fire. Several American officers who walked over the 
field after midnight, found no enemy to interrupt them. 

General Frazer's Grave, 

is on the hill a little west of Smith's. At his own I'e- 
quest, he was buried in the great redoubt. 

Oct. 8th, frequent attacks were made on Gen. Balcarras"" 
corps, and the British expected a general action. 



GENERAL BURGOYNE'S RETREAT 

commenced that night towards Lake George; but he 
was pursued and intercepted so promptly, that he was 
obliged to stop and take a position at Fishkill, near 
v.'hich he surrendered ten days after the battle. The 



?6 THE NORTHERN 

place will be particularly noticed on the " Excui'sion trf 
Saratoga Lake. 

After perusing the foregoing descriptions of those two 
most important battles, the traveller will be greatly in- 
terested in learning that Smith's inn to which he has be- 
fore been directed, was at that period the 

Quarters of Gen. Burgoyne. 

The house now stands by the road side, but the place 
where it then was is a spot at the foot of the hill and about 
200 yards from the river. Several ladies of distinction 
were its inmates at the time when the British troops 
were here, being the wives of some of his principal 
officers. Among these were the Baroness Reidesel, 
with her children, wife of Gen. Heidesel, Lady Harriet 
Ackland, wife of Major Ackland, commander of the 
British Grenadiers. The former published an account 
of what she saw during this trying and dangerous contest, 
after her return to Europe. The house was converted 
into a hospital during the second battle, and Gen. Fraz- 
er died on the 8th of October in what is now the bar- 
room. His grave is on the hill. The following is an ex- 
tract from the interesting narative of the Baroness. 

" But sevei e trials awaited us, and on the 7th of Oct. 
our misfortunes began ; was at breakfast with my hus- 
band, and heard that something was intended. On the 
5:ame day I expected Generals Burgoyne, Philips and 
Frazer to dine wiih us. I saw a great movement among 
the troops ; my husband told me, it was merely a recon- 
noissance, which give me no concern as it often happen- 
ed. I walked out of the house and met several Indians 
in their war dresses, with guns in iheir hands. When I 
asked them where they were gom? llff>y cried out War t 
War I (meaning they were goinj.- to battle.) This filled 
me with apprehension, and 1 cai\;t:iy g,othome before I 
":ieard reports of cannon and musketry, which grew loud- 
er by degrees, till at last the noise became excessive. 
About 4 o'clock in the afternoon instead of the guests 
whom I expected. General Frazer was brought on a litter 
mortally wounded. The table which was already set, 
was instantly removed, and a bed placed in its stead for 



TRAVELLER. 97 

fhe wounded General. I sat trembling in a corner ; the 
noise grew louder and the alarm increased ; the thought 
that my husband might perhaps be brought in, wounded 
in the same way, was terrible to me, and distressed me 
exceedingly. General Frazer 5aid to the surgeon, " tell 
me if my wound is mortal, do not Jiatter me." The ball 
had passed through his body, and unhappily for the 
General, he had eaten a very hearty breakfast, by 
which the stomach was distended, and the ball, as 
the surgeon said, had passed through it. I heard him 
often exclaim with a sigh '• Oh fatal ambition ! Poor 
General Burcoyne ! Oh my poor wife !" He was asked 
if he had any request to make, to which he replied, that 
" If General Burgoyne would permit it, he should 
like to be buried at 6 o'clock in the evening on the 
top of a mountain, in a redoubt avhich had been built 
THERE." I did not know which way to turn, all the 
other rooms were full of sick. Towards evening I saw 
ray husband coming, then I forgot all my sorrows and 
thanked God that he was spared to me. He ate in great 
haste with me and his aid-de-camp behind the house. 
AVe had been told that we had the advantage of the 
enemy, but the sorrov/ful faces I beheld told a different 
tale, and before my husband went away he took me one 
side, and said every thing was going very bad, that I 
must keep myself in readiness o leave the place but not 
to mention it to any one. I made the pretence that I 
would move the next morning into my new house, and 
had every thing packed up ready. 

" Lady H. Ackland had a tent not far from our house, 
in this she slept, and the rest of the day she was in the 
camp. All of a sudden a man came to tell her that her 
husband was mortally wounded and taken prisoner ; on 
hearing this she became very miserable, we comforted 
her by telling her, that the wound was only slight, and 
at the same time advised her to go over to her husband, 
to do which she would certamly obtain permission, and 
then she could attend him herself ; she was a charming 
woman and veiy fond of him. I spent much of the 
night in comforting her, and then went again to my chil- 
dren whom I had put to bed. I could not go to sleep, as I 
had General Frazer and all the other wounded gentlemen 
I 



9S IHE NORTHERN 

in my room, and I was sadly afraid mychildien would 
awake and by their ciying diulurb the dying man in his 
last moments, who often addressed me and apologized 
"'•for the trouble he save me." About 3 o'clock in the 
morning I was told he could not hold out much longer ; 
1 had desiredto be informed of the near approach of this 
sad crisis, and 1 then wrapped up my children in their 
clothes, and went with them into the room below. 
About 8 o'clock in the morning he died. After he was 
laid out and his corpse wrapped up in a sheet, we came 
again into the room, and had this sorrowful siglit before 
us the whole day, and to add to this melancholy scene, 
almost every moment some officer of my acquaintance 
was bi'ought in wounded. The cannonade commenced 
again ; a retreat was spoken of, but not the smalles^t mo- 
tion was made towards it. About 4 o'clock in the after- 
noon I saw the house which had just been built for me 
in flames, and the enemy was now not far ofl'. We knew 
that General Burgoyne would not refuse the last request 
of General Frazer, though by his acceding to it, an un- 
necessary delay was occasioned, by which the inconve- 
nience of the army was much increased. At 6 o'clock 
the corpse was brought out, and we saw all the Generals 
attend it to the mountain ; the chaplain, Mr. Brundell, 
performed the funeral service, rendered unusually so- 
lemn, and awful from its being accompanied by con- 
stant peals from the enemy's artilleiy. Many cannou 
balls flew clos^' by me, but I had my eyes directed to- 
wards the mountain, where my husband, was standing, 
amidst the fire of the enemy, and of course, I could not 
think of my own danger. 

" General Gates afterwards said, that if he had known 
it had been a funeral he would not have permitted it to 
be fired on." 

Lady Harriet Ackland went to the American camp 
after the action, to take care of her huslband before the 
surrender, and the Baroness Reidesel afterwards. They 
were both received with the greatest kindness and deli- 
cacy. 



TRAVELLER 99 

BALLSTON SPRINGS. 

The clustering buildings of this great watering place 
are discovered unexpectedly, in a little valley of sufficient 
depth to conceal them at a short distance. Mr. Booth's 
female Academy is just South of the village. There are 
here three principal houses for the reception of visi- 
tors. The largest and most fashionable is Sans Souci; 
and the most comfortable are Aldridge's and Corey's. 
The price of board is ten dollars a week at the former 
place, and eight dollars at the two latter. Besides these 
three are several other boarding houses of inferior pre- 
tensions and prices ; for great numbers of persons of all 
classes are annually attracted to these great watering 
places. 

SANS SOUCI 

Is a building of an important size, occupying the 
corner where the village street meets the road to Sara- 
toga. It has a fine piazza opening upon the former, 
and presents a front of 160 feet long with a wing extend- 
ing back from each end 150 feet, all of them three stories 
high, and containg in all lodging for nearly 150 persons. 
The dining room can easily accommodate tiat number, 
and the public parlour is large, airy and pleasant, ex- 
tending to the ladies' private parlour. There is a beauti- 
ful meadow in the rear of the house which is to be made 
free of some incumberances, and to be planted with 
trees, laid out in walks, &-c. for the pleasure of visitors. 

Scarcely any thing in this country can exceed the 
scene of gaiety which this house presents in the visiting 
treason, as scarcely any thing can communicate sensa- 
tions of more complete desertion and loneliness before 
the company hcive arrived, or after they have retired. 
When crowded with people, Sans Souci is usually the 
scene of several balls in the week, to say nothing of 
the fishing parties, riding parties, k,c. he. which fill up 
the day. The variety of scenery in the neighbourhood 
is sufficient to attract many of those Avho resort to this 
place of health and pleasure, and walking and riding w^ll 
be found much more asreeable here then at Saratosa. 



iOO THE NORTHERN 

Some of the particular routes and objects will be desig- 
nated hereafter. 

Mr. Aldbidge's House 

was the first respectable one ever opened in this place 
for the accommodation of visitors. Its size being suf- 
cient also for a more limited number of persons, a 
visitor of quiet habits or in ill health, will here find 
himself retired from the noise and bustle which enter 
so largely into the amusements of the more gay and 
rob .St. Very considerable improvements are also to be 
made here this season. The house has a pleasent gai- 
den, with a long flight of steps leading to a commanding 
elevation which overlooks the village below. In speak- 
ing of this house and Corey's at once, we may remark, 
that the tables are well furnished, the servants attentive, 
the rooms commodious, and the company no less gen- 
teel than at Sans Souci. 

Mr. Corey's House 

Is situated at a little distance south of Aldridge's, and 
has a pleasant appearance, having a handsome green in 
front and a piazza. 

THE OLD SPRING, 

Which is in the middle of the street opposite Aldridge's, 
was the first discovered in all this part of the country. 
It is said that the inhabitants were induced to trust to its 
peculiar virtues by the example of the deer of the forest, 
which had resorted to it in such numbers as to form 
beaten paths from every direction to the spot. In 1792 
there was not a house within two or three miles of this 
spot. The neighbouring country was almost a perfect 
wilderness at the close of the revolutionary war ; for 
the natural military route between Canada and the 
IT. States lay through it, and the Five Nations of Indians 
were so near on the western side, and were frequently 
passing over it on their war parties, that few white men 
were willing to encounter the dangers and risque^ t«* 



TRAVELLER. 101 

to which sucli a residence must necesirarily be exposed- 
For some years the only place where visitors could find 
shelter here, was in a log house, which continued for a 
considerable time to be the only object of notice. The 
Springs near the Sans Souci were subsequently discover- 
ed, and have enjoyed their portion of celebrity. In 1817 
four springs of different qualities were found near the 
great manufactory built by Mr. Low. Their history is 
worthy of attention, as it shows the singular clianges 
which sometimes take place in this mysterious soil, 
Avhere springs occasionally appear, change places and 
disappear, without any apparentcause. Some surprising 
power is constantly at work somewhere beneath the sur- 
face, which the wisest students of nature are unable to 
explain or to comprehend. The branch of the Kayde- 
rosseros brook which flows through the Spa Village, was 
raised to an unusual height by a flood in the summer of 
1817, which threw its current into a new channel fur- 
ther towards the east than its former one. The old bed 
w^as thus left dry ; and four springs were found rising 
jfide by side, all of them within a space of about twenty 
feet square, and all of qualities entirely different. One 
resembled in some degree the old spring, but contained a 
-surplus of carbonic acid gas and sparkled like champaign; 
the next contained much glauber salts, and was some- 
what like the Congress Spring at Saratoga ; the third 
was brine, like sea water ; and the fourth Avas as fresh as 
rain. A platform was raised that covered them all, and 
wooden tubes Vv^ere sunk into the tu'o first, wiiich were 
onlytwo or three feet apart, and for three or four seasons 
they attracted all visitors, so much so that the old spring 
was deserted. The first spring was peculiarly fine, and 
the favourite of all ; but it at length began to lose its fla- 
vour, gas and virtue. Fashion soon eyed it with suspicion, 
and the steps of the gay as well as the melancholy were 
bent in another direction, so' that these four won- 
ders of the place were neglected and forgotten, and have 
long contented tliemselves with joining in one current 
of clear fresh water, to swell without tincturing the 
stream of the Kayderosseros. 

The old spring has fully regained its ancient reputa- 
tion ; and as the tide of company was turned last season 
from Saratoga back to Ballston, it is to be presumed thnt 



102 THE NORTHERN 

youth and age will crowd as heretofore around its brink, 
and pleasure as well as health will again be dispensed 
at its fountain. 



Qualities of the Waters. 

New-Haven, April 27, 1824. 
Dear Sir, 
You request ray opinion of the mineral waters at Ball- 
ston Spa. They are in my view, very valuable, and I 
can discern no serious reason why public opinion should 
be less favourable to them now, than formerely. I be- 
came acquainted with the old spring, near Mr. Aldridge's 
in consequence of using its waters uninterruptedly at the 
fountain head, for a month, in the autumn of 1797 ; and 
a residence of the same length of time, at Ballston Spa, 
during the last summer, gave me an opportunity of re- 
newing my acquaintance with the Old spring, and of 
becoming familiar also with those more recently dis- 
covered fountains, which have been opened and brought 
into use. The old spring, appears substantially, as it did 
in 1797, and is, I suppose, surpassed by no mineral foun- 
tain in the world as a brisk, copious, slightly saline, and 
strong chalybeate. The principal spring under the bath 
house, while it is also a brisk chalybeate, is, besides in a 
high degree saline, and is probably unrivalled as a natu- 
ral combination of this class. Its cathartic properties 
are strong and its tonic powers equally so. There is no 
spring either at Ballston Spa or Saratoga springs which I 
should prefer to this. I speak of my own experience — for 
some persons, a brisk cathartic water, scarcely chaly- 
beate at all, like the Congress spring, may be preferable. 
The Congress spring is also, so far as I am informed 
without a rival, in its class — but it is scarcely proper to 
call it a chalybeate, as it is so only in a slight degree. 
There is no reason why the establishments at Saratoga 
springs and at Ballston Spa should regard each other 
with an unfriendly feeling. The accommodations of 
both are too good to need praise from me, and the boun- 
ty of the Creator has poured forth these fountains of 
health, in the great valley (for I regard the springs of 
Ballston Spa and Saratoga as parts of one great sy?- 



TRAVELLER. 103 

iem) with a profuse benevolence, unknown in any 
other country. Nothing can exceed the variety, copi- 
ousness and excellence of the springs at Saratoga — 
but those of Ballston Spa are in no respect except that 
of number and variety inferior to them, and I trust the 
day is not distant, when a truly liberal feeling, will in 
both villages, lead to mutual commeadation, and an ami- 
cable rivalry, in efforts to please and to accommodate 
their guests; and the salutary etFect will then, I am per- 
suaded, soon be visible, in the increased number of visi- 
tors, from every part of this great continent ; a number 
more than sufficient to fill both villages, and fully to re- 
ward the spirited and liberal proprietors of their respec- 
tive public establishments. 

With the best wishes for the prosperity of both places 
I remam 

Your Obt. Servt. 

B. SILLIMAN. 



The Lover^s Leap is a precipice of 60 or 70 feet, which 
overhangs the Kayderosseros, and overlooks a romantic 
and secluded little valley, at the distance of about half a 
mile from the springs. The road leads up the hill be- 
yond Aldridge's, and through a dark pine grove. A half 
trodden path turns off at the right and conducts to the 
precipice, which is a pleasant retreat in the heat of the day, 
aifording a fine shade and frequently a pleasant breeze, as 
well as the view of a wild scene below, to which a steep 
descent conducts on the left hand. Many cheerful par- 
ties have visited this spot, many lonely and melancholy 
footsteps ; it has drawn forth many enthusiastic remarks 
on the beauties of nature, and it is said, some indifferent 
poetry. 

BALLSTON LAKE 

is a pretty little sheet of water about 4 miles distant ; 
but as Saratoga Lake is much larger, more accessible 
and more beautiful, and is supplied with accommodations 
for fishing parties, it is more worthy of attention, and to 
the description of it we refer the stranger. It is only six 



104 THE NORTHERN 

miles from BallstonSpa and the same distance iVomS-dras- 
lo»a. 

There is a fme farm -vvhicli may be seen in a souU/- 
westerly direction, from L'allstou Sprins^s, which from its 
biz2 ainl style of cultivation is worthy of the attention of 
ag-iiculturists." 

There is a Reading Room and Circulating Library 
kept at the store of Mr. Comstock, and a book is also 
kept in which the names of visitors arrivin;^: at the princi- 
pal houses are daily entered, for the information of others. 

REMARKS OS THE ROUTES. 

At tlie Springs many a traveller has to arrange his 
future journeys, either for business or pleasure, and as 
Ballston and Saratoga are pre-eminenfly places of leis- 
ure, if not of rcjleciion, some general hints concerning 
tlie different routes will not be misplaced. 

NORTH. The roads to Lake George, Lake Cham- 
]tlain, Montreal, he belonging more properly to Sara- 
toga, will be given under that head- 

EAST. The traveller is referred to (he same place 
also for the roads leading into New England. 

SOUTH. Two or three Steam Baats leave Albany 
for New-York every day, and as many arrive from that 
city. Several others will also ply every week between 
NeAv-York and Troy. They all touch at numerous 
points on the river, so that passengers can land where 
they please. The newspapers will furnish all necessary 
information concerning their periods of departure and 
leturn, and coaches from the Springs so regulate their 
time as to accommodate the traveller. The larger 
boats are generally preferred, on account of the fine air 
and prospect enjoyed from their upper decks; but they 
are sometimes more crowded than the small ones, and 
when the water in the river is low, some of them can 
come up no higher than the Overslaugh, 4 miles below 
Albany, to which place i)assenger3 are taken down in 
the little steam boat Fire-Fly. 

There are three roads to Albany : by Waterford, by 
Scheniectady, and by a route between these two. 
' The Jirst is much the pleasantest, and affords the best 
travelling. From Waterford vou mar take either side 

v: 



TRAVELLER. 105 

of the river. On the west side are the Cohoes Falls, 
the remarkable " nine locks" on the Erie Canal, the 
junction of the two Canals, and route of the former 
quite to Albany. On the east side the road passes over 
a bridge to Lausingburgh, through Troy, and re-crosses 
by a good and safe ferry. 

For notices of these places and objects, see pages 25 
and 26. 

The second road, which goes through Schenectady, is 
rather circuitous, utwill give the stranger an opportu- 
nity of travelling 27 miles on the Erie Canal, along the 
course of the Mohawk, and a sight of the various ob- 
jects mentioned in pages 25 fee A "considerable part 
of two days will be necessary on this route from Balls- 
ton to Albany, but i little more than a single one will be 
sufficient if he travels all the way in stage coaches, there 
being a direct road from Schenectady to Albany. 

WEST. The grand western route, through Utica, and 
leading to Niigara and Lake Erie, has been already tra- 
ced out with sufficient particularity for the use of most 
travellers, and to that those readers are referred, who 
intend to pursue that course after leaving the Springs. 
The nearest point on that route is Schenectady, whence 
the traveller may proceed up the Mohawk, either by the 
stage road or in the canal boats. See page 28. 

The third road is little travelled, and cannot be re- 
commended. 

SARATOGA SPRINGS 

are 8 miles from Ballston Springs, and a public coach 
passes between these two places every day — 50 cents for 
a seat. The road is level and sandy, and if tlie weather 
be dry the traveller will probably be incommoded with 
dust, unless he rides in the morning or evening when 
the ground is moist with the dew. Measures have been 
taken to form a turnpike road, which it is hoped, will be 
accomplished this season. 

The village is quite concealed until you are within a 
jhort distance, and then the clusters of frail board buiW- 



106 THE NORTHERN 

ino;s whic!! spring up amonji,- the stumps of trees lately 
lelled in the skirts of the pine forest, show what an un- 
natural surplus of population the plr;ce contains during 
the brief period that fashion here maintains her cowrt. 
It may not be unseasonable to mention here the principal 
hou'ses in the order in which they wej-e supposed to stand 
on the list of gentility in 1824 : the United States Hotel, 
«10 per week, Congress Hall do. the Pavilion do. and 
Union Hall |8. 

On reaching the hrow^ of a hill which descends into 
the village the street lies in full view, with all the prin- 
cipal houses. On the riglU is Congress Hali three stories 
high with a row of 17 columns, rising from the ground 
to the eaves ; opposite is Union Hall with a row of 10/ 
similar columns; over which are seen the brick walls of 
the United States Hotel ; and still beyond and on the 
other side, the roof of the Pavilion > From this view the 
village is represented in the accompanying print, which 
was taken on the spot the last season. 

On reaching the foot of the hill, the Congress Springy, 
the glory, the existence of the place, is seen at a short 
distance on the right, usually surrounded with a throng 
of people. 

Congress Hall 

Has generally enjoyed the highest favour among the 
most fashionable visitors at Saratoga, on account of its 
fine and imposing appearance, its contiguity to the 
Spring, the number and size of its apartments, and the 
i^lyle in which it is furnished and kept. It is 196 feet long 
on the street, with two w ings of 60 feet running back,, 
and contains lodging for 150. The first floor in front is 
divided into the following manner : a dining room at 
the south end, capable of containing tables far all the 
house can accommodate; next the dancing hall, about 80 
feet long, andlast the ladies' parlour. Theprice of board 
is $10 per week. 

The United States Hall 

Is a fine building of brick, three stones high, with a 
Oolonade rielng only to the second story- Thishousi? is 



TRAVELLER. iO: 

excellently well kept, and is more substantially built 
than any of the rest, which are of alight construction, 
lit only for the mildest weather ; but it is deficient in 
public rooms, in which particular Congress Hall so 
much excells. It is also raised so high from the street 
as not to be convenient of access, although many prefer 
it on that very account. 

The Pavilion. 

This is a very good house for one of its size, and will 
be found free from much of the bustle of the larger ones, 
while the resort of company no less respectable and 
genteel. Those who wish to drink often of the Flat 
rock water will prefer it, as that Spring is only a fev/ 
ste s .romit in the rear. There is also a shady little 
wood not far beyond by the road side, on the way to the 
Round Rock Spring. 



UNION HALL 

Is the resort of those who wish to have the most con- 
venient access to the waters of the Congress Spring, or 
to participate more moderately in the amusements of 
the place, and to avoid the inconveniences of gaiety and 
mirth, which those do not feel who mingle in the con- 
tmned round of balls and dances which produce them. 

THE CONGRESS SPRING, 

Which, as was before remarked, is the great source 
from which this place derives its celebrity and its show 
of wealth and importance, was discovered by Mr. Put- 
nam. He built the first house near it for thr accommo- 
dation of invalids, which was subsequently enlarged to 
the present Union Hall, now kept by his son. The Round 
rock Spring, of w^hich more particular notice will soon 
be taken, was known before, having been discovered to 
Sir William Johnson bv an Indian, while the country 
was yet a wilderness, the Congress Spring was long 
concealed by the neighbouring brook which formerly 
passed over it; but its valuable qualities being disc )vef- 



108 THE NORTHERN 

ed, it has attracted universal attention, and the benefit •; 
of its waters are annually dispensed to thousands. 

THE FLAT ROCK SPRING, 

Is near the upper end of the street, and in the rear of 
the Pavilion. In composition and qualities it bears 
some resemblance to the Old Spring at BuUston, but is 
far inferior. It is a calybeate water, and the best of 
the kind in the place. It is situated on the margin of 
the little valley in which all the springs are found, and 
the Pavillion will be found a pleasant house to invalids 
and others who wish to drink of it frequently. 



THE ROUND ROCK SPRING. 

This Spring is worthy of a visit merely as a natural 
curiosity, the water, although for a time much celebra- 
ted, and indeed the only attraction of which Saratoga 
could boast, having gone into disrepute, since the dis- 
covery of the sources already mentioned. It ie a feeble 
chalybeate, with little taste and little effect. The water 
rises in a small lime-stone rock of a conical form, with a 
circular hole in the middle, about five inches in diame- 
ter. The rock is about five feet through at the base, and 
has evidently been produced by the layers of lime 
deposited by the water. Many of the rocks in the 
neighbourhood contain a large quantity of lime, where 
the carbonic acid of the water probably obtains the sup- 
ply Avhich it afterwards deposits here. The gradual ac- 
cretion which is constantly going on here, is very appa- 
rent even to a hasty observer. That part of the rock 
which is most exposed to the dripping of water taken out 
in cups through the hole in the top, is always smooth 
and even, while other parts are rough and broken. 
Fractures made by visitors are sometimes found half ob- 
literated by a recent coat of calcareous matter formed in 
this manner. A horizontal rock, apparently of similar 
formation, extends for a considerable distance under the 
surface of the ground ; and indeed it might be supposed 
to reach to some of the springs which rise in ditferent 
places along the valley above. 



TRAVELLER 109 

It is said that the Round Rock was discovered to Sir 
William Johnson by an Indian, before which time it was 
unknown to Whitemen. The water, according to com- 
mon report, formerly flowed over the top, but has for 
many years found its Avay below, through a crevice pro- 
duced by a large forest tree which fell and cracked the 
rock. 



SARATOGA LAKE. 

An excursion to this beautiful piece of water, is one of 
the most agreeable that can be made in any direction. 
It is six miles distant, in a south-easterly direction, and 
is frequently visited by parties from Ballston, as well as 
Saratoga Springs, as a good house has been lately erected 
on the shore, and furnished with every accommodation, 
by Mr. Riley. Sailing and fishing on the Lake form the 
amusements of the excursion. 

The lake extends 9 milesin length, and is 3 in breadtli. 
The shores are bold and varied, gently descending with 
a smooth slope to the margin or rising in rugged crags 
from the water's edge ; sometimes softened and beautifi- 
edby the hand of cultivation, and sometimes abandoned 
to all their native wildness. 

If the wind and weather are favourable, the visitor 
may expect good sport in fishing! and if not, he may- 
calculate on a dinner table well supplied by other and 
more fortunate adventurers.' There are also many kinds 
of wild fowl, birds, &,c. in the neighbourhood, so that a 
sportsman may find great amusement here. 

The Battle Ground, 

where General Burgoyne fought Gen. Gates and the 
Americans in the autumn of 1777, lies at the distance of 
6 or 6 miles, towards the east, and is described particular- 
ly at page 85 and onward ; see page 1 12 for 

The Field of Svrrer.der. and Gen. BttT^mive's last Camv. 



•ii<j ilii: iVOllTHEliit 

Trout Fishing. 

li miles eastward from the Springs, is a Trout pouc/, 
to Avhich sportsmen frequently resort. Mr. B-r'mte, 
however, who keeps the house, never permits the fish to 
be eaten any whei-e else. 

The remarks whicli have been made on the gaiety of 
the two great watering places, are intended to apply 
only when they are the fashionable resorts of those 
throngs of visitors which every season -'.ppear at one or 
both of them. The changes in f shion which lead all 
the world sometimes to prefer one and sometimes the 
other, and sometimes to divide their visits equally be- 
tween them both, are of so unaccount ble a natur'^, that 
it is irHpossible for any one to divine them, or, with any 
coufideuce to hazard a conjecture far into futurity 
Seven or eight years ago, Ballston was the general ren- 
dezvous; but Saratoga soon afterwards drained it of its 
company, and m lintained its superiority in this particu- 
lar until near 'he close of the last season, (1824,) when 
iS'rtHs iS'o//ci wa-^ filled o an overflow, and most of the 
other houses at Balls o . were crowded with visitors If 
therefore the remarks heretofore made, concerning the 
liveliness and gaiety of either of these places, should at 
any tim j appear inapplicable, it may be rememb'n-ed 
ihat they have been often true of both, aiid doubtless 
v,-ill be so again. 

The Reading Room. 

Here, as well as at Ballston, a Reading Room is kept, 
where strangers will find newspapers from different 
i>arts of the country, and where they will be able to sup- 
ply themselves with books of different descriptions, to 
beguile their few leisure hours. The Reading Room is 
at the Book Store, a little beyond the United States 
Hotel. 

A List of Strangers will also be found at the same 
place, into which the arrivals and departures of visitors 
are copied once a day, from the books of the four princi- 
pal houses. If any one expects to meet a friend here, 
or wishes to learn whether he has already left Saratoga 
K'> ^.a? on-ly to refer to this list and look for hi? iiamf 



TRAVELLER- ill 

THE BATTLE GROU^^D. 

The defeat of General Burgojaie in the year I7v7 took 
place a tew miles east Irom the Springs. Tiie two bat- 
tles wi-iich he fought with the American army vmder 
General Gates, are commonly blended into one, and 
called the Battle of Saratoga. To spnik *trictly, how- 
ever, they should bear the name of Bemis's Heights, 
where they actually took place; though the name of 
.'Saratoga bears so fine a sound, that there seems on the 
•whole [ittle to be gained by the change. 

Th€ field of battle having been already described, as 
w^ell as the bloodshed and the victories of those impor- 
tant days, the visitor is referred to pages 85 and onwards 
for an account which will aid him m tracmg out the vari- 
ou' po^ 'ons and sites with distiuctnes s and interest. 

It IS proper to remark, however, that from Saratoga 
the visitor approaches the field in a different direction 
from that assumed by the description above alluded to ; 
and that Smith's inn, where he stop?, is the identical 
building in v/hich Gen. Burgoyne had his quarters, and 
which was then known as " Swoids' House." It was a 
little in the rear oi the British L nes,as described in Bur- 
goyne's history of his campaign, and has suffered no 
material alter, tion since, except by a removal from its 
original situation. 

After satisfying himself with an examination of this in- 
teresting vicinity, referring, as above recommended, to 
the description given some pages back, the traveller, if 
going northward, will pass over the route by which 
Gen. Burgoyne approached, and subsequently retreated 
immediately after tiie battle of October 7th- 

SCHUYLER'S VILLE, 

6 miles from th« battle ground. At this village is the 
placc; where Gen. Bia^oyne was forced to stop on hi.^ 
retreat, on account of the flood m Fish Creek, the outlet 
of Saratoga Lake; and at Fort Hardy, which tlien stood 
on Its banks, he surrendered to Gen. Gates on the 17thOct. 
The traces of his camp are still very discernable, m em- 



il2 THE NORTHERV 

hankments, ditcliea, &;c. and the house ia which he had 
his head quarters is also remaining, although in a very- 
dilapidated state. 

THE BRITISH CA:MP, 

one mile from the Fishkill, and opposite the BatenkiU 
creek. From the hill where the British encamp- 
ment was formed, which is about an extensive view may 
be had back upon the route towards Bemis's Heights. 
Gen. Burgoyne occupied the night of Oct. 8th and the 
following day in getting to this place, although it is but 
6 miles, on account of the miserable state of the roads. 
Here he was detained for several days by the swelling of 
the waters of the creek ; and when he crossed the stream, 
lie left his hospital, with 300 sick and wounded, who 
were treated by Gen. Gates with every attention. 

Here the further retreat was cut off; for the Ameri- 
cans were found in possession of the fords of the Hudson. 
Gen. Burgojme therefore took his last position ; and 
Gen. Gates formed his camp behind, while Morgan took 
post on the west and north of the British, and Gen. Fel- 
lows, with 3000 men, was stationed on the opposite side 
of the river. American troops were also in Fort Ed- 
ward, and on the high ground towards Lake George. 

THE SURRENDER, 

While remaining in this situation, the British were 
continually exposed to the fire of their enemies, as well 
as reduced by want of provisions. Six days passed thus ; 
when, on the 17th of October, 1777, a convention was 
signed, and the army being marched to the meadow 
near Old Fort Hardy, piled their arms and surrendered 
prisoners of war. 

The House of Gen. ScnrYLEu 

stood on the spot now occupied by that of his son. U 
was burnt by Burgoyne on his retreat : notwithstanding; 



TRAVELLEE. 113 

';:\-hich the British officers were afterwards received at 
his house in Albanj', aud treated with g;reat kiuchiess, 

REMARKS ON THE ROUTES. 

NORTH. Three great routes from the Springs to» 
ward.- ttie north may be particularized, although they 
run aimost dda by side, and all unite on arriving at 
Lake Champlain. 1st. I'he fashionable route, to Cald- 
Wfiii on Lake George. 2d. The Northern, or Cham- 
plaiu Canal. 3d, The road to Whitehall, the direct 
route ou the way to Montreal. 

Th3^"r5; oi these is usually travelled by strangers of 
taste and leisure, as it conducts directly to the fine 
§c nery oi Lake George, and the battle grounds in its 
vicin.ty ; and passes n:ar several other spots of high in- 
terest tbr their historical associations. It is with a par- 
ticular view to this route that the places soon to be men- 
tioned will be arranged and described. Even if a jour- 
nej to Montreal is intended, it can hardly be too urgent- 
ly pressed upon the stranger to devote a leisure day or 
two to Lake George on his way, as he will find himself 
most amply rewarded, and can join the gi-eat route with 
facility. 

The second route,, by the Northern Canal, may be met 
near the battle groimd at Berais's Heights, but it has 
hitherto offered in this part no boat expressly for passen- 
gers, although there is one betv^een Fort Edward and 
Whitehall, which meets the Chttmplain steam boat. 
in fine weather, however, gentlemen may travel very 
pleasantly for a few miles in the common freight boats. 

The third route is the road to Whitehall, which is fur- 
nished with public carriages from the Springs during the 
•warm season, and, like the Canal, passes near some of 
the interesting places to be mentioned hereafter. From 
Whitehall the traveller may proceed down Lake Cham- 
plain in the steam boat, or by land in the mail-coach. 

EAST. Travellers wishing to go to any part of the 
country in this direction, may take their choice of seve- 
ral routes. Lines of stage coaches run to Connecticut 
River from Burlington, Middlebury, Castleton, and 
K2 



114 THE^'ORTHEIiL^ 

Granville, as well as from Troy and Albany, iu vanous 
directions — to Hanover, Brattlebovongh, GreenfieW. 
Northampton, Springfield, Hartford ; and there sub- 
dividing into nnmcrous ramifications, offer the means of 
• •onveyance to every part of New Eng;land. The.-r; 
routes are more particularly described under the head 
of" Roads" in the Index. 

To meet either of these routes it will be necessary to 
proceed to some point north or south of the Springs, for 
which public carriages are established in several direc- 
tions from Saratoga and Ballston, concerning which ar- 
rangements may be made at the bar of the house where 
the stranger is lodged. 

It is also important to mention, that two lines of coaches 
run along the courses of Hudson River and Wood Creek, 
one on each side ; and that the eastern one carries the 
mail through Caatleton, Middlebury, Burlington, &c. 
along the course of Lake Champlain, though generally at 
too great a distance to command a view of it. The coun- 
try there is very fine, the villages beautiful and the sur- 
face frequently mountainous. This road meets several 
of the eastern roads ; but the traveller will probably pre- 
fer to take the steam boat, as he can land at the most im- 
portant point?. 

The most interesting route that can be chosen by a man 
of taste, from the springs to Boston, is through Vermont to 
the white moimtains, and Winnipiseogee Lake in New 
Hampshire. He may take what road he pleases to Con- 
necticut River ; and then proceeding to Bath on its eas- 
tern shore, pursue the course of the lower Ammonoosuc 
River along an improving road to Ethan A. Crawford's 
lionse among the White Mountains. 

As lists of places and distances on the most important 
routes are given in different places in this book, the travel- 
ler is once more referred to the Index at the end of the 
volume, for any further information he wishes to obtain 
on this subject. 

For the roads leading SOUTH and WEST from the 
Springs, he is referred directly to Ballston, Avhere those 
routes are particularly mentioned and described. 

If he has never visited the Baitk Ground at Bcmis^s 
Heights^ or, ai5it is usually called, of Saratoga, it may be 



TRAVELLER. 115 

recommended to him to take that interestmg place in his 
way, and to refer to pages 85 and 1 1 1 for the description of. 



EXCURSIOxX TO LAKE GEORGE. 

This is by far the most delightful as well as fashionable 
excursion which can be made from the springs in any di- 
rection, as it abounds with some of the finest scenery in 
the United States, as well as in numerous sites and ob- 
jects intimately connected With the history of the country. 

From the time of the earliest wars between the British 
colonies and the French in Canada tc that of 1 756,the tract 
over which our present route lies was the high road of 
war. It was traversed by many a hostile expedition, in 
which the splendor and power of European arms, mingled 
with the fierce tactics of savage wariors : the ruins of 
their fortresses are still to be traced in many places, and 
tradition points to many a spot that has been spriniiled 
with their blood. During the Revolution also, some of 
the important events in our history took place in this 
neighbourhood. The Battle of Saratoga and the defeat 
of General Burgoyne has been already dwelt upon ; but 
we shall have to refer more than once to his expedition as 
we pass other scenes with which the events of it are con- 
nected. 

The journey to Montreal maybe made hy the way of 
hake George', and to those ■who may prefer this route, it 
may be mentioned, at this time, that the scene of IVIc. 
Donnough's victory in the late war, lies on Lake Cham- 
plain. 

On leaving Saratoga for Lake George, the traveller 
enters upon an extensive tract of the most uninteresting 
country. All the way to Glenn's Falls tiie road lies across 
a pine plain almost without cultivation and inhabitants, 
where the wheeis dr >g heavily through the sand, and the 
view is confined on both sides by the forest. Far from 
proving a tedious ride, however, it is often enlivened 
with the p esen-e of cheerful parties ; for the summer 
is not the season nor this region the place for ennui, ex- 
cept to those whom ill health or unhappinesshas unfitted 
for the gay society which here abounds. 



ns THE NORTHERN 

GLENN'S FALLS, 18 milesfmn Saratoga, 

On arriving at this place the stranger is presented witli 
a wild and striking scene, which produces a more strong 
and agreeable impresssio;i from its contrast with the 
monotony of his journey. The Hudson River opens to 
view, with a handsome little village on its banks, where 
the water is prec pitated over a broken precipice form- 
ing a desce t of 40 feet, and which it overspreads with 
a sheet of foam as whi e as snow. On both sides of the 
river below, the banks are high, steep and rocky, cut 
and worn away in a surprising manner by the long and in- 
cessant operation of the current, which s ill rushes along 
beneath, and continues its ction u on the hard channel. 
The dark colour of the lime stone rocks adds by contrast 
to the pure whiteness of the cataract; and the height of 
the bridge which stretches across just above, gives the 
scene a degree of terror by it appearance of insecurity. 

A little below the falls is a rock of singular form and 
appearance, rising from the middle of the channel, 
through which a cavern has been formed by the water, 
opening upon the two opposite sides, as if rudely cut out 
by the hand of man. Here as well as in other places 
along the stream, the most singular app arance has been 
given to the rocks by the force of the water, which pro- 
duces even on the surface of the hardest stones, a rough 
and undulated surface, resembling that of the agitated 
fluid itself. 

A feeder has been begun at Glenn's Fall's, to convey a 
supply of water to Fort Edward. 

[SANDY HILL, 3 miles eastward. 

This village is pleasantly situated at the next ftiU in 
the river below. The cascade is less remarkable as an 
object of curiosity and interest, but is still worthy of at- 
tention if the stranger have sufficient tine at his disposal. 
He will also find several other remarkable objects be- 
low ; and if he should be on his return from Lake George, 
and wishes to visit this part of the canal, the Field of 
Surrender^ or the Battle Grovnrl, before reaching Sara- 



TRAVELLER. 117 

loga or Ballston, be will find it convenient to follow the 
course of the river. 

For a description of the principal scenes of this route, 
see pages 130 on the return to Saratoga.] 

Between Glenn's Falls and Lake George, there are 
two or three spots worthy of particular attention ; but 
the whole distance will be regarded with feelings of un- 
common interest, as lying near and upon some of the 
routes traversed, at various periods, by the military par- 
ties and the large armies set in motion by the plans of 
war and led across these eventful regions. The great 
routes between Hudson river and the Lakes, indeed 
lay several miles east of this, by Fort Edward, Fort 
Anne, and Skeensborough, which is now called White- 
hall ; but that was not the most direct route to Lak© 
George, which was for a time considered as a point of 
considerable importance. 

When Gen. Burgoyne began his retreat from Bemis's 
Heights in October, 1777, General Gates dispatched seve- 
ral bodies of troops to intercept his passage. The Hud- 
son River was strongly guarded at Fishkill, as well as 
some other points ot the greatest importance ; and to 
prev-^ent his escape by the way of Lake George, the high 
ground along this route was occupied by the Americans- 
As the surrender of his army took place at Fort Hardy, 
however, no blood was spilt here. 

The first primitive rocks will be discovered in pro- 
ceeding towards the Lake, 

ROCKY BROOK, 6 miles. 

There is a small stream to be passed about 4 miles this 
side of Lake George, which has been rendered famous 
by a severe action fourht near it, in 1756, between 
Gen. Dieskau and a detachment from General Johnson's 
army, near the beginning of the " French War." 

A particular account of the whole expedition will be 
given under the "Battle of Lakk Geo; ge," afew pages 
further on, so that a few words will be sufficient in this 
place. 

General Dieskau had come from Canada with a large 
army originally intended for an attack on Oswego^ 



IVd Till: NORTHERN 

a fort on Lake Ontario. He had heard 'hat the English, 
had assembled alarge force under GeneralJohnson, and 
therefore directed his course towards Fort Edward. 
He had landed however at South Bay, and was on 
his march for Fort Edward, before he learned that 
the great body of his enemies had gone on to Lake 
Geor;e ; and the Canadian portion of his troops being 
struck with dread at the report that the Fort was well 
supplied with cannon, objected to attaking it. He there- 
fore changed his route, and proceeded to Lake George. 

General Johnson was ajiprised of his approach in time 
to dispatch Colonel Williams against him, who, with a 
body of civilized troops, and a con iderable number of 
Indians of the Five Nations, under the command of the 
famous warrior Hendrick, encountered the French near 
Rocky Brook, but in circumstances very unfavourable 
to the former. 

General Dieskau, on hearing of Colonel Williams's 
design, drew up his troops in the form of a crescent, 
with the horse towards the enemy, and thf centre cross- 
ing the road. The depth of the forest shadv was a suffici- 
ent concealment; and Col. Williams had no warning of 
the ambush until he had penetrated beyond its wings, 
and was alarmed with a sudd n and fatal fire from the 
front andboth flanks. His men fought with desperation, 
but courage and strength cannot avail against an invis- 
ible foe. The bat:le was obstinate, and the slaughter 
dreadful. Hendrick the warrior and oi'ator — Hendrick 
fell mortally wounded, by a shot in the back, from one 
of the wings of the cresent, and died, lamenting that 
death should not have met him in the lace, and be- 
queathed to his memory more fully the honors of a 
soldier. 

Colonel Williams also fell while bravely leading on his 
soldiers; and Colonel Whiting, who succeeded him in 
the command, with the most admirable coolness and 
bravery, collected the remains of the dispersed English, 
and forcing his way through the enemy, retreated to 
the main body at the head of Lake George. 

BLOODY POND 

is a small sheet of water at a little distance from the 
road ; and derives its name from having been made the 



'^ 



TKAVELLEK, Hi* 

great burying place of the soldiers, who fell in both ar- 
mies during this bloody conflict. 

LAKE GEORGE. 

The village of Caldwell is the place at which the visi- 
tor will stop to take a view of this charming lake, and 
from which he will make his excursions across its beau- 
tiful waters. The village stands at the south end of the 
lake, and on its shore, commanding a fine view of the 
neighbouring sheet of water and the mountains by which 
it is almost enclosed. T:.e inn to which strangers re- 
sort occupies a spot peculiarly fitted to gratify the eye 
of taste, as it overlooks the lake, for several miles, and 
the view is not interrupted by any neighbouring obsta- 
cle. A more delightful place can hardly be found in the 
United States, for the temporary re?idence of one w^ho 
takes delight in scenery of this description and loves to 
j-ecur to deeds long past, and to exploits great in them- 
selves and important in their results, even to the present 
day. 

Lake George is 34 miles long, and its greatest breadth 
4. At the south end it is oi.ly about one mile broad : 
and the greatest depth is 60 fathoms. The water is re- 
raakable for its purity — a fish or a stone may be seen at 
the depth of 20 or 30 feet. It is undoubtedly supplied by 
springs from below, as the water is coldest near the bot- 
tom. It contains trout, bass and perch. There are deer 
in the neighbouring forest. The outlet which leads to 
Lake Champlain contains three large falls and rapids. 
The lake never rises more than two feet. 

" The three best points of view are at Fort George, a. 
place north of Shelving Rock, 14 miles, and another at 
Sabbath-day point, 21 miles, from the head of the Lake. 
The last view is taken southward, the other two north- 
ward. 

This beautiful basin with its pure crystal water is 
bounded by two ranges of mountains, which in some 
places rising with a bold and hasty ascent from the water, 
and in others descending with a graceful sweep from a 
great height to abroad and level margin, furnish it with 
a charming varloty of scenery, which every change c i 



120 THE NORTHERN 

weather, as well as every change of position presents i« 
new and countless beauties. The intermixture of culti- 
vation with the wil' scenes of nature is extremely agree- 
able ; and the undulating sirface of the well tilled farm 
is often contrasted with the deep shade of the native 
forest, and the naked, weather beaten cliffs, where no 
vegetation can dwell. 

The Islands 

are an important feature in the scenery of the Lakes. 
They are yet unnumbered, and as different in their size 
and varied in their appearance as countless for their 
multitude. Some are bare and rocky, others invested 
with verdure ; some rise from the water with a green 
and gentle swell, others overhang it with a broken pre- 
cipice. To a stranger who visits Lake George under a 
clear sky, and sails upon its surface when the morning or 
evening sun throws over it a slanting light, the place 
seems one of the most mild and beautiful on earth ; but 
if he shouid i.ave an opportunity to witness the solem- 
nity with which a storm approaches, and the fury with 
which the elements often wage their war among these 
wild and desolate mountains, it will seem to have lost 
its originally character, and to present only the sublime 
and the terrible aspects of natuve. 

The opposite print may afford some idea of this charm- 
ing scenery ; but no exertion of art can produce anything 
fit to be called a resemblance of such a noble exhibition 
of the grand and beautiful features of creation. 

Crystals are found in many of the islands ; but there is 
one which has been particularly famous for yielding 
them, as circumstances have formerly brought it more 
under the observation of strangers. An acquatic excur- 
sion among the islands and along the various points of 
the shore, particularly if the weather be as fine as it often 
is, may be recommended to every traveller of taste or 
science, as well Avorthy his regard. The Geology and 
botanyof the vicinity, the pleasures of shooting and fish- 
ing, combined with the peculiar charms of the scene- 
ry, which are redoubled by the difl'ercnt points of view- 
all these are ready, to attract the mind that seeks mere 
recreation, or to furnish the superior enjoyment': of sei- 
cncp. ».n(\ tastp. 



TKAVELLEK. 121 

Geology. 

Among the most interesting minerals found here, 
are the crystals of quatrz, dove-coloured marble, epidote, 
feldspar, hematite, plumbago, he. he. Magnetic iron is 
found at Crown Point. 

Fort George commands the finest view of the Lake 
itself, overlookin .; it for an extent of fourteen miles, to- 
gether with the Norti-West Bay, a range of mountains 
for 25 miles, and six islands. Mount Putnam, on the end 
of the peninsula, is seen in the back ground, and Shel- 
ving Rock projects into the lake from the eastern side. 
» The view from Sabbath-day Point is not equal to the 
others ; but the two mountains known by the name of 
Anthony's nose and Rodgers' Rock are prominent ob- 
jects. The latter derives its name from a Major Rogers, 
who was attacked here by a party of Indians in the Re- 
volutionary war. He escaped, with a small part of his 
company, by passing secretly down a narrow valley on 
the south side, about 150 yards from the precipice which 
looks upon the lake, the Indians supposing he had fallen 
from the rocks. 

This beautiful Lake was first named Lake Sacrament 
by the French, as it is said, either because the water was 
used by the priests to supply their founts, or because its 
purity rendered it peculiarly fit for that purpose. The 
transparency of the water seems to add a richness to the 
place. 

There is hardly a region in the world where the din 
and bustle of military operations would seem more en- 
tirely opposed to the character and impression of the 
natural scenery than at Lake George. The lofty amphi- 
theatre of mountains which surround it, raise their heads 
to a sublime elevation, as if to seclude the place from 
the notice of the world, and to contain Avithin its bounds 
the calm enjoyments of the few who tread its romantic 
shores. But even in this far and still retreat, War has 
often intruded with her thrilling trumpet and her flash- 
ing steel ; and though the pure lake long since has lost 
the hue of her crimson currents, the traces of her iron 
footsteps will long remain upon the sloping margin. 

Although Lake George, in ancient times, lay between 
'Ii9 hostile tribes of the Five Nations and tlie Arond-.- 
i. 



122 THE iSORTHERIS 

acks, who waged long and bitter war before the country 
was ever visited by our European ancestors, tradition 
has nothing to tell us of deeds of renown, which fancy 
loves to suggest may have been performed on its waters. 
The first martial scene which history relates of this vici- 
nity took place in 1609, (the year before the discovery 
of the North River by Henry Hudson,) when Monsieur 
Champlain, in exploring the country, met a pi rty of 
Iroquoise, or Indians of the Five Nations, on the borders 
of this lake, and put them to flight with the sound oi 
his fire arms, before that period unheard by those brave 
but simple warriors. 

Battle of Lake George. 

In 1755, the year after the commencement of what 
we call the " Old French War,'" 3000 men were seni 
out from France to Quebec, for the purpose of taking 
Oswego Fort. This was situated at the mouth of Oswe- 
,^0 or Onondago river, and on the shore of Lake Ontario 
The position derived its consequence from circumstance? 
which no longer exist : The Indian trade from up the 
Lakes, the facility of communication with the Five Na 
tions through this place, and the peculiar nature of the 
shores of Lake Ontario, which would not permit < anoc 
navigationon the other side. There the two great branch 
€s of Indian trade concentrated ; and the nation whicli 
held possession of the point must necessarily sway e 
great influence over the Indians themselves : an advan 
tage frequently of still greater 'm.'ilance to the countiy 
Oswego Fort naturally became an object to bcLa fhe 
French and the English at that time, and it formed a 
prominent figure in the history of the war. Being ir 
quiet possession of the little fortress at the commence 
ment of hostilities, its defence might doubtless hav'c 
been easily secured, had their operations been conduct 
ed with common prudence and energy. Unfortunatelj 
they were conducted in a very different manner ; anc 
whoever would see a clear and able history of the firs 
English expeditions in that v/ar, and of the political par 
fy spirit which then ruled in this country and rendere(J 
them worse than ineffectual, is referred to "4 LfJter f^ 
'f Jjordy writte.n ^of^n ^fi*^!- 



TRAVELLER, U:^ 

In 1755 Gen. Johnson, (^afterwards Sir William,) 
marched to the south end of Lake George with a consi- 
derable number of men, joined by the famous Capt. 
Hendrick, with many Indians of the Five Nations, in- 
tending to take Fort Frederick, now Crown Point. Gen. 
Dieskau was sent to oppose him, with 3000 men, prin^ 
cipally taken from a body of French troops sent out to 
Quebec, 600 of whom had fallen into the hands of Admi! 
ral Boscawen at sea. Dieskau had first designed to be- 
seige Fort Oswego. At Fort FredericK or Crown Point, 
he remained some time, and then determined to go and 
meet the English. He therefore went up the South 
Bay, where learning the situation of Fort Lyman, (now 
Fort Edward,) he wished to attack it and cut off the 
retreat of Gen. Johnson. The Indians and Canadians, 
however, were in dread of the cannon with which it was 
supposed to be defended, and he was obliged to march 
ag linst Johnson. 

Sunday, Sept. 7th, at midnight, a scout brought John- 
son intelligence that D eskau was coming. 1200 men 
were sent out in the morning, under the command of 
Col. Ephraim Williams, who met them at Rocky Brook, 
drawn up in a semicircle, into which the English en- 
terd before they knew it. A heavy fire from three sides 
first showed them t e position of their '^nemies. The 
English stood their ground valiantly ; but Col. Williams 
and Hendrick being both shot down, together with many 
others, they were obliged to begin their retreat, which 
was condu ted by Col. Whiting with the greatest cool- 
ness and su; cess. 

The centre of the English army was posted on the hill 
where Fort George now stands, and the French were 
discovered by them at half past 11. Dieskau halted at the 
sight of his enemies, probably entertaining some mista- 
ken idea of the strengt of tneir position, and gave them 
time to recover from their panic. The ground on both 
sides of the English camp was marshy and covered with 
trees, and Dieskau sent his Indians out on the right flank 
and the Canadians on the left o surround them. Col. 
Pomeroy however soon put the former to flight with a 
few cannon shots. Dieskau then brought up his troops 
in front and made them fire by platoons, with very little 



124 THE NORTHERlN 

f-.ffect. Gen. Johnson, (happily for his own troops,) was 
slightly wounded in the thigh, and had to walk back to 
his tent, leaving the command with Gen. Lyman. He 
directed the defence for five hours, aided by Capt. Eyre's 
artillery; when the French turned upon the English 
right, which consisted ol Ruggles's, Pomeroy's and Tit- 
comb's regimets, and extended from the road to where 
Fort Wm. Henry was afterwards built. Here they 
fought an hour, but the English and ladians charging 
them, they took to flight and many were killed. Gen. 
Dieskau himself was found leaning agaist a stump wound- 
ed — a soldier approaching saw him put his hand to his 
waist, to take out his watch which he intended to offer 
to hira, and supposing he was drawing a pistol, shot him 
through the thigh. He was carried to the fort by eight 
men in a blanket, and it is said deterred Johnson from 
ordering a pursuit, by saying he had a strong force near 
at hand. Gen. Lyman urj^ed to follow up their victory; 
but that was probably a sufficient reason for its being ' 
refused by a superior officer, who looked upon his light 
talents with jealousy, and, in spite of the advantage the 
country had derived from his services, at a time when 
they were peculiarly valuable, did not even mention the 
name of Gen. Lyman in his account of the battle! — 
Johnson was made a Baronet, and Lyman lingered out 
a few years in poverty and disappointment, and died 
without receiving even the notice of the British govern- 
ment. 

The English are said to have lost only 216 in killed 
and 96 wounded. Gen. Dieskau estimated his own loss 
at 1000 — the English called it much less. The .rinci- 
pal were a Maj. General, and M. de St. Pierre the com- 
mander of the Indians. The French lost their baggage 
during the action, left two miles in their rear, it being 
attacked by Captains Folsom and Mc Gnnies with about 
100 iSfew-York troops; who then lay in wait for the re- 
treating French, and killed great numbers of them. 

Gen Johnson might have taken Crown Point; but he 
delayed so long, that the French advanced to Ticonde- 
roga and there fortified themselves securely. 

But the Battle of Lake George is not the only nor the 
most sanguinary scene of fornjcr times which the travel ' 
if^r hris to trace on this sadly interestins; spot. The histo-- 



TRAVELLER. 125 

vy of the French War recites a melancholy tale of blood 
."hed here, only two years afterwards, in 

THE CAPTURE AND MASSACRE OF FORT 
WILLL\M HENRY. 

So different was the state of the country sixty years 
ago, and so much in its infancy was the art of war in 
these wild regions, that a small work of earth thrown up 
on this site and called Fort Wm. Henry was regarded as 
a fortress of considerable strength and consequence. It 
is indeed faroverlooked by the neighbouring high ground, 
but probably the difficulty of dragging cannon over rocks 
and hills covered with forests was then considered a 
sufficient obstacle to its performance, and probably for 
this reason Oswego fort was built in a similar situation 
and left so till taken by the French. 

In 1757 the Earl of Loudon, British commander in 
Chief in America, made an unsuccessful attempt by sea 
against Louisburgh ; and before his return to New York 
in August, th French from Ticonderoga under the Mar- 
quis de Montcalm, had made three attacks on Fort Wm. 
Heniy. On the 1st of August they set out again, andland- 
ed at Frenchman's point. On the evening of the 2d they 
crossed to the west side of Lake George, within two 
miles of the fort, and the next morning sent in their sum- 
mons. Col. Monroe defended himself resolutely for six 
days, hoping relief from Col. Webb and his 6000 men at 
Fort Edward ; but having waited in vain, and burst ten 
of his largest cannon, he was obliged to surrender, and 
marched out with the honours of war and an assurance 
of being protected from the Indians in Montcalm's army. 
He had gone but a litt : way however, when ihe sava- 
ges fell upon his troops and butchered about 1500, men, 
women and children. *'I was a little child," says Dr. 
Dwight, "when it took place, and distinctly remember 
the strong emotions which it every where excited, and 
which hitherto time has not been able to efface. From 
that time to the present it has been ephatically known 
by the appellation of the Massacre at Fort William 
Henry." 

Gen. Webb's conduct was most inhuman. The pro- 
L2 



h2(i THE NORTHERN 

vincial troops were kept under arms for one whole day 
after the news of the siege arrived at Fort Edward, and 
Sir Wm. Johnson was very desirous to march with them, 
to its relief; but Webb ordered them back to their quar- 
ters, and sent a messenger to Col. Monroe advising him 
to surrender. 

ATTACK ON FORT TICONDEROGA, 

The south end of Lake George was the scene of a 
splendid embarkation on the 4th of July of the follow- 
ing year, [1758,] when 10,000 provincial troops and 6 or 
7000 regulars assembled at this place to proceed against 
Ticonderoga.* 1035 boats were drawn up to the shore 
one clear delightful summer morning, and were speedi- 
ly filled with tills powerful army, excepting oiily a small 
body left Avith the baggage. Success was confidently 
expected, and the appearance of the train was more like 
that of a triumphal return from war. The boats were 
decorated with gaudy streamers, and the oars moved to 
martial music. 

The traveller will follow their route in the steam boat 
for which see beyond, page 129. 

They landed at the north end of the lake on the fol- 
lowing morning, and were ordered to march on in four 
columns. The obstructions of the forest however, soon 
broke their ranks ; when Lord Howe and his centre col- 
umn falling in with the enemy's advance guard, who 
were on their retreat and bewildered, was attacked with 
a sudden war whoop and immediately killed. The pro- 
vincials were accustomed to the woods, and drove back 
their enemies, killing about 300, and taking 148 prison- 
ers, and all returned to the landing. In the morning CoL 
Bradstreet took possession of the mill at the great falls on 
the river, and the army were soon brought up to the 
French lines, which were thrown up across the isthmus 
and not finished. This intrenchment is still to be seen 
in tolerable preservation. It had two redoubts, and a 
deep abattis, and is said to have been 8 or 9 feet high, 

* Lord Howe who accompanied this expedition was a young no- 
bleman of amiable disposition and the most prepossessing maners, 
and was almost idoli,-:ed by the army, as well as admired and loved 
I'y the coiintrv. 



14 



'*'i^*.. 



Crah\ 

Vahi 






,^^^ 



Ik. 



^'^ 



'Ojiy 






10 



I 



Jfforffj, 




TRAVELLER. 127 

though that seems improbable. The attack was vigor- 
ous and the defence obstinate. The battle continued 
four hours, during which the English were repulsed three 
times. A cannon or two on Mount Defiance would have 
cleared the peninsula. The Highland regiment distin- 
guished itself, and suffered severely. The English loss, 
in all, was 1944, principally regulars ; the French very tri- 
fling, although they are said not to have imagined the 
defence possible. Their force is so differently stated 
that it is not easy to decide whether itw^as 1200 or 6000. 
Notwit':!standing his superiority of force, Abercrombie 
shamefully ordered a retreat; and thus terminated the 
operations of the year. 

The scene presented to the stranger on this spot is 
of a character strongly contrasted "with the tumultuous 
military deeds which have rendered it famous. The 
neighbouring mountams, indeed, are almost as wild and 
solitary as they were at that time ; but the hand of cul- 
tivation has been gradually levelling the forest that once 
covered the valley, and taught the level fields the ?mile 
of fertility and peace. The old embankment may still 
be traced quite across the isthmus, and the visitor ma\ 
easily fancy he discovers points where the [ittucks of the 
assailants were most furiously directed ; but no tradition, 
it is believed has been found, to assist the imagination, by 
pointing out any particular spot as the scene of an indi- 
vidual's triumph or full. 

On entering the farm of Blr. "William F. I^ell of New 
York, which includes the rest of tlie peninsula, the eye is 
immediately struck with the regularity of the ground, 
which, for an extent of 640 acres, seems Avorthy to be 
selected for a parade ; and every one must reflect v/ith a 
new interest on the deeds of arms which have been per- 
formed on this beautiful plain. The stillness which 
usually pervades the place, combined with the idea of 
seclusion and loneliness produced by the surrounding 
mountains, naturally disposes the maid to a kind of ro- 
mantic musing, which awakens at once the excitement, 
and the ardour of battle, keeping out of sight all sober 
reflections on the real merits of the cause, as v/ell as the 
waste of blood and the bitterness of private sufferings, 
and throwing upon the scene the gaiety and brilliancy 
of a tournament. There are few sites in our country 



Vm THE NORTHERN. 

that can be compared with this for a combination of na- 
tural and moral interest. It is true, that the deeds with 
which it is connected cannot boast of the antiquity which 
migles with Euprcpean scenes; for their history is far 
older than even our most reverend traditions ; but here we 
contemplate the events of a past generation, among cir- 
cumstances widely different, and when the interests of 
that period, no less than the individuals themselves, have 
long disappeared, and are revived only by the aid of 
imagmation. 

But Ticonderoga is celebrated for other and more re- 
cent events than those of the French war. At the com- 
mencement of tlie revolution, this fortress, v/ith that of 
Crown Point, was surprised by Colonels Allen and Ar- 
nold in May, 1775, and held by the United States until 
taken by General Burgoyne in 1777. 

The sketch which has been already given of his expedi- 
tion need not be here repeated. Ticonderoga had been 
considerably strengthened by new works, and the coun- 
try placed great confidence in its strength, as well as in 
the ability of General St. Clair, who was placed in 
the command. The fortress was invested on the 1st and 
2d of July. On the 4th the British had taken a post on 
the summit of Mount Defiance, which rises within 1400 
yards of the peninsula, and t^o entirely commands it as 
to render any further defence utterly hopeless. The 
following night therefore. General St. Clair blew up the 
fortress, evacuated Ticouderoga, and proceeded down 
Lake George, leaving this key of the country in the 
enemies' hands, and spreading terror and dismay by his 
precipitate retreat. 

The last period of importance in the history of this 
place, is tlie recovery of it by General Arnold, who took 
it by surprise in October, 1777, after the defeat of Bur- 
goyne. The fortress still wears a formidable appearance, 
having been built after the European fashion prevalent 
in those days, and presenting a great display of massive 
stone-work, from the foundation to the summit. The 
elevation which it occupies is commanding when viewed' 
from, the water, and the marks of fire which still remain 
on the ruins, add to its venerable aspect. The subterra- 
iiean magazines are in good preservation, with store- 



TllAVELLER. 129 

liouses and kitchens, likewise under ground. The cover- 
ed ways and advanced works are also substantially builL 
of stone ; and the main building will be viewed as a cu- 
riosity by those who are not familiar with large military 
edifices. The south gate is m pretty good preservation, 
and is that by which Arnold entered when he surprised 
the garrison. 

On the shore below is an old stone storehouse. Across 
the river is an inn; and those who are willing to undertake 
the ascent of Mount Defiance will find there the re- 
mains of the British battery. The rocks on the penin- 
sula are black limestone- 



STEAM-BOAT ON LAKE GEORGE. 

The steam-boat leaves Caldwell at 7 A. M. Tuesdays 
and Saturdays, for Ticonderoga ; and returns on the same 
days, leaving Ticonderoga at 2 P. M. 

STEAM-BOAT ON LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 

This boat leaves Whitehall Thursdays and Saturdays 

at 2 P. M. for St. John's, and stops at the following- 
places : 

Ticonderoga, - - - - 24 m. price |,'l 50 

Crown Point, - - - - 13 " 1 00 

Basin Harbour, - - - 12 " 50 

Essex, 10 '' 50 

Burlington, ... - 14 " 50 

Port Kent, 16 '' G 50 

Plattsburgh, - - - - 8 '^ 50 

Chazy, .-.-.- IS " 1 00 

Champlain, Rouse's Point, 12 " 50 

St. John's in Lower Canada, '24 '* 1 50 

150 8 00 

It leaves St. John's Mondays and Fridays, at 8 A. M. 

REMARKS. 

Although manv travellers will proceed up lake Chnin* 
* 



ITJU TH£ JvORTHERN 

plain from this place, and pursue their journey to Moii- 
treal, yet the greater portion will make this the north- 
ern point of their journey, and return to the Springs. 
.For the convenience of both, we shall therefore first de- 
scribe the principal objects and scenes along the road to 
/Saratoga^ following the circuit of the Hudson. After- 
wards, (and a few pages beyond this place,) we shall be- 
gin the route from Whitehall to Montreal^ after a brief 
sketch of the direct road from the river to the former of 
these two places. 

Return from Lake George to the Springs. 

Bloody Pond, 4 miles, where the soldiers were 
thrown in, who were killed in the action between Gen. 
Dieskau and Col. Williams. See page 118. 

Rocky Brook, the place of that action. 

Glenn's Falls. 6 miles further. See page 116. 

The unvarying and uninteresting character ot the ^ 
road from this place to Saratoga, spoken of already, may ' 
plead as a second reason for choosing the route by the 
river, which is rendered unusually interestmg by passing 
Baker's Fall's, Fort Edward, Fort Miller, and the field of 
Gen. Burgoyne's surrender, besides running for some 
miles by the side of the Champlain Canal. It also pas- 
ses near the canal cut for a feeder to this great Ca- 
nal. 

SANDY HILL. 3 miles. 

The village of Sandy Hill has a thriving aspect 
and contains some very good houses. Like almost all. 
other places upon and near the canals, it already feels ] 
some of the good effects of an increased demand for the,, 
produce of the country, and a more extensive distribution-^ 
of the manufactures of distant parts of the United States 
and of the world. See page 116. 

BAKER'S FALLS 

are worthy of particular attention, and are seen to great 
advantage from some parts of the bank. The whole 
']e«=cent of the river at this place is about 75 feet, but 



TKAVELLEH. m 

does not offer so imposing a spectacle at any point as 
Glenn's Falls. The finest view is from the bank below. 



FORT MILLER. 

This place is mentioned here, because it could not be 
conveniently introduced before. The village still retains 
the name of a fort erected on the west side of the river, 
in former times. It was a work of insignificant size, 
situated on the bank of the river, and near 

MILLER'S FALLS. 

The descent of the river here is rapid, and over a bro- 
ken channel. The falls were formerly considered im- 
passable with safety, until General Putnam performed 
it while stationed at Fort Miller, in the French war. 
Had danger and difficulty not been supposed to attend the 
enterprise, Putnam would hardly have embarked in it. 
When his country commanded not his exertions, some 
degree of danger was necessary to stimulate his gigantic 
spirit ; and many a scene like this bears a tradition oi 
that hardy warrior, who would grapple with nature it- 
self when she opposed his way, and whose life is destined 
to be long the favourite model of old revolutionary 
times, at the fire-sides of New-England. He is an 
unique and consistent character — at the Horse-Neck pre- 
cipice, in the cave of the wolf, at Bunker Hill, and in 
the midnight meeting with Prcscott — he was Putnam 
every where. 

THE GREAT DAM. 

Between Baker's Falls and Fort Edward, a large and 
expensive dam has been built across the river, and a 
canal cut along the bank to open a passage for boat?. 
The dam is 900 feet long. 

FORT EDWARD. 

This village was built in the neiohbourhood of a fort 
raised during the war of 1755 for the defence of this 



132 THE NORTHERN * 

point of the river. It was first called Fort Lymau, after 
General Lyman, of whom we have already had occasion 
to make honourable mention at Lake George. This 
spot was formerly called the First Carrying Place, being 
the point where, in the expeditions against Canada, the 
the troops, stores, &:c. were landed and taken by land 
to Wood Greek, a distance of 12 miles, where they were 
again embarked. The boats which had served for the 
transportation from Albany, were frequently taken up 
and transported in their turn, particularly the birch ca- 
noes, which were provided in great numbers for the ex- 
pedition undertaken in 1711. 

[For some details concerning this expedition, see " the 
Private Journal of the Rev. Mr. Buckingham." This 
little remnant of antiquity has been lately published ia 
New- York, with " Madam KnigliCs Diary of a Journey 
from Boston to J^ew York in 1704." They both contain' 
a picture of the country which contrasts most surprising- 
ly with its present aspect.] 



THE CHAMPLALN CANAL 

leaves the Hudson P*,iver at this place, following nearly 
tlie course formerly taken to the '■• Second Carrying 
Place-^ at Foi-t Anne. Here passes the Stage Coach for 
Whitehall. 

There is a regular packet boat plying to that place on 
the canal. 

Below Fort Edward, tlie river is used as a continua- 
tion of the canal for 8 miles, to Miller's falls, where adam 
is built across to raise the water sufficiently for boats. 

The remains of the Fort are to be seen, and its size and 
figure can be easily traced. It was once in imminent 
danger of capture, by Gen. Dieskau, but preserved by 
the unexpected circumstance of the panic which seized 
many of his troops on the report that it was defended by 
carmon. It was then the only bulwark and salvation of 
the country from the evils of invasion. In 1777 it was 
taken b}-- Gen. Burgoyne. and just before that event, oc- 
fiirroiJ. 



JRAVELLLK 183 

THE xMURDER OF MISS MC. CREA. 

This melancholly tale is calculated to affect the fee- 
lings with more deep and unmingled regret, than that of 
any other of those hundreds and thousands of individu- 
als who at different periods have stained these fatal re- 
gions with their blood. It is not intended that the suf- 
ferings of Miss Mc Crea were unexampled, but that her 
histoiy and her fate have been published in detail, and 
that the :ircTimstances in which the country then was, 
made it appear but the forerunner of unbounded atro- 
cities. 

Miss Mc Crea lived in the village of Fort Edward. — 
In the revolutionary war, a young man named Jones, to 
whom she was betrothed, having attached himseK to the 
English cause and joined their forces in Canada, was 
invested v/ith a captain's command in Gen. Burgoyne's 
army. After 'he retreat of the Americans from the 
Lake, and while the British were approaching, he sent 
a party of Indians to Fort Edward to bring his intended 
bride to him, that he might secure her safety. She was 
very unwilling to leave her father's house, and hesitated 
some time before she consented to his request. She at 
length however set out to join her lover, and proceed- 
ed with her savage conductors on the road towards Fort 
Anne. They had gone only half a mile when the Indi- 
ans stopped to drink at a spring which still flows by the 
way side ; and while here were met by another party 
of Indians despatched to hasten them on. Those Avho 
came last imagining that they had a right to undertake 
the convoy of the lady, as well to receive the reward 
which might be expected on her safe arrival, attempted 
to take her under their charge ; but the others, being 
determined not to give her up alive, bound her to a 
tree that is yet standing near the spring, and shot her 
dead with their musket . Locks of her hair were borne 
to her lover, to prove that the Indians had performed 
what they considered their duty to their employer. 

This story rang through the country ; audit was re- 
ported that Gen. Burgoyne encouraged or at least per- 
mitted the murder, in indignant terms he denied the 
charge, and there appears no probaljility that he had 
M 



134 THE NORTHERIN 

the least knowledge of it before it happened. He how- 
ever was justly chargeable with a great offence against 
humanity in bringing tribes of savages in his train, whose 
barbarity he could never be sure of restraining if ever 
so much inclined to do it. With many persons in all 
parts of the country, the melancholy death of this un- 
happy young lady, raised a lively sentiment of horror 
against their enemies, and no doubt animated many a 
heart with a fresh spirit of resistance. 

Captain Jones, the unfortunate lover, is said to have 
led a heart-broken life for a few years, and at length to 
have fallen a victim to melancholy and self reproach. — 
The impression of this event must havebeen permanent ; 
for the circumstances would neither permit him to doubt 
of her attachment, nor to forget that he was the cause of 
her sufferings. 

JOURNEY TO WHITEHALL. 

Those who are going to Canada will of course go to 
Whitehall and take the steam boat for Lake Champlain, 
of which some useful information will be found on 
page 136. 

The first 12 miles are across the country by the Short- 
est route to Wood Creek. 

FORT ANNE. 

This was called the Second Carrying Place, as we 
liave before remarked, the troops and stores being for- 
merly re embarked, on the expeditions against Canada. 
The canal of course has rendered this expensive operation 
unnecessary; and goods are now transported between 
Hudson River and Lake Champlain without difficulty 
or exposure, and at a very light expense. 

From Fort Anne to Whitehall, the canal follows the 
course of Wood Creek, and the road runs for a consid- 
erable part of the way along its bank. 

WHITEHALL. 

Twelve miles by the canal ; eleven miles by the road* 
This village is situated at the extremity of East Bay, 
au arm of Lake Champlain. The Steam Boat leaves 



15 


1 


12 


50 


10 


60 


14 


50 


16 


50 


8 


50 


15 


1 


12 


50 


24 


1 50 



TRAVELLER. 135 

here every Thursday and Saturday, for St. John's, on the 
way to Montreal, and stops at the following places: 

Ticonderoga, - - 24m. price $1 50 
[See page 126 for a description 
and history of this fortess.] 

Crown Point, 

Basin Harbour, - 

Essex, 

Burlington, 

Port Kent, 

Plattsbugh, 

Chazy, 

Champlain, (Rouse's Point.) 12 

St. John's Lower Canada, 

150 8 00 

Geology. 

The rocks here are principally Stratified Gneiss. In 
going up the lake they are succeeded by lime stone. 

At Whitehall will be seen the hulks of the ships taken 
by Commodore Mc Donough from Captain Downey, on 
Lake Champlain, during the late war with Great Britain. 

Here was burnt, during the revolutionary war the 
flotilla collected for the attack of Montreal. 

[The traveller may pursue his way along the course of 
the lake by land, as there is a stage road The country 
is romantic, and the soil fertile and well cultivated ; but 
the Lake will hardly be seen at all, and the fatigue is of 
course much greater than in the steam boat. The latter 
mode must therefore be recommended for pleasure and 
convenience; and the traveller may land at any of the 
points mentioned in the list of the route. 

Roads to Connecticut River. 

There are roads with regular stage coaches establish- 
ed upon them, running from Castleton and Burlington to 
several points on Connecticut River, and either of them 
may be taken on the route to Boston. See page 113, and 
the Index. 



136 THE NORTHERN 

Castltion. 

This is a small town, but contains a medicul academy 
of some importance. 

Rulland 

is a considerable village, like many of the Vermont 
towns, with a remarkable appearance of neatness and 
beauty.] 

TICONDEROGA, 24 miles from Whitehall. 

See Page 126. 

CROWN POINT, 15 miles from Ticmderoga. 

The sight of this place, or even a glance at the situa- 
tion on the map, is suficient to show its importance as a 
military post, in those periods when the country be- 
twen Albany and Montreal was a wilderness, and no 
boundaries acknowledged between the two hostile peo- 
ple by whom they were inhabited. 

This spot, from its natural position, acquired a degree 
of importance fiom the moment that the French begaa 
their voyages of discovery and of depredation up the 
Lakes. Indeed if history could refer to stiU earlier 
times, and recount the military affa rs of the Aborigines 
before the arrival of Europeans, we should doubtless be 
able to associate many more interesting circumstances 
with this remarkable spot, 

Crown Point was frequently occupied in the early 
wars between the French and English as a place of 
landing and embarkation, and consequently as a place 
of temporary encampment and delay. In the old jour- 
nal of Mr. Buckingham, to which we have before refer- 
red, it is mentioned as the principal point against which 
the land expedition of 1711 was directed; but no regu- 
lar fort wasbuili on the spot until the year 1734 when 
the French determined to strengthen it in proportion to 
its importance. 

Here General Dieskau remained some time before he 



TRAVELLER. 137 

proceeded against General Johnson in 1755. In 1759 
Crown Point and Ticonderoga fell into the hands of the 
Englisli; and in 1775 both fortresses were surprized by 
the AmericaLs, at the commencement of the revolution- 
ary war. Two years after they both fell into the haads 
of General Burgoyne ; and soon afterwards w re sur- 
prised and taken by Coloi els Allen and Arnold. 

Every one who has an opportunity to visit the ruins 
of these fortresses, and the nteresting scenery of the 
neighbouring country, must feel a peculiar gratification 
in tracing their histosy, and entering into the detail of the 
vario. s scenes which have taken place around them. 
To such ti'avellers it will be an agreeable piece of infor- 
mation to state that a gentlemen oi talent and research 
has made a most valuable collection of original docu- 
ments relating to the French and revolutionary wars in 
this region, including field orders, surveys, &.c. together 
with military maps and drawings, and facts collected 
ivith great industry and zeal, as well from other parts of 
the country as on the spot. There is much leason to 
hope that so valuable a collection of historical matter 
will not be long in appearing to the world. The au- 
thor is General Hoyi of Deerfield, Massachusetts, the 
author of a v- ry interesting work recently published ; 
the history of the Indian Wars on Connecticut River. 

BASIN HARBOUR is 12 miles beyond. 

ESSEX, 10 miles. 

BURLINGTON. U miles 

This is a place of considerable size, and of a remarka- 
bly interesting appearance. Siiuated on the shore of 
Lake Champlain it enjoys many advantages from its 
neighbourhood; and is besides the seat of a College. 
Here will be found very good inns, and stage coaches 
traveliingboth East and South. 



BURLINGTON COLLEGE 

is an institution of considerable importance, and 
contained a large number of Students, when about two 
years ago it was unfortunately burnt to the grour.d. A 
plan has been already formed for reconstructing it on a 
rather larger scale. The two wings are t6 he begun 
AT2 



138 THE NORTHERN 

immediately, and the centre building will probably be 
constructed soon afterwards, to contain the chapel, re- 
citation rooms, &.C. 

The journey iVom Burlington to Connecticut River a- 
bounds in some of the finest romantic scenery. It lies a • 
long the course of Onion River, and for some distance 
scarcely finds room to pass between the margin of tho 
stream and the perpendicular rocks through which it has 
cut its way. The precipices rise on each side, and 
sometimes present a terrific appearance, with their over- 
hanging rocks and gloomy shades. It will add to the in- 
terest of the scenery to recollec; that the Indians used to 
pass this way in their canoes in going to Connecticut 
River for war and for tra le. 

This is a direcl road to thf^ White Mountains. 

Plattsburgh. This bay was the scene of Mc DON- 
NOUGH'S VICTORY over Captain Downey, the tro- 
phies of which were pointed out at South Bay, in the 
hulks of the English vessels captured on the occasion. 
The forts are to be seen on the hill which overlooks the 
bay and surrounding country for a great distance. 

The next place where the Steam Boat stops is the 

American Custom House. 
RousEs's Point. 

There will be seen a large Fort on the west side of 
Ihe Sorel river which was uiltby the United States for 
the protection of this important frontier position. Since 
then the boundary between the two countries has been 
laid on the 45th degree of north latitude, and the point 
and the castle left in the Canadian territory. 

Beyond this place, the traveller discovers nothing at- 
tractive in the appearance of the country for some dist- 
ance, as it is but little raised above the level of the river, 
and of course very wet. 

Isle aux Noix, 9 m. from Rouse's Point. 

Here General Schuyler remained in 1775, sick, while 
€ren. Montgomery took St. John's, Chambly. Montreal. 

Sorel and Trois Rivieres. 



JVorOv 




TRAVELLER. 139 

St. John's, 11m. beyond, 

is a village where will be seen the first British post. 
The long ranges of low buildings are barracks for sol- 
diers. This is the termination of tlie journey by water ; 
and stage coaches will be found in waiting to take the 
passengers from the steamboat to Montreal by land. 
The first part of the road is along the bank of the Sorel 
river. 

Everything the traveller now sees is calculated to re- 
mind him that he has entered a country of different peo- 
ple and different habits from those which prevail in the 
United States. If he speaks French he will find it ver}"- 
convenient, though by no means indispensable. Among 
the population, is a large share of the descendents of the 
old French inhabitants, particularly in the country ; but 
there are villages peopled from " the States," and in 
Montreal particularly most persons he meets will undpr . 
stand English. 

La Prairie, 12 m 

Here the coaches stop for the night. 

Chambly 

is the next town where is an old fort, taken by Geu 
Montgomery. Longueil. from this place is the first 
view of Montreal. That city presents a close mass of 
stone buildings, over which appear several church 
towers covered with tin, which gives them a peculiar 
brilliancy even at a great distance. The town extends 
3 miles along the river, and 1 mile back, occupying the 
rising bank and an elevation behind. The city is backed 
by a mountain, 550 feet high ; and in front of it spreads 
out the river St. Lawrence, more than two miles in 
breadth, presenting a succ ssion of rapids and numer- 
ous islands of different sizes ; while the shore below is 
ornamented with cultivated fields and the country seat's 
of many gentlemen. 



14U THE i\ORTHER2s 

The Island of St. Helena, 

is seen to great advantage in crossing the river. It is 
large and makes a conspicuous figure, rising beautifully 
I'rom the river. A fine building will be seen on the 
southern side, which is that of the Marquis Lon ueil. 
On the other side the road commands a fine view of 
the city, which from an elevation presents a most strik- 
ing appearance, with the broad expanse of water below 
and the extensive plains which bound it OMthe south. 

MONTREAL. 

One of the principal streets in the city is the street of 
St Paul, which runs parallel to the river at a little dis- 
tance from it. Here will be seen a variety of shops and 
stores, and a busy crowd continually passing along. 
The street of Notre Dame is the next large street run- 
ning parallel to this, and have the air of much more retire- 
ment and gentility, being the residence of the wealthy 
and fashionable. The other streets are generally narrow 
and dark, except a few of the new ones. The whole 
appearance of the city is substantial and permanent, the 
houses being all built of stone, and presenting it is said, 
the aspect of many places in Europe. There are many 
quaint ornaments introduced upon the walls by means of 
paint, and to make a still greater variety, some are con- 
structed of rough stone, and others coveredwith cement. 
The doors and windows are very generally guarded 
with sheet iron, bars and grates, and nets of wire ; and 
the roofs are secured against fire with tin. 

History. 

The neighbourhood of this place, according to tradi- 
tion, Avas once the residence of the Five Nations of 
Indians ; and hence they were driven to the state of 
New York by their enemies tho Arondiacks, who after- 
wards occupied it themselves. Jaques Cartier selected 
the spot for a town about 1635, and the building of it 
was begun in 1640, under the name of St. Marie. Mont- 
•^?tl continued »nthe hands of the French after the cap- 



TRAVELLER 141 

lure of Quebec by Gen. Wolfe in 1759, and the next year 
an unsuccessful expedition was undertaken from this 
city for its recovery. In September Gen. Amherst made 
his approach fromLake Ontario with more than 10,000 
men ; and having with wonderful skill, and good fortune 
landed on the 6th at La Chine, and being joined by Gen. 
Haviland' from Lake Champlain and Gen. Munyfrom 
fiuebec, entered Montreal on the 8th witliout opposition, 
and thus completed the conquest of Canada. 

FROM MOr^TREAL TO NIAGARA FALLS. 

The Lake Ontario Steam Boat goes between Sacket's 
Harbour and Niagara. 

The whole route from Montreal to the cataract of Ni- 
agara here foilo%vs. 392 miles. 

La Chine, 7 m. 

Here is a Canai. 

St. Regis, 53 

[See " Caughnawaga Indians^ 
just beyond.] 



Hamilton, 


35 


Gallop Islands; 


19 


Ogdensburgh, 


6 


Morris Town, 


12 


Cape Vincent, 


50 


Sacket's Harbour, 


20 


Oswego River, 


40 


Great Sodus Bay, 


28 


Genesee River, 


35 


:Fort Niagara, 


74 


Lewiston, 


7(see page 45) 


j?^iagara Falls, 


'7(seepage47) 



LAKE ONTARIO. 

The following is an estimate of the quantity of watei 
contained in the Lakes Ontario and Erie. 



Medium depth. 


Area 


Solid contents 




sq. feet. 


in feet. 


Ontario - 492 


200,000 millions. 


98 billions. 


Erie - - 120 


418 do 


50 do 



THE NORTHERN 14 J 

The Caughnawaga Indian:?. 

Who in habit the village of St. Regis, were collected 
there many years ago by the French priests, and adopt- 
ed the habits enjoined by the Roman Catholic system. 
They were formerly very serviceable to the French ir^ 
their frequent and blood excursions against the colonists 
of New-England, not only acting as guides to their ex- 
peditions, but attending them as warriors. The frontier 
posts of New-Hampshire and Massachusetls suffered too 
often and too severely from their attacks to endure them ' 
with patience : and they consequently used all their ex- 
ertions in the wars against Canada. Times and circum- 
stances are however since so materially altered, that the 
discendants of those very Indians have neither motive 
nor disposition to bloodshed. 

Indian Longevity. — " Within these last eight years," 
says the Canada Spectator, " there have died in the vil- 
lage of Cognawaga, ten Indians, each of them past an 
hundred years of age. — Some days ago, the curate buri- 
ed a woman aged 166. There is now living a squaw, 
who has her descendants to the fifth generation : in oth- 
er words the child has now living, her mother, grand- 
mother, grandmother's mother and grandmother's grand 
mother." 

At the commencement of the Revolutionary war, the 
congress issued an address to the inhabitants of Canada, 
and troops were sent to take possession, of the country. 
Col. Warner defeated Governor Carlton at Longueil, 
and Montreal was occupied by Gen. Montgomeiy Nov. 
35th 1775. After the unsuccessful attempt on Quebec, 
and the death of that General, this city was evacuated 
by the Americans. 

Excursion to the Moustaix. 

TheMountain of Montreal, rises alittle behind thecity, 
to the height of 550 feet and commands a view worthy the 
attention of every traveller who has taste and strength 
enough to undertake a somewhat arduous ascent. In 
going up, several fine seats will be observed, among 
which that of the Hon. McGillivray and the unfinised 
one of Mr. McTavish, make a conspicuous figure. The 



TRAVELLER. 143 

river St. Lawrence is seen above and below for a dis- 
tance of 40 or 50 miles, and the rapids and islands 
which appear in great numbers, afford a very agreeable 
life and variety to its surface. On both sides is an ex- 
tensive fertile tract of level ground, and towards the 
United States the view is remarkable fine, being inter 
rupted by only a few eminences, such as the mountains 
of Chambly, Belceil, &.c and reaching quite to the hori- 
zon, except where it is bounded by the blue and distant 
summits of some of the Green mountains and some in the 
State of New York. The Ottawa, or Grand river runs 
between tke island of Montreal and the main. 

TVie monument and Tomb of Mr. McTavish, are seen 
near the summit of the mountain. 

Note. Water. The Traveller should be on his guard 
against the water of this vicinty. Those not accustomed 
to it usually experience very unpleasant effects from 
the chemical salts it contains. It is said that boiling re 
moves its unwholesome qualities. 



Geology. 

The level ground lies on a flat dark coloured fetid 
lime rock, containing animal remains. Some distance up 
the mountain it is succeeded by a kind of slate, with 
veins of trap. Near the top is limestone in slanting 
strata, and above that hornblende vidth crystals of augite. 
Near the town is crystal ine limestone, with animal re- 
mains — very uncommon, 

JOURNEY TO QUEBEC, 170 miles. 

Chambly, 15 miles. 
St. John's 12 miles. 

Here the traveller takes a steam-boat for Quebec. 
Isle Attx Noix. 
SoREL Village. 

Here a fort was built in 1665 by Monsieur de Tracy* 
when meditating plans against the colonies. 



14^1 THE NORTHERN 

Trois Rivieres. 

is half way to Quebec, It contains about 2500 inhabl 
tants. 



The Rapida of Richelieu 

have something a little formidable in their appearance, 
but the passage of the iiver at this place is perfonned 
without dangfer. 



Cape Rouge, 

7 miles from Quebec. Here the banks of the St. Law> 
rence begin to acquire a considerable elevation; and 
they contmue to rise until they present the lofty preci- 
pices of Quebec, which suddenly make their appearance 
in front, though the city is almost concealed until the 
traveller approaches very near. 

CnArDiERE River, 1 m. below. 

From this place the view becomes more interesting. 
Two old towers are seen on the bluft' where Quebec i* 
situated, which are 340 feet above the river, 

SiLLERY River, 4 m. 

Near this was the place where the French from Mon- 
treal and the British forces had a severe battle after 
General Wolfe's capture of Quebec. 

Wolfe's Cove. This is the spot where General 
Wolfe landed his troops in the night, in theye:xr 1759 ; 
and up these rocks they climbed to the heights above, 
where they gained tlie battle which decided the iate of 
the city. The point of the promontory on which Que- 
bec stands, is Cape Diamond, and on it is built the for- 
lre?-s oi tlie oily. 

Point Levi is the high bluff seen opposite, on the south 
east sicLe of the river. A melancholy accident occ irred 
there last February, [ 1825.] A poor man, by the najne 



TKAVELLER. i46 

oi ILougon, iuliabited with his family, a small liut built 
of plank at the foot of the precipice. A huge mass of 
snow which had accumulated on the height above, rolled 
down with great force, taking the building in its way, 
and entirely overwhelmed it, crushing to death several of 
the inmates. The man, his wife and three children were 
all destroyed. Those who escaped from immediate 
death losing their lives by exposure to the severity of 
the Aveather. 

QUEBEC. 

The Lower Town lies a little raised above the level 
of the water, and runs round the rock, which rises so ab- 
ruptly above, that nothing of ;he Upper Town can be 
seen. The Bay is large and fine, bounded by bold 
shores, which seem almost to enclose it. The island 
of Orleans appears four miles down the river. While 
approaching the city, on the left hand the spectator sees 
a wide and beautiful extent of country, gently rising 
from the shore ; charmingly varied with cultivated, 
fields and numerous country seats as well as towns and 
villages, all as white as marble, accompanying the road 
down the river, and pursuing the graceful bend of its 
course. One of the principal objects which strike the 
eye in the Upper Town, is the Castle of St. Louis, form- 
erly a fortress but now a palace, where the Governor of 
Quebec resides. It stands on the very edge of the preci- 
pice high above, and overhangs the Lower Town with. 
its immense stone walls, 162 feet in length, 45 in breadth, 
and five stories high. 

The ascent to the upper town from this side is by the 
Mountain street. 

The entrance into the lower town is through the Pres- 
cot Gate, which is of great size. The Barracks were 
originally a Jesuits' College, and like every thmg else 
to be seen has the aspect of a foreign country. The 
Cathedral is Large and has a solemn and impressive ef- 
fect. A plan has been formed for erecting a much more 
magnificent one in its place, of much greater size and 
beauty. Future editions of this work may furnish a des- 
cription of it, if it is ever completed. 

There are several agreeable excursions to be made 
from Quebec, to which the following descriptions may 
A- 



U6 THE NORTHEUA 

serve as a key. The common vehicle used on such mi 
occasion, is the Canada Calash, which although of a 
rude construction, drawn by a small horse and driven by 
a Frenchman, will be found more comfortable and ex- 
peditious than its exterior would lead one to expect. 

THE FALLS OE MONTMORENCY. 

The road leads through the gate of St. John, and after lea- 
ving the buildings which crowd on either hand for some 
distance beyond, entering a fine tract of land, beautiful- 
ly cultivated. On the left of the road is seen a large 
Nunnery. 

Village of Bcauport. 

This extends for a great distance along the road and i^ 
handsome both in situation and appearance, and com- 
mands a fine view of Quebec. The River Montmorency 
is just beyond. You cross a bridge to the other side, and 
follow the course of the current. The stream itself is 
not large, but within 300 yards of the St- Lawrence, 
where it pours its water down a precipice, below two 
immense walls of rock, the scenery assumes the most 
rough and frowning aspect, while the island of Orleans^ 
lying in the St. Lawrence opposite its mouth, exhibits a 
charming, verdant slope, embellished with the softest 
beauties of cultivation and fercility. The contrast is de- 
lightful. The rocks on both sides are composed of dark 
coloured lime stone, based on miisses of granite near the 
water's edge; and their sombre hue sets off the white- 
ness of the foaming cascade. The rivm- pours over a ra- 
pid declivity just before it reaches the precipice, and 
then make a descent of 240 feet down a broken preci- 
pice. A broad semicircular basin lie.- below to receive 
it, where it all subsides to silence and tranquility^ A 
handsome country house stands near the brow of the ca- 
taract. You may approach near the falls, and the beau- 
ty and sublimity of the scene are encreased. by the noise 
of the water, and the rainbows in the spray, which are 
generally to be seen in a fine day. 



TRAVELLER. 14: 



THE SAW MILL; 



are erected under the western bank. They ave capable 
of cutting a great quantity of timber, and are carried by 
a stream of water brought away from above tlic falls — - 
They are owned by Mr. Patterson, who has erected 
piers in the St Lawrence for the security of great quanti- 
ries of lumber brought to this place on enormous rafts, 
and intended principally for exportation to England- 

BATTLE OF MONTMORENCY. 

When Gen. Wolfe came to operate against Quebec in 
June 1759, he posted his army on the island of Orleans, 
while the fleet blockaded the port. At the end of that 
month Gen. Monckton was sent over to Point Levi, 
and established himself there, whence he was able 
to fire upon the city. Above the river Montmorency the 
landing was pi'otected by the Marquis de Montcalm. — 
Gen. Wolfe landed his troops at the mouth of the Mont- 
morency during the night of July 31st, and erected a 
battery on the precipice north east of the falls, the re- 
mains of which are to be seen. The French were en- 
trenched along the opposite bank ; and on the 31st of 
July Gen. Wolfe sent his troops to ford the Montmoren- 
cy below the falls, to storm their works. Some of Gen. 
Monckton's force from Point Levi in crossing with boats 
got aground, and difficulty ensued ; but the landing 
was made in the afternooL on the beach to th.\ right 
of the saw mills. They came however too late : for the 
thirteen grenadier companies with 200 Americans, who 
had landed before, relused to wait or to form as had 
foe^n intended in four columns, but marched tumultu- 
ously round the rock, and rushed up hill in a mass to- 
wards the Fre.ich works, at some distance back from 
the old redoubt on th ' point, which had been deserted. 
A warm fire however was directed against them, which 
cut down about 500 men, and they were obliged to re- 
treat to the redoubt, whence they were ordered back to 
the beach to form. The enterpirse was however inter- 
rupted by a severe storm, and finally abandoned. 

The British army afterwards went up the river in the 
:1eet. and the Marquis Bousainvillp was '^cnt with 150O 



14S TlfE NORTHERN 

men to watch their movements. With wonderful skil 
and good fortune however Gen. Wolfe succeeded in baf 
fling their vigilance, as well as that of all the centiuels 
alono: the whole shore; tut the scene of the event with 
which these movements was connected lies at a (distance 
from the place where we now are ; and t will be neces- 
sary to return to Quebec and visit the Plains of Abra- 
ham to retrace it with advanta.2:e. 



THE CAPTURE OF QUEBEC. 

At one o'clock in the night of September 12th 1769, 
Gen. Wolfe quietly transported his troops from the fleet 
into the boats, and cautiously passed down the river.— 
He intended to land two or three miles above Cape Dia- 
mond, andgetpossession of the heights of Abraham. Cut 
was drifted drown so rapidly that he passed theplace with- 
out discovering it, and then resolved to attempt a land- 
ing at Wolfe's Cove, just above the city. The shore is 
bold, and the rocks so high and steep, that only a few 
centinels were poste '. along the precipicesand the n ar- 
gin. This desperate enterprise however did not dis- 
courage the leader or his troops, but an hour before day 
break they had effected their landing, and commenced 
the arduous ascent by a narrow, broken path, at the top 
of which was stationed a captain's guard. As fast as the 
English reached the summit they formed on the level 
plain. 

At ten o'clock Montcalm arrived with his army, and a 
battle was fought which decided the fate ot Canada. 
Montcalm stationed 1500 sharp shooters in front, but the 
British coolly stood their ground till the French were 
within 40 yards, when they opened their fire, and soon 
afterwards terminated the engagement with their bayo- 
nets. The place -^here the greatest carnage was made, 
is near the walls of Quebec, where the English left was 
closely engaged with the French right. The action 
lasted two hours, and in it both chiefs received their mor- 
tal wounds. Gen. Wolf was shot in two or three places 
and lay near a small granite rock which is still pointed 
out. When hardly any signs of life remained, news was 
brought that the day had declared for the British. 
Then-.^'said he. ♦' I die content." 



iFvAVKJ.LLK i4y 

The Canadians themselve?, have probably suffered 
iittle by the change of masters. " They have been al- 
lowed the free practice of their customs, manners, and 
rights ; and the re is so little intermixture even at this 
day, that but for the British uniform in the 3treets,and the 
British ships in the harbour, a stranger might imagine 
himself in the territories of his most Christian Majesty. 

BATTLE OF SILLERY. 

On the 28th April of the succeeding year, (1760,) the 
French and English had a bloody action at Sillery, three 
miles from the city. Monsieur Levi left Montreal with 
the intention of taking Quebec, aad at that place was 
met by 'Jen. Murray, who fought him with inferior num- 
bers, and obliged him to retreat after losing 1000 men. 
The French laid seige to Quebec, but an English squad- 
ron arrived very opportunely, and the enemy returned 
to Montreal. 

ATTACK ON QUEBEC IN 1775. 

Gen. Montgomery was sent against this important city 
by the American Congress, soon after the commence- 
ment of the Revolutionary War. Gen. Arnold joined 
him, and was appointed to attempt the rorthern side of 
the town, while Gen. Montgomery was to attack the 
southern. On the appearance of the latter the enemy re- 
treated ; and as he pursued, were wearied by passing- 
round Cape Diamond among the slippery rocks. When 
he came near to the blockhouse he was obliged to delay 
a short time before his men could come up ; and just 
as he was rushing on with two hundred to storm it, two 
or three Englishman returned and fired one of the guns, 
which killed General Montgomery and two of his aids. 
Thus the expedition was defeated, and the Americans 
were finally obliged to retire. 

In the year 1818 a vessel was sent to Quebec from 
New- York, to remove the remains of Gen. Montgomery, 
which were deposited in a vault in St. Paul's Church in 
that city, and a monument erected to his memorv. 
N2 



15V THH XOUTllt:R^ 

iV line of rortification extends across the high ground.-' 
:ibove the town. It is nearly a mile in extent, and very 
?trong. A wall of solid masonry encircles the city, heavily 
loaded down with eunnon ; and all the defences of the 
place are constructed on a solid and mighty plan, worthy 
of a great European fortress. 

THE CITADEL, 

is at the southern end of the city on Cape Diamond, 
and occupies the hig^hest ground in all that part of the 
peninsula, except the point called Ferguson's House. 
The highest of its batteries is named after G eneral Brock, 
The citadel is not accessible to strangers. 

GENERAL REMARKS. 

The size and situation of Quebec naturally render it 
the great depot of the commerce of Canada. Placed 
on a noble river which forms a connection between 
the ocean and a chain of vast lakes, whole shores are 
becoming peopled and cultivated, notwithstanding 
the obstacles with which the channel is here and there 
encumbered, it would seem at first view as calculated to 
receive all the concentrated wealth of many thousands 
of miles ; and the rocky precipices with which it is forti- 
fied by nature, formed to secure it against the most despe- 
rate attempts of a foe. But when itis recollected that the 
.severity of the winter renders navigation entirely im- 
uracticable for several months in the year, and creates a 
thousand diflSculties along the coasts from which more 
southern countries are exempt; above all when itis re- 
collected that the communication lately eftected be- 
tween Lake Erie and Hudson River, opens a more safe 
and convenient passage to the ocean, it cannot be longer 
a matter of wonder that Quebec .should exhibit so few 
signs of improvement, and that it> commerce should 
tiearso small a proportion lo its apparent resources. 

Still however the trade between the St. Lawrence and 
England is extensive, as a view of the Jiarbour and its 
vicinity will abundantly attest. The navigation he- 
^ueen Quebec and Montreal is greatly assisted by the 



TIUVELLER. 15! 

Meaiu boat employed in towing vessels in the river. 
Three large schooners are devoted to the business. The 
himber annually exported, supplying the English Navy, 
amounts to an immense sum ; and the trade with the In- 
dians, employs a great capital and a great number of 
persons. 

A Canal to the Bay of Fundy 

has been projected within a few months, by the Legisla- 
ture of Canada. The route proposed is from B< y Verte, 
in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, to the most convenient 
point in the Bay of Fundy, which will open a direct com- 
munication with New Brunswick. 



A Steam Coasting Ship 

has also been proposed, to run between Quebec and 
Halifax, for freight and passengers, as well as for towing. 
The coast is said to Jibound in numerous ship harbours, 
and the variou« courses to be steered during the voyage, 
as well as the current of the river, offer strong induce- 
ments for adopting such a measure. It is said that a ship 
of 500 tons would be necessary. It would cost 10 or 
12000 pounds. 

JOURNEY FROM QUEBEC TO MONTREAL, 170 m. 

To repeat a list of the most remarkable places on this 
route, in the order in which they will present them- 
'^t'lves in going from Quebec, we begin with 

Wolfe's Cove 

half a mile from the city, where Gen. Wolfe effected 
his landing, as already described. 

SiLLERY River, 
near the place of the battle of Siller}'. 

Chaudiere River. 4 miles. 



i HE NORTHERN 

Cape Rouge 1 mile. 
Beyond this the land loses its remarkable elevation 

The Rapids of Richelieu, 7 miles. 
Trois Rivieres. 
Sorrel Village- 
Isle AUX Noix. 

St. John's. 
The Lake Champlain Steam Boat goes from this place. 

Chambly- 

Montbeal. 

LAKE CHAMPLAIN STEAM BOAT, 
to White Hall, 160 miles. 



La Prarie 




9 


St. John's 




18 


Isle aux Noix - 




14 


Windmill Point 




12 


Plattsburgh - 




17 


Burlington 




18 


Crown Point 




80 


Ticonderoga 




15 


White Hall . 




30 
153 


To Albany, on the side 


oftheHudi 


West Granville 


. 


11 


East Granville 


. 


3 


Hebron 


. 


9 


"Salem 


. 


8 



TRAVELLER, 153 

Cambridge - - 16 

Pittstown - - 13 

Lansingburgh - 10 

Troy - - 3 (see page 25) 

Albany - - 6 (see page 19) 

To Albany on the west side of the Hudson. 
Fort Anne - - — 
Fort EdAvard - 12 

Here a Stage passes to Saratoga 
Springs. 

Fort Miller (see page 11) 
Schuylersville (see page 2) 
Fort Hardy (see page — ) 
British Lines (see page 7) 
Passing Bemis's Heights 
Stillwater 5 1-2 
Borough 3 
Waterford 10 
Mohawk bridge 1 (see page — ) 

The route down the Hudson River need not be recapi- 
tulated, as the distances and places are marked on the 
maps. 

The White Mountains and Winnipiseogee Lake are 
partially described for the conveinence of such as may 
travel from the eastward to the Springs ; and to those 
who may not have it in their power to visit both these 
places, one of them may be recommended as a journey 
that will produce the highe?t satisfaction, 



api'snbzk:. 



THE ERIE CANAL. 

While the former part of this volume was in the pres^", 
the canal Commissioners published their Annual Report, 
to the Legislature of the State of New York, which com- 
municates much information calculated to interest those 
who travel in that part of the country. 

The Completion and Opening of the whole Canal is ex= 
pected to take place in September 1825. 

That part of the Canal West of Brookport was not com- 
pleted until the begining of September 1824, when the 
water was let in, and boats began to ply as far west as 
Lockport, at the foot of the Mountain Ridge. One or 
two breaches occurred in the embankment, which occa- 
sioned temporary delay ; but that part of the canal fully 
gratified the expectations of the Commissioners in every 
material point. The only supplies of water to be ob- 
tained West of Genesee River are furnished by the Ton- 
awanta and Oak Orchard Creeks, and they proved ade- 
quate to the purpose. The aqueduct of 38 culverts and 
60 feet span on the part of the route, is substantially built 
of stone. 

The following extracts from the Commissioners' Re- 
port, we arrange under their respective heads. 

Lockport. 

'• The combined Locks at the brow of the mountain, 
are nearlv completed. This is a work of the first mami- 



15(5 APPENDIX. 

tude on the line, and one of the greatest of the kind in the 
world. The superior style in which it is executed — it3 
situation at the brow of a perpendicular precipice of 
about 76 feet, overlooking a capacious natural basin, witii 
banks upon each side of an altitude of more than onn 
hundred feet, coimected with the deep rock excavation, 
renders it one of the most interesting points on the Erie 
canal. 



TONAWANTA CrEEK. 

" The towing path on the bank, and the dam across 
the Tonawanta creek, are finished. The lift lock, located 
in the side cut which connects the canal navigation with 
the Niagara river, is also completed : the guard lock on 
the west side of the Tonawanta creek is ready for use, and 
boats have been towed on twelve miles of the Tona- 
wanta creek, and passed through the guard and lift locks 
into the Niagara river." 

[That part of the Canal from Tonawanta Creek by 
Black Rock to Buffalo creek is partly finished, and will 
be completed early in the season.] 

Black Rock. 

[The Harbour will probably be finished as early as 
September. The Sloop Lock is almost fit for use, and 
the Dam from the Shore to Squaw Island is so far com- 
pleted as to prevent the water from passing over. The 
embankment on Squaw Island is eight feet high, more 
than thirty feet broad at the base, and six at the top. 
The commissioners consider it more secure than the ordi- 
nary canal embankments. From the head of the island 
to the temporary dam there is 4180 feet of pier, three- 
fourths of which is filled with brush and stone. From 
the temporary dam to the first angle of the traverse pier, 
there is 3314 feet of pier filled in the same manner, and 
trenailed, but not finished. From this point, there is an 
open space of 1000 feet, part of which will form the tra- 
verse angle, stretching nearly at right angles with the 
stream, Thi?, vriih. about 600 feet of mole or pier, put 



APPENDIX. 157 

tiown in 1823, will form the whole work. The materials 
have been procured. The loss of the temporary dam, in 
October last, is supposed by the Commissioners to have 
been owing to its unfinished state. They pronounce it 
strong enough to resist all the pressure to which it ever 
can be exposed by the elevation of the surface within the 
harbour. They seem however to have omitted in their 
account to estimate the force of the waves of Lake Erie 
in a westerly storm, and the still more irresistable effects 
of the masses of ice, which are sometimes driven violently 
against the shore. Time however, will soon show wheth- 
er their conclusions are reasonable or not.] 

There is a little less than six inches difference in the 
Tel of the water in Buffalo creek and the Black Rock 
harbour. 

The frost during the winter is found to produce most 
injury when the canal is empty ; It is therefore intend- 
ed to let the water remain in it until the opening of the 
spring, when it is to be drawn off for repairs. 

The banks leaked less during the past year then ever 
before. The great Irondequot Embankment stood firm 
and tight : The other embankment near it however 
once showed some signs of weakness, and was stren<^th- 
ened, and is now considered quite safe. 
Stone Facing. 

The undulation produced by the passage boats, mate- 
rially injures the banks, by constantly wearing away the 
earth ; and it is recommended that they should be grad- 
ually faced with stone throughout the whole length of 
the canal. Ten or fifteen miles were secured in this man. 
ner during the last season, and the advantages of it were 
too evident to be neglected. 

" Boats which move but two, or two and a half miles 
an hour, do but little injury to the banks ; but when the 
velocity is encreased to four miles an hour, as it is the case 
with packets, the accumulation of resistance and conse- 
quent disturbance of the water, is very great. This ra- 
pid motion of the packet boats creates an artificial wave, 
by which the banks of the canal in many places are seri 
ouly injured. It v.'ould perhaps be deemed a public cala- 
mity, to exclude from the use of the canals such boats as 



are designed for tlie conveyance of passengers, or to piu« 
hibit them from moving at a rate of more than two and a 
half miles an hour. But with the piesent rates of toll 
(6 cents a mile) they do not idemnify the state for the in- 
jury which they occasion, and the toll upon them ought to 
be considerably augmented. A freight boat with 30 tons 
of merchandize, navigating 200 miles of the canal pays 
$184; whilst a packet, under the present rates, pays but 
$12 for the same distance ; and the injury done by the 
p acket is probably one hundred times greater." 
[Note. The packets now pay 20 cents a mile.] 

Canal Bridges. 

" The bridges which were built on the middle section 
on the plan first adopted, have been mostly altered and 
enlarged ; and the remainder will undergo the same al- 
teration during the present winter. The want of great- 
er height in all the bridges has been made the subject of 
complaint with passengers in the packet boats ; an -• they 
are mdeed considerably lower than when first construct- 
ed, in consequence of the settling of the banks. It 
was intended that there should have been not less than, 
eleven and a half feet space in all cases between the 
bottom of the canal, and the underside of the string 
pieces. This height allows of seven and a half feet 
above the surface of the water, and affords room for 
the passage of the largest boats. A greater elevation 
would have greatly increased the expense of banking 
and forming a road to ascend the bridges ; und would 
also have added to the inconvenience of the faimer 
through whose grounds the canals have been construct- 
ed and for whose accommodation the greatest part of 
them have been built, and who is now obliged, in pass- 
ing many of the bridges, to carry the ponderous and 
bulky productions of his farm over high, narrow and 
dangerous embankments. The insuperable diflSculties, 
which opposed the construction of these bridges at an 
elevation sufficiently great to admit persons to pass un- 
der them without danger or inconvenience, on the decks 
of passage boats, produced suggestions at an early 
period from various quarters, of building them on the 



APPElSDiX. 150 

moveable or retractile plan. The advantages of bridge? 
of this description arc, that they can be so constructed 
as to rest on the water, or at an elevation but little above 
it ; and that they may be thrown across the canal and 
returned again by the strength of one man. And when 
not in use, they may be thrown out of the way. The 
objections to them are, that when in the use and thrown 
across the canal, they form a barrier which totally ob- 
structs the passage of every boat. And although they 
may be placed out of the way, it is not probable that 
they always would be ; but would be often in a situation 
to obstruct the navigation or to be broken to pieces by 
the impingements of heavy boats. Bridges of this des- 
cription may be Jvell adopted to canals over which few 
bridges are wanted ; but we apprehend that they are al- 
together inadmissible on the canals over which such a 
multitude have been required as on the canals of this 
state ; and through which such numbers of boats will 
contmually pass. Between Utica and Albany there are 
nearly three hundred bridges ; and of these, more than 
eighty are between Utica and the Little Falls, averaging 
four to every mile. These bridges must be used many 
times every day, and had they been constructed on the 
retractile plan, no boat could have passed on this part 
of the canal, without experiencing the most vexatious 
interruptions; and not less vexatious and intolerable 
would be the inconvenience and labour which they 
would impose upon the farmer, whose cows, horses, ox<- 
en, sheep, and 'ther stock or property could never cross 
the canal, neither could his children or his family pass* 
it, without the assistance of at least one able-bodied 
man to move and remove the bridge every time it be- 
came necessary to pass any of them over it." 

"- In consequence of the difficulty and expense of 
building an immoveable bridge across the canal at the 
Oriskany hill, a retractile, floating bridge was built three 
years ago, which was found, however, to be equally 
inconvenient as the swivel bridge above mentioned, 
and was in a short time was entirely knocked to pieces 
by the boats. 



160 APPENDIX 

Hydrostatic Locks. 

In order to prevent frauds in the collection of toil, 
three of these works have been cons ructed ; — one at 
Troy one at Utica, and one at Syracuse. They are 
commonly called irei.gh-locks. The following minute 
account of them may be interesting to those who laxe 
never seen them. 

" These hydrostatic locks are constructed with a 
chamber sufficiently large to receive any boat used on 
the canal. The chamber is on the same level with the 
canal, and is filled from it y a paddle gate which is 
fixed in a large gate. On a level below the chamber, 
is a receptacle, into which, by a gate, the chamber can 
be emptied, and from this, throug . another gate, the 
water can be discharged. The gates are made as a; cu- 
rate as possible, to prevent leakage ; and although they 
cannot be made perfectly tight, yet if they are equally 
so, the result wi.l be equally compensated by the gain at 
the other. 

" When it is designated to ascertain the weight of a 
loaded boat, the chamber is first filled by the opening of 
the paddle gate, after which the large gate is opened, 
the boat is removed from the canal into the chamber, 
and the gates close behind it. The depth of the water 
in the chamber is then carefully ascertained by a metallic 
rod, graduated into feet, tenths, and undredths of a 
foot, a id the cubic contents of the water, with the boat 
floating in it, is at once obtained from a table construct- 
ed for the purpose, and adapted to the graduations of 
the rod. 

" Suppose the column of wat*»r in the lock in which 
the boat is afloat, is 85 feet long, 15 wide, and 4 feet 
deep; then by multiplying the length, width, and depth 
of this column into eac other, its contents i .. cubic 
feet are obtained. Thus, 85+15 M=5100 cubic feet 
of water including w hat is called the flotation bulk of 
the boat, or in other words, including the contents of 
the volume of water displaced by the boat. The water 
is th"n drawn off into the recep acle, and the boa set- 
tles down upon timbers, so arranged as to yield to its 
phape. by which it is supported, without being strained 



APPENDIX, 16 i 

■or injured. The quantity of water drawn from the lock 
is then ascertained by the graduated rod. Suppose the 
water in the receptacle measures 30 feet long, 25 feet 
wide, and 5 feet deep : these multiplied into each other 
as before, will produce 3750 cubic feet. It is a princi- 
plefin hydrostatics, that every body which floats in wa- 
ter, displaces a volume of this fluid, precisely equal in 
weight to the floating body. It appears from the above, 
that the wa^er, with the loaded boat floating in it, con- 
tained 5100 cubic feet, and that the same water, drawn 
off and measured separately, contained 3750 cubic feet, 
which subtmcted from the preceding, will give 1350 
cubic feet of water displaced by the loaded boat. And 
as a cubic foot of fresh water weighs IvOO ounc s avoir- 
dupois, or 62 12 pounds, it follows that 1350-1-62 1-2= 
84375 is the weight of the loaded boat. This is to be 
reduced to tons, and the weight of the empty boat pre- 
viously ascertained in the same manner, is to be deduc- 
ted, and the remainder will be the weight of th*e cargo. 
After an empty boat has been once weighed, she is num- 
bered, and her weight is registered at the several hy- 
drostatic locks." 



CLAIMS FOR DAMAGES. 

" The proper adjustment of claims for damages, fre- 
quently involves an intricate examination into titles, 
and other questions of considerable difficulty. The fol- 
lowing among others have occurred, to wit: whether 
it is proper to pay to the mortgagor or mortgagee, where 
they both claim the damages ; to whom the damages 
shall be paid which have been awarded on premises sold 
on execution, and the statutory period of redemption 
not elapsed ; whether a payment to a widow, of a natu- 
ral guardian of her children, who are infant heirs, is 
proper." 

The experience of two or three years is necessary to 
ascertain the actual damage to lands through which the 
canal passes. From the great variety of soils, different 
effects are produced, and it is sometimes a great while 
before the full amount of damages is perceived. In 
other cases as in tho?e of leaks, which in two or thre 
02 



a-62 APPENDIX 

years become perfectly dry, little iujury is suslamed. 
"When necessary, buildings have been removed, and the 
4sxpense of removal and repairing paid by the state. 
Some of the claims are very extravagant, though urged 
•with much pertinacity. Extensive back drains have 
been made during the last season; and much of the land 
injured by leakage reclaimed. Many appraisements 
have been made, and many more are under consideration, 
most of which will be disposed of in two or three 
months. 

AVERAGE PASSAGE OF BOATS. 

" The number of boats which have passed on the ca- 
nal, below the junction, has been equal to an average of 
40 per day, through the season; between the junction 
and Utica, on the Erie canal, 24 per day ; and between 
Uticaand Rochester, 16 per day,including packet boats, 
of which 4 run daily. 

It is ascertained that a boat can be passed through a 
lock in five mmutes ; and that allowing for all contingen- 
cies, one can be passed every eight minutes during the 
twenty-four hours, making 180 each day. 

By doubling the locks, twice this number, to wit ; 360 
can be passed daily, without much inconvenience at the 
locks or elsewhere on the canals, provided they could 
move in regular order : for allowing them to move in 
equal numbers each way, and at the rate of 2 1-2 miles 
iin hour, a boat leaving a lock at the time auotlier is en- 
tering, will advance 106 rods in eight minutes, and will 
meet another boat at an average of half that distance, 
or every 53 rods. Boats, and the horses towing them, 
might meet at this distance without any material inter- 
ruption or inconvenience ; so that another towing path, 
if the bridges, aqueducts, and other artificial works, and 
the sliding banks and perpendicular rocky precipices 
along the Mohawk admitted of its conslruction, would 
be wholly unnecessary. Two boats cannot pass each 
other upon any of the aqueducts ; and the canals being 
but 40 feet wide on the surface, and 28 at the bottom, 
and the boats 14 feet wide, only two can pas? each other 



APPENDIX. 16:i 

on the canal : so that only one ascending, and one descen- 
ding; line of boats could be used, even if two towing 
paths were constructed. Besides, it will always be ne- 
cessary to use one side of the canal as a place of deposit, 
for articles to be transported, and where boats may lie 
to load or unload. When those who navigate the canal 
find :t necessar> to stop, in order to feed their horses, to 
take in or discharge parts of their cargo, to repair their 
boats, to procure provisions or water, or for any other 
purpose whatever, they must fasten the boat to one side 
or the other of the canal, so that it may be out of the 
way of passing boats : and it is not perceived how this 
could be done if there were a towing path on each side, 
of the canal." 

A PARALLEL CANAL. 

« The great press of business on the eastern section of 
the Erie canal, particularly in the spring and fall, will 
before long exclude packet boats from the use of this 
part of the line, unles? double locks are made the whole 
distance, and even then, the immense crowd of boats at 
these periods, will produce great inconvenience and de- 
lay. There are some places on the eastern section, par- 
ticularly at the Little Falls, and at Yankee Hill, where 
it would be almost impossible to construct double locks ; 
and m several others, the expense would be very great. 
And it is presumed that the experience of two or three 
years more, will satisfy the public, that it will be proper 
to commence the construction of another canal parallel 
■with the eastern section. This canal might be connected 
with the present one, at the east end of the long level, 
between nine and ten miles east of Utica ; from thence it 
might cross over to the north bank of the Mohawk, and 
be continued down on the north side of the river to 
Alexander's Bridge, at the upper aqueduct, nearly four 
miles below Schenectady, where it might be carried 
across the river and continued on the south bank to tide 
water. The whole of this line has never been carefully 
examined and levelled, but the general app'earance of 
the countrv i'? nearlv as favorable for a canal as on thr 



164 APPEISDIX. 

opposite side of the river. And a canai on the north 
aide of the river would, by its southern exposure, always 
have the advantage of being navigable some days earlier 
in the spring, and later in the fall, than on the soutli 
side ; although that advantage may appear trifling at 
present, it will shortly be of very great importance. It 
33 found by experience, that the middle and western sec- 
tions of the canal are open eight or ten days earlier in the 
spring than the eastern section. The natural conse- 
quence of this will be, that the western boats, pressing 
forward with a view to reach the market as early as pos- 
sible, and return with merchandize for the interior, will 
accumulate on the eastern part of the middle section in 
such numbers, as litei*ally to cover the canal for miles in 
extent ; and will be detained on this part of the line for 
several days, until the warmth of the atmosphere shall 
have dissolved the frosts in those parts of the canal to 
the eastward, which are shaded from the sun by the high 
banks that rise on the south side of the Mohawk. In the 
fall also, there will be avery great and growing press of 
business, which two canals would very much facilitate. 
If the transportation on the eastern section could be 
equalized throughout the season, and a double set of 
locks constructed, another canal would probably not be 
necessary within fifteen or twenty years : but the vast 
accumulation of business on the canal, in the spring and 
fall months, beyond what it is in the summer, will ren- 
der it proper, and perhaps indispensable, to make a par- 
rallel canal on this section within a very few years from 
this time.- ' 

CALCULATIONS. 

The calculations relative to the Canal Fund, our read- 
ers may have seen in the Report of the Commissioners 
of that fund. In the present report, howevf r, it is stated 
as probable, that at the end of ten years, after paying the 
canal debt, the canal will produce a revenue of more than 
a million and a half. It may be more, but can hardly 
be le?«. 



APPENDIX- itKi 

- The revenue from tolls is hereafter destined to a ra- 
pid increase." 

" The country within the influence of the Champlain 
canal beg^ins to feel the beneficial effects of this great im- 
provement, and will rapidly augment its population, 
wealth, and resources. The tolls on this canal, the past 
yeaT, exceed the interest of the amount of its cost, and 
those tolls will probably be tripled within ten years from 
this time." 

" On the completion of the Erie canal, a vast increase 
of revenue wjU commence. The immense countiy con- 
tiguous to th<? great western lakes, is now only in an in- 
cipient statR of improvem'^nt. The boundless forests 
hav" hardly begun to recede before the march of human 
indust . 

"The poulation of the United States doubles in 25 
years; although many of the old settled parts continue 
to be nearly stationary. This rapid accession to our 
numbers is principally created by emigration, by the es- 
tablishment of towns, and villages, and cities, in the 
wilderness : and, after the connexion of the canal with, 
lake Erie, no part of the earth c an offer stronger invita- 
tion to the enterprising emigrant, than the west. A 
temperate climate, anc* an uninterrupted chain of water 
communication to the ocean, on whi' h maybe convey- 
ed the productions of distant countries, and of other 
climes, in return for the surplus growth of a prolific soil, 
are among its peculi a* advantages. An immense tide 
of population will set to the west, and after overspread- 
ing the extensive borders of our inland seas, it will throw 
back upon our great commercial emporium, up- 
on our inland cities, a correspondent reflux of 
wealth and prosperity. The western part of this state, 
and the regions still farther west, whose supplies and sur- 
plus productions will traverse the Erie canal, contain 
at this time a population which cannot be estimated at 
less than a million. This papulation, possessing such 
peculiar advantages, both by nature and art, will proba- 
bly double every ten years, for the next thirty years; 
so that those who v itnessed the commencement of the 
Erie canal, may, it the termination of their period, see 
the productions and supplies of eight millions of their fel- 
low citizens floating upon its wat^r<; " 



160 APPENDIX. 

'• Of the amount of tolls collected upon the Erie canal 
the past year, (nearly three hundred thousand dollars) 
more than nineteen twentieths of the whole has been 
paid by citizens of this state." 

"The regions west of Buffalo, have hardly begun to 
pay their contributions for the use of the canal. Could 
it have been connected with lake Erie two years ago, 
so as to have navigated to the extent which a know- 
ledge of its utility, and the wants of the great communi- 
ty within its influence, would have required, the above 
amount of tolls, as we believe, would have been increas- 
ed to five hundred thousand dollars. And if there is 
within the sphere of its operation a population of one 
million, whose annual contribution in tolls, on its com- 
pletion and full fruition, would be half a million of dol- 
lars, there is no reason to believe that the augmentation 
of tolls w II not thereafter keep pace with the increase of 
population. Ou this suppos tion, the Erie canal alone, 
will, .t the expiration of ten years, give a revenue of a 
million of dollars." 

AMOUNT OF BUSINESS WHICH CAN BE DONE ON 
THE CANAL. 

'• The annual period of navigation at present, is about 
220 days ; but if the same changes of climate are pro- 
duced in our own countiy (and those changes appear to 
be rapidly progressing,) by the cutting down of^the for- 
ests, as have been produced in France, Germany, Italy 
and other countries, by the same process, our annual sea- 
sons of navigation will ultimately be extended to 250 or 
275 days. Indeed, should our climate assimilate to 
that of the western parts of the continent of Europe, in 
like paralels of latitude, the yearly period of navigating 
the Erie canal, would be yet longer. 

During the time that the cai als have been in use, the 
boats navigating them have been gradually increased in 
size ; and nearly all those which have been last built 
are of the capacity of from 35 to 40 tons; and it is prob- 
able that after a few years more, they will, in descend- 
ing to tide water, generally carry 40 tons." 

'In the calculation which we are about to submit, it 



APPENDIX. 167 

h assumed, that only the eastern half of the canal is to 
be supplied with such an amount of transportation, as if 
equally distributed through the season, would require 
the passage of a boat every eight minutes, through two sets 
of locks, and on the western half of the canal, every 
eight minutes through a single set of locks. But the 
time will arrive within fifty years when the number of 
the people of this state, who will use the canal, will form 
but an inconsiderable fraction of the whole number, 
whose property will float upon it; and when the nine 
tenths of the produce and merchandise which is trans- 
ported upon the canal will pay toll, if it is then charge- 
able, for the 'se of the whole length of the line." 

" It is found that the produce which reaches the Hud- 
son by the canals, amounts to about five times as manj'^ 
tons, as the merchandise, kc. which is sent into the 
country ; and by this ratio, the descending boats carry- 
ing 40 tons each, will return with a cargo of 8 tons 
each." 

" The above premises will give the following result: 

The amount of produce that would reach Tons. 

the Hudson in one season, would be 1,584,000 

And of merchandise sent to the west, 316,800 

l,90t;,800 

The Erie canal being 362 miles long, a toll of 1 1-2 
cents per ton, per mile, on produce, and 3 cents per ton, 
per mile, on merchandise, would produce the following 
amount : 

Toll on produce on western half of canal , f 2, 150,280 
On eastern half, 4,300,560 

Toll on merchandise on western half 860,112 

On eastern half^ 1,720,224 



Total, $9,031,176 

From the above it will be seen, that the Erie canal 
may give a revenue in one year, of nine million thirty- 
one thousand one hundred and seventy six dollars." 



lOd 



APPENDIX 



Tolls. 

The tolls collected on the Erie canal the last vear 

amoMnted to $294,54t> 62 

On the Champlain canal 46,2 14 45 

Total, $340,761 07 

The following statement from the Collector's Office 
at Troy, which is situated below the junction of the 
canals, exhibits the principal amount of all the articles 
which have passed on the Erie and Champlain canals. 
Amount of Articles passing North and West, on the canal 
at West Troy, in 1824. 

tons. cwt. qr. lb. 
Merchandize, 24474 10 2 23 

Non enumerated, 3321 17 1 23 

Stone, Clay and Sand. 1121 4 2 27 

Boards and Plank, 72 15 C 

Laths and Shingles, 3 15 C 

Total, 28994 2 3 11 



Amount of Transportation. 

Amount of Articles passing East, to Troy and Albany, 
on the Canal at West Troy, in 1824. 

tons, cwtqrlb 
Merchandise, 335 7 3 U 

Non enumerated, 1611 14 

Cheese, Butter, Lard and Tallow 



Bush. Coarse Grain, 
Galls. Whiskey, 
Bush. Wheat, 
Bbls. Ashes, 
Bbls. Provisions, 
Bush. Salt, 
Bbls. Flour, 
Gypsum, 

Cement and Lime 
Bbls. Oil, 
Tierces Seed 
Cords Wood. 



59404 
361891 
28 720 

28924 

24286 

78066 

142552 



1281 
6823 



12 5 11 3 

1325 17 3 

1458 17 3 

7626 8 2 

5784 16 

3469 16 1 

1951 13 
16320 18 16 

3892 10 

1255 
138 3 3 
256 4 
17057100 



APPENDIX. 169 

M Staves, 2205 6615 

M Shingles, 6315 947 6 20 

Cubic feet Timber, 241091 4304 62 

Feet Boards and Piank, 35256514 52884 15 

Passing East, 128452 9 3 

ParsiugNorth and West, 28984 23 17 

Total East, North and West, 157446 11 3 20 

The increasing use of the canals will be perceived by 
the following statement: 
In 1820, the tolls on 94 miles of the Erie 

canal were, $5,437 34 

In 1821, on 94 miles, 23,000 00 

In 1822, on 116 miles, 57,160 39 

In 1823, on 160 miles, 105,037 35 

In 1824, on 280 miles, 294,546, 62 

The debt which has been incurred in constructing the 
canals, including what will be required to complete the 
work and pay the damages, will at the close of the pre- 
sent year, amount to about 7,700,000, which will be 
chargeable with an annual interest of about 420,000. In 
reference to the payment of the interest and the extin- 
guishment of the principal of this debt, the following 
calculation is submitted. 

The income of the canal fund during the year 1826, 

by a very moderate computation, maybe estimated as 

follows : 

From the duties on salt, $145,000 

" steam-boat tax 5,000 

" duties on sales at auction, 200,000 

'' canal tolls, 500,000 



Total, 850,000 
Considering the probable amount of expenditures 
in repairs, improvements and superintendence which 
will be necessary in 1825, and in 1826, it may be esti- 
mated that, for these purposes, there will be required, 
for each year thereafter, for nine years the sum of 

$100,000 
Add the interest one year, 420,000 

520,000 



170 APPENDIX. 

Which deducted from the receipts of 1826, 
leaves an excess of 330,000 

This yearly excess will be augmented by the avails of 
the canal fund, but principally from the increasing 
amount of tolls, at an average of $76,000 a year, for the 
next 9 years ; and will, at the end of that period, rate 
the annual income to $1,625000. 

RATES OF TOLL, 

ON THE ERIE AND CHAMFLAIN CANALS. 

Cents. Mills- 
On salt manufactured in this state, perton,^ 

per mile, 5 

On gypsum, the product of this state, per ton, 

per mile, 5 

On brick, sand, lime, stone unwrought, clay, 
earth, leached ashes, manure and iron ore, 
per toil, per mile, 5 

On household furniture per ton, per mile, 1 

On timber, squared and round, per 100 so- 
lid feet, per mile, 1 
On boards, plank and scantling reduced to 
inch measure, and all siding lath, and o- 
ther sawed stuff less than one inch thick, 
per M feet, per mile, if conveyed in boats. 
The same, if transmitted in rafts, per mile, 
On shingles, if conveyed in boats, per M, 

per mile. 
The same, if transported by rafts, 
On split posts and rails for fencing, per M, 

per mile, 
The same if transported in rafts, 
On wood for fuel, (except such as may be 
used in the manufacture of salt, which 
shall be exempt from toll,) one cent per 
cord, per mile, if in boats, 
The same in rafts. 
On staves and heading, for pipes, per M, per 

mile, 
On do. for hogsheads, per M, per mile, 



1 





2 


G 





2 





4 


4 





8 





1 





2 





1 








7 



APPENDIX. J 71 

On do for bari-els, or other vessels of less 
size, 5 

On all staves and heading, if transported 
by rafts, twice the above rates, 

On boats made and used chiefly for the 

transportation of property, per mile, S 

On boats used chiefly for the transportation 
of persons, excepting those which pass on 
thejunction canal, per mile, 20 

On boats of the above description, which pass 
on thejunction canal, and which are not 
connected with the regular lines of boats 
for the transportation of passengers on the 
Erie or Champiain canals, i ler mile, 50 

On all articles not enumerated, which are 
passing towards tide water, per ton, per, 
mile, 1 5 

On all articles not enumerated, passing from 

tide water, per ton, per mile, 3 

Passengers in freight boats, estimated at 150 

lbs. each, per ton, per mile, 1 5 

Passengers under 12 years old, in freight boats, 
to be estimated at 75 lbs ea 
Ordered that hereafter the above Rates of Toll be 

charged and collected on the Erie, Champiain and junc- 
tion Canals. 

STEPHEN VAN RENSSELAER, 
SAMUEL YOUNG, 
HENRY SEYMOUR, 
WILLIAM C. BOUCK, 

March 17, 1825. 

Canals in Great Britain. 

There are in Great Britain and Ireland 103 canals, of 
which 97 belong to England, 5 to Scotland, and one to 
Ireland. In this number none are included which are 
not more than 6 miles long. The total extent of these 
canals is 2682 1-4 miles ; of which 2471 are in England. 
149 3-4 in Scotland, and 69 1-2 in Ireland. Thirty mil- 



172 APPENDIX. 

lions sterling is the value of the cost. The stock of some 
of these r >se in a few years to 10 or 20 times its original 
value These various canals present 48 subterranean 
passages, 40 of which have an extent of aboat 32 English 
miles. None of these works., important as they are, 
•were projected prior to 1755. The patriotic and en- 
lightened zeal, of the Duke of Bridgewater, and the tal- 
ents of Brindley, gav« the first decisive impulse to their 
inaprovemements in 1769. There is now scarcely a i^oint 
of importance in England, that has not a water commu- 
nication with every other. 



The Route from Boston 

lo 

VVINNIPISEOGEE LAKE 

and the 
WHITE MOUNTAINS m JVcw Hampshire. 

Too much cannot be said to the traveller in favour of 
this deligiitful region, if he I e a man of taste, as all that 
he especially loves in the var\Miigface of nature is here 
presented to view, by a country abounding with the 
most sublime and interesting objects and scenes to be 
found in the whole circuit of New England, scenes 
which, while present to the eye, communicate the high- 
est pleasure, and at parting leave a deep and permanent 
impression on the mind which can never be forgotten. 
It is the object of this book to point out the most agree- 
able routes, and to make known channels of communi- 
cation, which although every one is not apprised of 
them, may be found convenient and valuable; calculat- 
ed to favour the pursuits of taste, and to gratify the 
wishes of those who would meet at our great fashionable 
watering places, whether in search of health or recrea- 
tion or friends, among the gay crowds which annually 
assemble there. 

It is not within the plan of this first edition of " The 
Northern Traveller" to admit any thing more than a 
hasty sketch of places far removed from the principal 
routes mentoned in the title-page. It is intended, how- 
ever, at a future time, to make large additions to the 
work, and to give a particular account of this part of 
the country, which has been, not unappropriately, 
named the Switzerland of the United States, by em- 
bracing the journey up the Merrimack, as well as the 
tour of Winnipiseogee Lake, the White Hills, he. The 
following hints concerning the routes may be found of 
some advantage ; and the descriptions of the principal 
P2 



174 APPENDIX. 

objects seen from the Red Hill and Mount Washington 
will be read with interest. 

Stage Coaches run to Concord from Boston, as well 
as Portsmouth, and others from that place in various 
other directions. 



CONCORD, N. H. 

Inns. — There are several good inns in this town, but 
the principal and best are the great stage houses nearly 
opposite each other, and just south of the State House. 

Concord is a flourishing place and the capital of New 
Hampshire. If the traveller is going towards the White 
Mountains, it is the only lar^e town he will see for some 
days. It stands principally on a single street, which is 
of considerable length and convenient breadth, lined 
with many large and respectable buildings, and running 
parallel with the Merimack, which is at a short distance 
on the east. 

A direct water communication is kept up between this 
river and Boston through the Middlesex canal, by means 
of boats, which carry merchandize down for $5 a ton, 
and bring it up for $7. 

QU,\RRY. 

There is a large quarry of granite near Concord, which 
affords stone almost as white as marble, probably the 
finest building stone in the United States. If the stran- 
ger has arrived at Concord from the north, he will have 
seen enough of the quality of the rocks to prevent him 
from being surprised at the occurrence of so valuable a 
quarry as that near the town, as he must have observed 
the abundance of fine granite scattered over the country 
in large boulders, or rolled rocks, and noticed the im- 
portant uses to which it is applied. They may be tra- 
ced along the road all the way from this place to 'he 
neighbourhood of Connecticut river; and although the 
stones differ in their texture from the finest grain to those 
which contain chrystals of feldspar three or four inches 
in length, they all resemble each other in the freedom 
and justness olF their fracture. 



APPENDIX. 175 

It is not for a lias'cy traveller to inlerraeddle with con- 
jectures; but it will doubtless lead to the discoveiy of ma- 
ny interesting facts, when this tract of country is examin- 
ed at leisure by men of science and research, and these 
immense and numerous rocks traced back to the moun- 
tains and peaks from which they have been formerly torn 
away by some tremendous exertion of nature. 

The quari7 is two miles north of Concord, A single 
mass of rock occupied the woi-kraen for several months 
during the season of 1824. 



The State House 

occupies a conspicuous situation near the middle of the 
town a little removed from the street, and surrounded 
by a handsome stone wall enclosing an area. It is built 
of hewn granite from the quarry, and is a neat edifice, 
100 feet long, with a large hall on the first floor, and on 
the second the Senate and Representatives' Chami.ers, 
with the committee rooms, state offices, he. he. The 
view from the top is extensive, but embraces a tract of 
<Jountry too little cultivated io be rich and too unvaried 
to be picturesqe. At the northward are seen two or 
three distinct peaks, which may serve as an earnest of th» 
magnificent scenery to be furnished to the traveller in 
fhat direction- 



The State Prison 

is built at a short distance from the State House, and 
bears a still .-create, appearance of solidity and strength. 
There is an Academy of some consequence in Con- 
cord, with several ciurches. No less than four news 
papers are printed here, and gazettes from distant places 
maybe found at the inns. Farmer &. Moore's Gazet- 
teer of New Hampshire is the best companion for a trav« 
eller in this state. 



Roads. 

Several lines of sf age-coachcss meet in this town three 
firafts a week. Three go to Boston, one to Forl'smouth-, 



176 APPENDIX. 

one to Plymouth, one to Haverhill, and one to Bnrling- 
lon by the way of Windsor. Another line will probably 
be established between this place and Conway, on thp 
road to the Notch in the Mountains, whence it is intended 
to send another by the Notch to Bath on Connecticut 
river. 

There is a road on each side of the Lake towards 
Conway, but that on the west is recommended — At all 
event the traveller should spend a day at Center Har- 
bour. 

For some miles before reaching this place, the country 
begins to assume the features of bold and mountain sce- 
nery. Even before arriving at the lake, the prospect is 
varied with many of those noble elevations which rise to 
such a height of grandeur and sublimity as the traveller 
proceeds ; and the frequent glimpses afforded between 
the sloping hills, over the beautiful lake below, by a hap- 
py contrast encrease the effect. The number and diver- 
sity of the islands with which the lake is spangled, will 
be objects of particular admiration. They are countless 
for multitude, and in size present all the gradations be- 
tween a single rock, and a surface sufficient for several 
extensive farms. 



At CENTRE HARBOUR 

There are two inns, at either of which the traveller may 
find himself comfortable, and where he will be amply re- 
warded, if the weather be fine, by stopping at lea.st a day 
to make an excursion to the top of 

RED MOUNTAIN. 

This eminence may be about 1500 feet in lieight, and 
is accessible for about two thirds of the way in a car- 
riage or on horseback, though not without some difficul- 
ty, on account of the steepness and roughness of the 
road. Indeed tlie path is very rocky for half a mile or 
more before reaching the base of the mountain, and the 
hardy pedestrian will prefer to leave his horse at the 
main road, before turning off by the mill. The travel- 
ler should direct his course towards a little notch lie will 



APPENDIX. i:; 

see about three quarters of the distance up, where a cuj- 
livated field and a fence are visible. From the hoase 
siturvted there, he must turn towards the left,aad follow a 
path to the summit. 

An early visit is recommended, as the scene is muc.h 
improved by an oblique light, and the naoruingis on seve 
ral accounts to be preferred. 

The following sketch of the scene was noted^down ou 
he spot, and may be taken as generally correct. 



ViE\7 EI103I Red MouxTAxy. 

j^^ortJi, the eastern end of Squam Lake, and part of a 
pond lying near it, with the range of the Sandwich 
mountains behind, stretching off to\^'ards the east, with 
numerous dark brown peaks, partly cultivated about 
their bases, and enveloped above with forests, excepting 
their summits, which are generally divested of vedure. 
Far beyond these appear several loftier peaks, which 
jnight be mistaken for the White Mountains, were they 
Tisible from this point. An intermediate peak with 
rocky precipicea may be White-faced Mountain, 

East Korth East, 

The eye I'anges up the spacious valley through which 
lies the way to the White Mountains ; and the road 
"Which .s to conduct the traveller seems diminished to the 
dimensions of a garden walk. Chocaway, or as it is fa- 
miliarly called Cor ro w'a^/ Peafc, rises on tlie left; while 
rhe noble ridge of the Osat^ee Mountains begins nearer at 
hand on the right, and almost over-shadows the obsei ver 
With its enoi'mous size. The sides of these mountains 
show a beautiful display of farms, interspersed with wood 
lots and dwellings, which in many places have encroach- 
ed far up towards the summits, and in others pursue the 
slope of the fertile uplands to the valley at their feet. 
jN^umerous elevations appear at a greater distance, and 
range themselves in lines to complete the perspective of 
a most m.agnificent vista, which finally closes at a ridge 
whose shade is reduced by its remoteness to the colour of 
'-•.lond. A prominent and remarkable mnitntain whirh a 



178 APPENDIX. 

appears scarcely less distant, is called Pickwaket Mouji - 
tain, and rises by the Saco River, near the place where 
Captain Lovell fought his well known battle with the 
Indians ; and the fine valley between, is the country 
passed over in that fatal expedition, both in the approach 
and the retreat. 

East. 

The view abuts upon the Ossipee mountains, and no 
variety is afforded till we turn to the 



South South East. 

In that direction, and farther to the right, the whole 
surface ofWinnipiseogeeLake lies charmingly spread out 
to view, varied by numerous points and headlands, 
and interspersed with beautiful islands which man de- 
spairs to number. Several distant elevations appear, on 
this side of which the sloping land just mentioned extends 
for several miles along the shore, with a well cultivated 
surface spotted in all directions with large barns and farm- 
Jiouses, to the very margin of the lake. There numerous 
points run out far into the water, to complete the laby- 
rinths formed by the islands. Gunstock mountain rises 
one point East of South, just on the left of which opens 
the entrance to Merry-meeting Bay. The elevated is- 
lands on the right of that is Rattlesnake Island, named 
from the venomous reptiles with which it abounds ; over 
this the distant land appears high. South by West 
rises a high hill resembling the Ossipee in the richness of 
its slopes. 

The South West and West is agreeably varied with 
wood lots and cleared fields, scattered over an undulated 
surface, which extends for many miles, in some places 
quite to the horizon, and in others to the broken bounda- 
ry of tall but distant mountains. In the South West ap- 
pear two or three peaks, so far removed that they are al- 
most lost in the blue of the sky. Nearly West are seen 
several ridges of inferior magnitude, which approaching 
as the eye slowly moves towards the left, at length come 
near the lake, and disappear behind the neighbouring 
mountains. 



APPENDIX. 179 

Long Pond may be distinguished by its shining surface 
between the West and South, with several other little 
sheets of water which lie in tranquility among the shelter 
of the hills. 

Winnipiseogee Lake is 19 miles in length, from Center 
Harbour to Alton, at the south eastern extremity. Mer- 
ry-meeting Bay lies beyond. Several of the islands are 
large and contain good farms and wealthy inhabitants, 
although only two or three of them belong to any town, 
or pay any taxes. Some of their names are Rattlesnake, 
Cow, Bear, and Moon Island ; also Half-mile, One mile, 
Two mile island, &c. &c. None of them contain chur- 
ches ; and although they have no school-houses, yet suffi* 
oient attention is paid to the rudiments of education, to 
render the children intelligent. 

SauAM Lake 

lies West from Red Mountain ; and like Winnipiseogee 
Lake abounds not only in islands but in fish of the finest 
descriptions. Fine trout are caught here in great abun- 
dance, and of a size superior to those of the other lake. 
The trout of Winnipiseogee Lake vary from one to four 
pounds in weight, while those of Squam Lake are between 
four and ten. They are sometimes caught of nearly 
double that size ; but that is very uncommon. The 
trout fishery is chiefly carried on during the winter, when 
great quantities are salted for the Boston Market. Perch 
also abound very much in these waters, and are remarka- 
bly fine. 

Geologt. 

The sides of Red Mountain are covered with half de- 
composed granite. (On the South Eastern side of the 
lake a bed of porcelain clay has been dicovered, which is 
probably dprived from a similar source.) The granite is 
speckled with hornblende and black mica. No rocks to 
be seen in Situ except near the summit, where they bear 
a gentle dip towards the North, and are slightly tingec! 
TTith reddish quartz and feldspar. 



TaO APPENDIX. 

The hue of the shrubbery in autumn has given the 
-nountam its name. The summit is strewed with loose 
is-agmeiits, and musquetoes and black Jlies ohen abound 
ihave. 

A few days may be spent at centre Harbour very a- 
gieeably, in making shooting; and tishing- excursions in 
the neighbourhood, or in sailing upon the Lake, which 
aV>ounds in the most interesting variety of scenes. On 
leaving this place by water, at the distance of five miles 
the vV'.iite Mountains rise into view above thn interme- 
diate peaks, and continue in sight quite across the Lake. 

A f'^^w deer are still found m some places in the neigh- 
t:.c-?rhood,but being protected by law, and still more by 
;h''ir scarcity, are very rarely taken. 

From Centre Harbour to Corneal/, IS mile?. Stop at 
^^bbett's, which is a good private inn. 

Tht'Journey from Centre Harbour to Conway is over 
u fmf but thinly populated country. At that place the 
range of the White Mountains opens to view^ in the most 
i.:ia::n;ficent manner. 

The shortest road from Conway to the mountains 
iRBds directly to Bartlett; but the most travelled as wellt 
^s the most agreeable route is by the way of Fryeburg, 
where will be seen the beautiful tract of level country 
through Avhich meanders the Saco river, and the great 
Pickwaket Mountain which rises from its border. 
That was the favourite residence of the once powerful 
nation of Pickwaket Indians, an/i on the bank of 
I.ovel!'9 Pond, was fought a bloody battle between 
theui nnd a company of troops from Machachusetts, in 
f.hey< ar 1725, just a century ago. 

Through Fryeburg passe? the Portland mail road. 
Bartlett is a comfortable village situated in a rich valley,, 
Gj interv.d, where the view is bounded on every side by 
near and lofty mountains. The inn of the place is kept 
by Judge Un\l. Pursuing still the course of 'he narrow 
valley, against the current of the Saco, the country is 
found destitute of inhabitants, excepting only three or 
four poor families, until arriving at 



APPENDIX. 1^1 

Crawford's FAjRsr, 

Seven and a half miles south of the Notch. Here the 
traveller will be cheerfully and comfortably entertained, 
although the house does not wear the sign of an inn. 
This is the place from which visitors formerly began their 
excursions to the summit of the mountains : but the best 
place is at Ethan A. Crawford's farm, 12 miles beyond. 
trospect Mountain, one of the five principal peaks, 
presents itself to view a little before arriving at the first 
Crawford's, with its smooth rounded summit of brown 
moss, rising several hundred feet above the region of 
vegetation, and offering an aspect which distinguishes 
these from the other elevations. 

The Notch House 

is situated in a secluded little valley, about 5 miles north 
of Crawford's, and is the only building seen in a distance 
of 12 miles. It is however never inhabited during the 
summer season, though open, with its cheerless 9helter,t(> 
all comers : in the winter a family occupies it to keep a 
fire, lodgings and a little food prepared for the travel- 
lers and waggoners, who might otherwise perish for 
want of the necessaries of life. 

The road rises with a steep ascent for a considerable 
distance before it reaches the Notch, and the traveller 
observes two cataracts, one pouring down a precipitous 
mountain, at a distance on the west side of the valley^ 
and the other, which is called 

The Flume, 

rushing down on the right hand, and crossing the road 
under a bridge. The scenery is sublime and impressive 
beyond description. 

The Notch 

is so narrow as to allow only rdom enough for the path 
and the Saco, which is here a mere brook only four feet 
m breadth. Two rocks stand at the slde^ of this re^ 



182 APPENDIX. 

raarkable passage, one 12 and the olheF about 20 feet iu 
perpendicular height. A little meadow opens beyond, 
und after a ride of 4 1-2 miles, the traveller reaches a 
'•omfortable house, just completed by Mr. E. A. CraAV- 
iord, where he will be received and entertained. The 
next house isRo?ebrook's, 6 miles beyond. 

Crawford's House 

is the place where those who meditate the ascent of 
Mount Washington, will stop for a day or more. The 
master of the house will act as a guide, and is well 
qualified for the office, both by his intimate acquaint- 
ance with the way, and the various kind attentions and 
(musing anecdotes with which he knows how to re- 
lieve the tediousness of the ascent. The best arran^, e- 
Hientisto set out in the afternoon, spend the night at the 
weekwam or " Camp,''^ ascend the mountain early in the 
raarning to have the benefit of the view by sun-rise, 
.id "etuni to Crawford's before the ensuing evening. 

The ascent of the mountain was formerly a most ar- 
vluous undertaking, and was very rarely performed, 

• though three ladies are enumerated among tltose who 
g;aiiied the summit before the present facilities were af- 
forded. The whole way lies through a perfect forest. 
A foot.-patii baa been made by Mr. Crawford, which 
however is impa^^-sable for a horse. The first seven miles 
are oyer a surface comparatively level ; but the last two 
miles and a quarter are up an ascent not differing much 
from au angle of forty-five degrees. The streams of the 
Ammonoosuc river, which are to be crossed seven times, 
add not a little to the inconveniences of the journey ; 
but a comfortable bed, and' a lire, (if the weuther be 

; chill.) will be found, very wekomo at 

The Camp, 

6 3-4 milea from Crawford's. Here provisions of difler- 
i at kinds will be produced, and even cooked by a cheer- 
•fiii i'.re, and if the travellers arc sportsmen, andthe sea- 
son h faTOi'irable, a dish of fine trout may^oonbe cb 



APPEN'DiX 183 

tfiioed ft-om the romantic little stream which dashes by 
■within twenty yards of the encampment. 

The ascent of Mount Washington begins just at har.:,. 
and the most arduous exertion will be necessary to at- 
tain the summit, which seems to fly before the strangei 
when he deems it just i:ttained, and to look down in de- 
rision from a new and more hopeless height. The first 
part of the way is through a thick forest of heavy timber, 
which is suddenly succeeded by a girdle of dwarf and 
knarled fir-trees, which ending as suddenly asthey began^ 
^ive place to a k'md of short bushes, and finally a thin 
bed of moss, not half sufficient to conceal the immense 
g^ranite rocks which deform the surface. A few straggling 
spiders and several species of little flowering plants are 
the only objects thnt attract the attention under the 
feet. 



VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT. 

In a clear atmosphere the view is sublime and almost 
boundless. The finest part of it lies towards the South- 
EaM and South. Looking down the valley through 
which the road ha^ conducted us, a fine succession of 
mountainous summits appears for many miles below, 
"whiie the bright surface of Winnipiseogee Lake, spread 
out like a clear mirror,presents a charming object m tlie' 
distance, with its variegated shores and placid bosom 

Towards the south east also, the eye ranges over '.!' 
extent of surface which quite bewilders the rri 
Mountains, hills and vallies, farm-houses, villag. 
towns, add their variety to the natural feature? - 
country ; and the ocean may be discovered at the ' ■ 
zon with the help of a telescope, although the sh-i; 
sight perhaps has never been able to distinguish it v. 
out such assistance. In that direction lies Por'la;-. 
capital of Maine. 

On the nortlt east is seen the valley of the And; '?.co-^ 
gin river, which abounds in wild and romantic scenery, 
and was the usual passage by. which the Indians, in their 
hostile incursions from Canada, used to approach the 



384 APPENDIX. 

eastern frontier settlements of Massachusetts and New- 
Hampshire. 

Norths the country is more wild and uncultivated ; 
and 

WesU the nearer view is over a mountainous region, 
covered with a thick forest, through which only an oc- 
casional opening is perceived, formed by the farms (or 
clearings) of the hardy inhabitants. Beyond, the hills 
are seen to rise from the opposite shore of Connecticuc; 
river, the surface of v/hich is every where hidden from 
view, and the summits rising higher and higher, termi- 
nate in the ridges of the Green Mountains in Vermont. 



Geology. 

Loose iragments of granite are every wliere scattered 
o\'er the mountain, with some specimens of gneiss. The 
granite is generally grey, and at first fine grained, but 
g:rows coarser as we ascend and is occasionally sprin- 
kled with small garnets. At the summit it frequently 
contains a little black tourmaline, sometimes in cros- 
sing crystals. On the summit also some of the granite is 
tinged with red, although much of it is coloured bright 
gieen by lichens, dampened by the humidity of the clouds, 
and interspersed with thick and soft grey moss. The 
grain of the coarse granite is elongated; and what 
strikes the visitor as very singular, is, that not a single 
rock is to be found in its original place — every thnig 
bears the mark of removal ; and this taken into view 
with the precipice on the northern side seems to indicate, 
fhat the summit of the mountain has fallen down and 
disappeared.— 

The be?t road west leads through Bethlehem to Bath, 



LIST OF 



CAI^AXS, ROADS, &c. 

proposed since this xcork uas put io prc-ss^ in those parts 
of the country to Tvhich it refers. 



CONEWANGO CANAL. 

At a meeting held at Conewango on the 8th of Feb- 
ruary, it v/as 

Resolved, That a union of the waters of the Erie ca- 
nal and the waters of the Allegany River would be 
highly advantageous to the state, and that no route pre- 
sents fewer obstacles or greater facilities for canaliing 
than that from Buttalo to the Conewango Creek. 

Resolved, Th&t Jarnes M'Glitshan^ George v^. 6. Crook- 
cry Thomas F. Palmer. J^athun bla r/r, He ry hay, 
J^eii Chenny. and Leios HoWrook, be a committee to 
correspond with other similar committees, and to 
take such other measures as may be by them deemed 
advisable for the accomplishment of the enterprize. 

Catskill and Schoharie Canal. 

At a meeting of the inhabitants of the town of Cat- 
skill held at the Court House, on Monday evening, the 
2 1st day of February 1825, for the purpose of taking 
into consideration the propriety oi applying to the le- 
gislature for an act, incorporating a company, with suf- 
ficient capital to construct a Canal from the village of 
Catskill, along the valley of the Catskill Creek, to its 
head waters in the town of Middleburgh, in the county 
of Schoharrie ; and from thence the most eligible route 
(o the Erie Canal. — 
Q2 



m APPENDIX. 

Resotvetl, That an application be made to the iegi:v 
iature for an act incorpoi-ating a committee for the jjur- 
poses herein mentioned, and that a memorial be drawn 
\ip and circulated, to bring the subject before the legis- 
lature. 



Buffalo and Olean Canal. 
A plan v'as formed at Buffalo for a canal to the Olean. 

Battenkill Canal- 

The inhabitants of Manchester, Vt. held a meeting on 
the 9th April for the purpose of concerting measures for 
opening a canal from the head waters of the Battenkill, 
which takes its vise in the town of Dorset, (north of 
Manchester) to extend through Jackson, Washington 
bounty, to Lansingburgh and Troy. The meeting ap- 
pointed a committee to meet and confer with another 
committee of the town of White Creek, Washington 
county, on the 15th ult. The IManchester meeting 
•was adjourned to the 22d. 

0>tabio and Erie Canal in Canada. 

The House of Assembly of Upper Canada have re- 
solved to subscribe 10(.),000 dollars towards making a 
danal from Lake Erie to Lake Ojitario. 

Seventeen new Canal Routes 

in rVew York, of which the surveyes were authorised 
by the Legislature in 1825. 

From Seneca lake to the Chemung river, at or near 
the village of New Town ; from Syracuse in Onondago 
country, to Fort Watson in the county of Courtland, 
and also from Chenango Point up the valley of the Che- 
nango river, through the town of Norwich to the Erie 
Canal ; from the Susquehannah river up the valley of 
the Uuadilla to the Erie Canal ; from the Cayuga lake 
to the Susquehannah river, at or near the village of Os- 



APPENDIX. iS: 

wego ; tVom the Erie canal in the countrj' of Herki- 
mer, to the upper waters of Black river, thence on the 
most eligible route to the St Lawrence, at or near Og- 
•densburgh ; from the Erie canal, Lear the village of 
Rome, in the county of Oneida, by the way of the Black 
River, to Ogdensburgh ; from Rochester to Allegany 
river, at Olean, through the valley of the Genesee river ; 
from Scottsville, by the way of Le Roy, to the Upper 
falls of the Genesee river; from the Champlain canal to 
the Vermont Line, along the valley of the Battenkill, or 
by any more eligible route ; from Lake Erie to the Alle- 
gany river, through the valley of the Conewango, and 
from the Alle any river at Olean, to the Erie canal, by 
way of the village of Batavia ; from Portland, in Chau- 
tauque country, to the head of the Chautaugue lake ; 
from the village of Catskill, on the Hudson river, 
along the valley of the Catskill and Schoharie creeks, 
to intersect the Erie canal, west of the Schoharie creek ; 
between Gravesend bay, Ja i aica bay. Great South bay, 
and South-Hampton bay, and across Canoe place to 
Southhold bay on Long-Island ; from or near Sharon 
to the tide waters of the Hudson, at or near the mouth 
of Croton river or to the city of New York ; and from 
the village of Rochester, in the county of Monroe, to 
Lake Ontario. 

Chickopee Canal. 

A meeting has been held in Boston on the subject of 
forming a canal from the the Chickopee river to some- 
where in the vicinity of Boston, in order to connect the 
Waters of the Connecticut with that harbour. 



Canal between the Connecticut and Merrimac. 

Another plan has been formed for the same object as 
that last mentioned, but connected with a different tract 
of country. It proposes to connect the Connecticut 
with the Merrimac in New Hampshire, by a canal of 
25 miles through Plymouth ; or by a canal of 12 miles 
from Baker's river a branch of the Merrimac, to the 
Connecticut at Wentworth. 



ISO APPENDIX. 

The bill for a Canal between Cayuga J^ake and Sc^f:- 
m River has passed the New York Legislature. 

iMPnOVEMENT OF THE NAVIGATION OF 

CoNNECTicnx River. 

At a meeting held at Windsor by 215 delegates from 
Vermont, New Hampshire, Massachusetts and Connec- 
ticut, resolutions were adopted calculated to form and 
carry into effect a plan to combine the interests of all 
Ihe canals and improvements through the valley of the 
Connecticut, and to invest the property of all in a single 
corporation, or cor; orations, to be established under the 
authority of the several States, upon such principles as 
shall secure the greatest benefit to the public, and a fair 
remuneration to those concerned. A committee was ap- 
pointed to aid such corporation or corporations as may 
be organized, in procuring such rights and property as 
may be advantageously combined in the proposed sys- 
tem of improvement. Another committee was appoin- 
ted to digest a plan of operations and to apply to the 
Legislatures for charters, and grants of the necessary 
power and pri ileges. A memorial to Congress was 
also voted praying for aid in a system of improved navi- 
gation through the valley of the Connecticut, to Lake 
Memvliremagog. Sundry resolutions were adopted, 
stating the views of the convention ; and other commit- 
tees, besides those above mentioned, were appointed, 
for the purpose of carrying those views into execution. 

Oswego River. 

The New York Legislature have authorized the im- 
provement of the navigation of Oswego River. 



THE NEW YORK STATE ROAD. 

A project for the construction of a great road through 
the southern counties of New York, from the Hudson 
river to L«ke Erie, was submitted to a committee of 



APPENDIX. 189 

the House ofRepresentatives at Albany, and from their 
report the following extracts are selected for this 
■work. 
It is believed, that at least 50 tons a day, on an avera°:e, 
are now transported into the interior, in the direction of 
the contemplated road, from a dnoje point on the Hud- 
son river. And in the event of the completion of this 
road, it is calculated that this amount would be increas- 
ed to 100 tons. The price of transportation is, at least 
20 cents a mile per ton, 60 dollars per ton for the whole 
distance of the contemplated road. Allowing, however, 
only 25 tons as the daily transportation each way, on 
the entre route of the road, and it produces the enor- 
mous sum of 1,000,000 a year, for the single item of 
transportation. If an easy and safe state road was con- 
constructed, free of tolls, it is estimated that the price 
of transportation would be reduced at least 50 per cent ; 
thus showing a saving of $500,000 in the expenses of 
trasportation in a single year. 

In ihis section of the state, to the distance of nearly 
one hundred miles frum the Hudson river, salt. Iron, 
iime and gypsum, articles cumbrous and of the first ne- 
cessity, are transported by land, to supply the wants of 
the interior country ; and added to the other domestic 
products, lumber and ashes, (within this distance,) form 
important items in the return lading. 

From a careful and deliberate review of all the facts 
and considerations, connected with this subject, the 
committee are decidedly of opinion, that the strongest 
motives of policy, as well as of justice combine to re- 
commend the proposed measure of constructing a state 
road from the Hudson river to Lake Erie, to the favora- 
ble consideration of the legislature. 

The whole expense (a distance of about 300 miles,) 
is estimated m $500,000. The interest upon this sura 
atSper cent, would be $i5,000 per annum. The road 
at a reasonable rate of toll, it is supposed might be 
kept in good repair, and yield to the state an annual 
revenue of 2 1-2 per cent, upon its cost. This would 
leave a balance of 2 1-2 per cent, or ^12,500 of the in- 
terest annually to be provided for; together "with the 
gradual extinguishntiept of the principal. 



190 APPENDIX. 

To meet and provide for this, the committee would 
propose an increase of the dnty on sales at auction, of 1-2 
per cent, which would yield an additional revenue of 
about $75,000 per annum applicable to the purposes of 
constructing the Great State li.oad. 

This sum would, in the course of only 8 years, not only 
pay the interest but extinguish the principal of the ne- 
cessary loans for this purpose. 

[The survey of tliis road has been authorized by the 



STZI^M-BOi^TS. 



ARRANGEMENTS PUBLISHED IN APRIL 18^J 



PaoM Albany | From New-York 

Far J^eic-York, calling at the] For Albany, calliiig at the 



iniennediate places, price $4 

DAILY. 
'* Old Line." Larg^e boats. 
James Kent, {fast sailer. 
Chancellor Livingston., and 
Kichmond. 

One of these boats goes 
every morning at 10 o'clock. 

Office, corner of South- 
Market and Lydius-streets. 

{Prices proportional for 
intermediaie distances.) 



intermediate places, price $4. 
DAILY. 
"Old Line." 
James Kent, 

Chancellor Livingston^ and 
Richmond. 

One of these boats goes 
every day except Sundays 
at 5 P. M. and on Sundays 
at 10 A. M. 

{Prices for intermediata 
places in proportion to dist. 



The boats belonging to this Company are now in ex- 
cellent order ; they all have copper boilers, and engines 
on the low pressure system, and in order that travellers 
may have perfect confidence in their safety, the captains 
and enghietjrs have positive instructions not to carry 
higher steam than they have always done heretofore. 



Henry Eckford, 
Small boat, high pressure, 
and very fast. She carries 
freight in connection with 
the Canal Transportation, 
and takes passengers at ^3. 
Goes Monday, Wednes- 
day j-'id Friday,at 7 o'cluck 
>a the 'aorning', u-nd arrives 



Henry Eckford. 
Small boat, high pressva-e^ 
and vei'y fast. Price ,^3. 

Goes Tuesday, Thursday, 
and Saturday, at 7 o'clock in 
the morning, and reaches 
Albany about 9 P. M. 

Goes from Uie foot of Rec- 
tor-street, Norlh River. 

Freight and pussengeT?, 



192 AVPENDIX. 



From New- York. 
To Troy, Daily^ calling at 
the intermediate places. 
Chief Justice Marshall 
Constellation, and 
Constitution, large boats. 

Go from the foot of Liber- 
ty-street, North River. 



Frobi TroYi 
For New- York, Daiiij: 
calling at the intermediate 
places. 

Chief Justice Marshall,/as/; 
Constellation, and 
Constitution, large boats. 



RHODE ISLAND STEAM-BOAT LINE. 

The Fulton, Captain Role-t S. Bunker, will depart 
for Providence on Wednesdi^y-. at three o'clock, P. M. 
and the Connecticut, Capt. Comstock, on Saturdays at 
3 P. M. 

From Providence. 

The Connecticut will be despatched every Wednesday 
at 3 o'clock, P. M. and the Fulton every Saturday, at the 
same hour Coaches run in connection. 

[Now a boat leaves ^ ew-York every Tuesday, Thurs- 
day and Saturday at 3 o'clock, P. M. and one from 
I*rovidence on the same days and at the same hour.] 

NEW-YORK AND BOSTON STEAM-BOAT LINE 

via JVeiv London. 

The new Steam Boat NEW.LO>'DON, goes to New- 
London and Norwich every Tuesday and' Saturday at 4 
o'clock P. M. 

A line of Stage coaches is established in connection 
with it from N. London to Boston, through Providence, 
and another from Norwich to Boston. 



NEW YORK AND BOSTON STEAM BOAT LJNE, 
via HARTFORD. 

The New Steam Boat Oliver FJhwortn fBunie] Havens, 
Master, leaves New York on Tuesdays and Fridays, at 4 
P. M. ; leaves Hartford on Mondays and Thursdav^, at 
IT A.M. 



APPENDIX. 193 

Stages will "be in readiness on the arrival of the boat 
at Hartford, to forward passengers to Boston, Vermont 
and New Hampshire. 

N. B. The Steam Boat Oliver Ellsworth, has a first rate 
Engine, constructed upon the Bolton and Watt, or Low 
Pres57,/re principle ; and for convenience and safety, i.-; 
probably not surpassed by any Boat in this country. 

NEW-HAVEN STEAM BOAT LINES. 

The Providence Capt. Toralinson, (small boat,) runs 
between New-York and New-Haven, three times a 
^veek, from Fulton Market Slip, East River. 



Also. 

Steam boat United States, Capt. John Brooks, jr. 
■will leave New-Haven, Monday, Wednesday, and 
Friday evenings. Passengers are requested to be 
on board at 8 o'clock. She will leave New-York, Tues- 
day and Thursday mornings at 9 o'clock, and Saturday^ 
at 4 o'clock P. M. from the west side of Flymarket slip. 
Stages will be in readiness on the arrival of the boat in 
New^-Haven to take passengers to Hartford, Providence 
and Boston. The company having purchased the new 
and elegant boat Hudson, she will shortly commence 
forming a daily line for the season. Both boats are fitt- 
ed with births and their accommodations are very exten- 
sive and commodious. Fare $3. 



BRIDGEPORT STEAM-BOAT. 

The Steam Boat Gen. La Fayette, Capt. Joseph B. 
French, will commence running, for the season, between 
Bridgeport and New-York, on Monday the2Istinsf. 
She wil. leave Bridgeport on Monday, Wednesday and 
Friday evenings at 7 o'clock, and New-York on Tues- 
day and Thursday at 10 o'clock in the morning; and on 
Saturday a 5 o'clock in the afternoon, from t' e east 
-ide of Fulton Slip. 
R 



.ly4 ^iPPENDIX. 

ty-five cents — Breakfast, Dinner, and Supper, twenty- 
five cents each. 

N. B. The steam boat, in connexion with the packets, 
will sail from Fulton slip and Peck slip eveiy day in the 
week, for Bridgeport, through the season. 

PHILADELPHIA STEAM BOATS, 

UNION LINE, for Philadelphia and Baltimore, at 11 

o'clock, A. M. 
By Steam Boats Thistle, Capt.C. Vanderbilt andTrenton, 

Capt. A. Jenkins 

Via New Brunswick, Princetown, and Trenton, 25 miles 

land Carnage. 

The elegant Steam Boat Thistle will leave the wharf, 
north side the battery, foot of Marketfield st. every day 
(Sundays excepted) at 11 o'clock A. M. for New Bruns- 
wick, where passengers will take post coaches to Tren- 
ton, and lodge ; from thence take the steam boat Tren- 
ton, and arrive at Philadelphia, at 10 o'clock, A.M. 
in time to take the Baltimore Union Line steam boats 
which leaves Philadelphia daily at 12 o'clock noon. 
Fare through to Philadelphia, $3. 

For seats, apply at York House, No. 5 Courtland-st. 
2d office from Broadway ; and at the office, foot of 
Marketfield st. ; or on board the steam boat Thistle. 

Hr All goods, baggage, and specie, at the risk of the 
owners thereof. 

WM. B. JAQUES, Agent, 
For Letsoji cc Bayles, Proprietors. 

EXCHANGE LINE FOR PHILADELPHIA, 

Through in one day via New-Brunswick, Princetou 
and Trenton, by the new and elegant steam boats Legis- 
lature and Congress. 

The Steam Boat Legislature will commence running, 
from Pier No. 2 N. R. foot of Beaver Lane, on Saturday 
morning, the 26th Marcli at 6 o'clock for NewBrunswick, 
where passengers will take the Exchange Line Coaches, 
and proceed via Princeton to Trenton, there take the 



APPENDIX. 195 

frteam "boat Congress, Capt. Degrau, and arrive in Phila- 
delphia the same afternoon. 

The Coaches are new and comfortable, and the public 
may rest assured of every attention and expedition. 

For seats, apply at the' corner of Broadway and Beaver 
Lane, at the office 29 Washington street, or on board 
the steam boatLcgislatur-. — For the proprietors. 

N. DUNN. 



LAKE ERIE STEAM BOAT 
SUPERIOR, J. Sherman, Jun. Master, 
Will sail from Buffalo and Detroit on the following 
days during the season : 
From B ffulo f 9 .4. Jf. From Detroit 4 P. M. 

April 
May 
June 
July 
Aug. - 
Sept. - 
Oct. - 
ISoy. 

The Trip in November to depend on the state of the 
weather. Passengers will be la ded and received at 
Eri , Grand River, Cleaveland and Sandusky, as usual, 
unles prevented by stress of weather. If a trip should 
be made to the Upper Lakes this season, due notice will 
be given. The Boat is in complete order, and it is be- 
lieved there will be no disappointment in the regulai' 
Failing of the boat during the season, accidents excepted. 

KENNEBEC STEAM-BOAT LINE, 

FROM BOSTON TO EASTPORT. 

EASTERN ROUTE. 
The Patent, leaves Boston, Thursday, at 5 A. M. 
and arrives at Portland, Thursday, at 8 o'clock P. M. 
leaves Portland, Friday 5 A. M. and arrives at Bath 
Friuay, 11, A. M. T e VVaterville leaves Bath, Friday, 
1 P. M. and arrives at Augusta, Friday 7 P. M. The 



20, 29, 1825. 


April - 


. 25, 








7, 16, 25, 


May - 


3, 


11, 


20, 


30, 


4, 13, 21, 29, 


June - 


■ 8, 


17, 


25, 




8, 16, 25, 


July - 


■ 4, 


12. 


20, 


29, 


2, 10, 19, 27, 


Aug. - - 


6, 


15, 


23, 


31. 


5, 14, 23, 


Sept. - 


9, 


19, 


'7, 




1, 10, 19, 28, 


ct. - • 

Nov. - - 


5, 
1. 


14, 


24, 





i9t) APPENDIX. 

Maine leaves Bath, Saturday 1 P M. and arrives at Bel- 
fast, Sunday, 1, P. M. leaves Belfast, Sunday, 2 P. M. 
and arrives at Eastport, i uesday, 5 A. M. 

WESTERN ROUTE. 

The Maine leaves Eastport, Wednesday, 8 A. M. and 
arrives at Bath, Friday, 6, P. M. leaves Belfast, Thurs- 
day, 6, P. M. and arrives at Bath, Friday, 5, P. M. 
The Waterville leaves Augusta, Saturday, 5, A. M. and 
arrives at Bath, Saturday 11, A. M. The Patent leaves 
33ath, Saturday 1 P. M and arrives at Portland, Satur- 
day, 7 P. M. leaves Portland, Saturday, 8 P. M. and ar- 
rives a Boston Sunday, 10, A. M, 

The Waterville will leave bath for Augusta, Mondays, 
Wednesdays and Fridays, at 1, P. M. and Augusta for 
Bath, Tuesdays Thurdays nd Saturdays, at 6 A. M. and 
touch at Gardiner and Hailowell, to land and receive 
passengers. 

T e Maine will touch at Boothbay, Owlshead, Castioe 
and Lubec, to land and receive passengers. 

The steam-boat Eagle, runs regularly from Eastport 
to St. John ; and the Tomb-Thumb from Eastport to 
Robbinstown and Calais. They will exchange passen- 
gers with the Maine at astport. 

A ^^lfam B'.i i runs reg lariy from St John toFreder- 
icton, in connection with the above line, whi. h makes 
the Steam Boat Line from Boston to New Brunswick 
complete once a week. 

The numerous Stage Coaches which branch off into 
the country, from a most every point where the S earn 
Boats touch, will be ready to receive passsengers on 
their arrival 

As steam powe has been introduced into this section 
of the country at a very great expense, it is hoped the 
public will duly appreciate the importance of the same, 
and render it that degree of patronage which will meet 
thu reasonable expectations of the proprietors. 

FARE. 

From Boston to Portland, - - - $5 00 

Bath, .... 6 00 

Gardiner, Hallowell and Augusta 7 00 

jRoothbav. ... 60 



APPEiSDLX 19: 

Owlshead, ... a 00 

Belfast and Castine, - 9 00 

Lubec and Eastport, - 11 00 

From Belfast to Eastport, - - - 5 OC 

ERIE CANx\L PACKET BOATS. 

The Packet Boats will e run the ensuing season be- 
tween Schenectady and Lockport, by the Utica and 
Schenectady Packet Boat Company, the Erie Canal 
r^avi^ation Company and the Western Passage Boat 
Company in connection 

A boat will I ave Schenectady, UtiC'., Weed's Basin, 
Rochester a d ockport,eveiy evening, runningthrough 
each way in four days. 

I- is the ititention to arrive at Lockport sufficiently 
early on the fourth day from Schenectady, to enable 
passengers to reach Buffalo the same evening by the 
stage. 

Stages will be provided at all times to convey passen* 
gers from Albany to Schenectady on the arrival 01 the 
steam boats from iNew York — from Schenectady to Al- 
bany on the arrival of the Packet Boats from Utica — be- 
tween Buffalo and Lockport, and from Rochester, Weed's 
Basin, and all the principal villages on the canal, to 
tJiose on the stage roads off from it. — Utica, April 7, 
1825. 

N. B. Should the existing or future rates of toll per- 
mit, and the public patronage authorize it, a m-jming 
Line of boats will be run in the course of the season. 



HI 



rnen^ms. 



PROM BOSTON TO ALBANY. 



IChe ^/irsf line passes through Spnngfield, and the dis- 
tance is 168 miles. 



Framingham, - - 
Worcester, - - - 
Leicester, - - - 
Spencer, _ - - - 4 
Biookfiekl, - - - . 6 
Western . _ - - 6 
Palmer, ----- 7 
Wilbraham, - - - 6 
Sprinzfield^ (Phelps' inn) 

10 (87) 
Westfield, - - - - 9 
IlusseL ----- 3 



22 1 Chester village, - - 
20| Chester Manufactories, 

6iBecket, 

Lee, ------ 

Stockbridge, - - - 
We*t Stockbridge, 



Canaan, ----- 8 



Chatham, - - - 

Nassau, - - - - 

Schoodic, - - - 

Albany, - - - - 



The second line goes every day, through Nortlihamp 
ton and Lebanon Springs, 163 miles. 



Framingliam, 


- 21 


Northampton, 


- 3 


Westborough, - 


- 10 


Chesterfield, 


- 13 


Worcester, 


- 9 


Worthmgton, 


- 6 


Leicester, - 


- 6 


Peru, 


- 6 


Spencer, - 


- 5 


Hinsdale, - 


- 4 


Brooldield, 


- 7 


Pittsfieid, - 


- 9 


Western, - 


- 6 


Lebanon Springs 7 


(137) 


Ware, 


- 8 


Brainard's Bridge, 


- y 


Belchertown, 


- 6 


Union village, - 


- 5 


Amherst, - 


- 7^ 


Schoodic, - 


. 6 


Hadlev, - 


- 4 


Albany, - 


- r> 



APPENDIX. 



1 99 



The third line leaves Boston, Monday, Wednesday, 
and Friday, and is three days on the road ; stopping at 
IBarre and Plainfieldal night. The price is $'5. 



Cambridge, 

Watertown, 

Walt ham, 

Weston, 

Lincoln, 

Concord, 

Sudbury, 

Stow, 

Bolton, 

Lancaster, 

Sterling, 

Princeton, 

Hubbardston, 

Barry, 

Petersham, 

New-Salem, 



Shutesbury, 

Leverett, 

Sunderland, 

Bloody Brook, 

Conway, 

Ashheld, 

Plainfield, 

Savoy, 

Cheshire, 

Lauesborough, 

Hancock, 

Stephentown, 

Sandlake, 

Troy, 

Albany, 



The fourth line passes through Greenfield, 90 miles. 
The distance to Albany is 165 miles. It goes three times 
ii week. 



The Jifth line 


passes through 


Concord, 


(N 


H.) and 


Bellows Falls 


(V 


ermont,) The ibllow 


ing 


list 


contains 


the distances 


and the principal inns on 


the 


way 


to Sara- 


toga Springs. 




L Spaihawk, 


) 






Miles, 


Keene, 




< Coolidge, & 
C Harrington. 


\ 






79 1-2 


Surry, 




Holbrook, 








8 1-3 


Bellows Falls, 




Robertson, 








8 


Chester, 




Leland, 








13 


Londonderry, 




WiUard, 








10 


Peru, 




Tuthill, 








8 


Manchester, 




Black, 








12 


Arlington, 




Hill, 








7 


White Creek, 




Durham, 








U 



200 APPENDIX. 

Union Village, 

SchuylersvUle, Cleveland, 



12 

185 



Through Dorset and Salem to 

Peru, Tutliul, 128 

Dorset, Booth, 14 

Salem, Weils, 15 

Union Village and Schulersville, to the Springs, 29 

186 

JVote. — The new road over the mountain, through 
Londonderry and Peru to Manchester, is finely worked, 
and the inhabitants, who have made it a free road, are 
entitled to great praise. Indeed, all the way, it is a ^ood 
road, and/re f, Iron. Keene, with the exception ot three 
gates. Taking into consideration the great saving of 
distance, with comparatively few bad hills, and the easy 
ascent of the mountian, no one can hesitate a moment in 
the choice. If the traveller wishes to go through the 
pleasent Tillage of Salem, he will there find one of the 
best public houses in the country, and but one hill after 
passing the Green mountain, worth mentioning, the whole 
distance. Report hill has a gradual ascent two miles. 
The road has then a gradual descent along the Batten 
Kill, to the Hudson. In this case he will leave the vil- 
lage of Manchester at his left. In both routes the tra- 
veller passes over the spot of ground where Burgoyne 
surrendered. Chester, as at once appears by the map, 
lies too far North. A new road from Bellows Falls, 
through Grafton to Willard's in Londonderry, is said to 
be making. When completed the distance will be short- 
ened several miles. 



From Boston to Lake CHAMPLAI^^ 

The Jirst line of stage coaches runs through Brattle* 
boTOUSfh, (90 mile?.") three tme? a w^k. 



APPENDIX. 20 i 

The second, through Walpole. 
The third through Charlestown. 
'The fourth through Windsor, 

From Boston to Haverhill. 

A road, still mrther North than those just mentioned, 
leads to Haverhill. 

From Boston to Bath, N. H. 

An uninterrupted communication between this City 
and Bath, by the way of Concord and the Kotch in the 
White Mountains, is expected to he opened this season 
(1825.) For this route see page 137. 

To Lancaster. 

This route has hitherto been only occasionally passed 
by the stage coach, on account of the unfrequency of 
travelling. 

DOWN CONNECTICUT RIVER. 

Bath (N. H.) -Deerfield - - 3 

Haverhill Bloody Brook . 6 

Hanover Hatfield - - 7 

Norwich - - 2 j > orthampton - 5 

White River Village 4 1 Springfield . - 20 

Hart land - - 9jSuffield - 10 

Wmdsor - - slWindsor - - 9 

Wethersfield - - 9 'Hartford - - 7 

Chi.rlestown - 9 jWethersfield - - 4^ 

{to Albany \30m. to Boston jMiddletown - - lOi 

62.) Durham - - 6 

Bellows's Falls - 15 North Haven - 9 

Walpole - - 5 New Haven - - 8 

Brattleborough - 201(>b/ecfm boats go hence to 

Bernardston ! .Yejir York, 1^ mill's.} 
^rreenfield 



:i02 


APPENDIX. 




FROM NEW HAVEN UP CONNECTICUT RIATER, 


New Haven 




Brattleborough 


North Haven 


9 


Walpole 


20 


Durham 


9 


Bellows's Falls - 6 


Middletown 


6 


Charlestown - 15 


Wethersfield - 101-2 


Wethersfield - - 9 


Hartford - - 4 1-2 


Windsor 


- 


Wi/idsor 


J 


Hartland 


. 


Suffield 


10 


White Rivei 


Village 9 


Springfield - 


10 


Norwich 


4 


Northa. pton 


20 


Hanover 


2 


Hatfield 


6 


; averhill 




Bloody Brook 


7 


Bath 




Deerfield 


6 


(Here turns 


off the road to 


Greenfield - 


3 


the White mountains.) 


Beriiaidston 








Fr"m I 


Utica 


to Buff'do. 




Jiew Hartford 


_ 




4 


Westmoreland 


. 




7 


Vernon 


. 




6 


Oneida Creek 


. 




6 


Sullivan 


. 




11 


M niius 


. 




9 


Derne 


, 




3 


Onondaga 


. 




7 


Marcellus 


_ 




10 


Skeneateles 


_ 




6 


Auburn 


. 




9 


Cayuga lake 


. 




8 


Water o - 


. 




4 


Geneva 


. 




6 


Canandaigua 


. 




16 


Bloomfield 


. 




8 


Lima 


. 




9 


Avon 


. 




9 


Caledonia 


. 




8 


Leroy 


_ 




5 


Stafford 


. 




4 


Batavia 


.. 




8 


TonaxrantH Creek - 


. 


4 



APFENBIX. 20i 

Murder Creek - - - 10 

Williarasvilie ... 7 

Buffalo - - - 19 



ono. 



>0£ 

Frmi Canandaga to Rochester. 

The Coaches go from Blossom's Inn at ? o'clock 1^ 
M. and arrive at Rochester about 8 in the evening. 

From Lebanon Springs to HvAsoii- 

Warner's Pond - - - 5 

Canaan - - - - 6 

Chatham - . . - 6 

Ghent .... 3 

Hudson - - - - 10 

30 

From Niagara Falls to Rochester, 87 miles ^ 



Lewiston 


, 


, 


7 


Cambria 


- 


. 


15 


Oak Orchard 


_ 


. 


11 


Gaines 


_ 


. 


7 


Sandy Creek 


. 


- 


8 


Hartland 


. 


. 


7 


(Hence to Lockport 7 


m. a 




waggon takes j 


passeng^ 


ers.; 




Clarkson 


. 




14 


Parma 


. 


. 


7 


Carthage falls 


- 


- 


9 


Rochester - 


- 


- 


ti 



ALBANY, BALLSTON, AND SARATOGA MAIL 
STAGE. 

JVew arrangement —three times a week. 
A stage -vvill leave Albany every Monday, Wednesday 
and Friday, at 7 o'clock, A. M. via Troy, LansingburgU 
and Waterfordfor x^ailaston-Spa, and Saratoga Springs 



^0.4 Ai»FENDli. 

Ketariiing, will leave Saratoga Springs at 8 o'clock, and 
Ballstson-Spa, at half past 9 o'clock, A. M. on Tuesdays, 
Thursdays and Saturdays. 

For seats apply at Mr. Palmer's Montgomery Hall, 
South Market-street, Albany, and at the Post-offices at 
Ballston-Spa, and Saratoga Springs. 

ELIJAH CASTLE, Proprietor. 

FROM NEW-YORK TO BUFFALO, BY THE WAY 
OF ITHACA AND GENEVA. 

This line leaves New-York every day, Sundays ex- 
cepted, and runs through Newark, Springfield, Bottle- 
Hill, Moristown, Succasunny-Plains, Newton, Milltbrd 
and Dundaff, three times a week by the way ol Chenan* 
go Point, and three time, a week by the way of Mont- 
rose, to Owego, and from thence daily, by the way of 
Ithaca and Ovid, to Geneva, where it intersects a daily 
line to Canandaigua, Rochester, Buffalo, Lewiston, &c. 

Returning leaves Geneva at the same times, and pursue 
the same routes to New-York. At Mott's, New-Milford, 
this line intersects the Newburgh line, which runs from 
thence, three times a week, to Newburgh. 

The importance of this line to the public will readily 
be seen : It opens a direct communication between the 
city of New-York and the western part of the State 
through New-Jersey and the nothern section of Pennysl- 
vania. At Newton, (N. J.) it intersects a line which has 
recently been established from that placet© Philadelphia, 
three times a week. At Montrose, it intersects the line, 
to Wilkesbarre, Harrisburgh, &c. At Chenango Point, 
it intersects a line which runs north, through Greene, 
Oxford, &c. to Utica, and intersects the Albany line 
by Cooperstown and Cherry Valley, at Sherburne. At 
Owego, it intersects a line which runs through Tioga 
Point, Elmira, &c. to Bath. 

From Buffalo to Erie Pa. Daily. 
Stage coaches run daily from Buftalo to Eric, Perm. 
Also a new line runs three times, a week. 



XNBSX^ 



A. 

Ackland, Major . - * ^^ «,: o ?o 

Ackland, Lady Harriet . • ■9^, 97, &, 98 

Albany ' ' ' ' a 

Andre's Grave. • • * i^ 

Capture and Execution . . 1-^ 

Anthony's Nose on Hudson River . . 29 

Anthony's Nose, on Erie Canal . . ' ?? 

Antiquities . ^ • • • ^^' ?A 

Arnold's ti-eachery . . • po 

Aqueduct, Lower . . . • 28 

Upper ' • • ?5 

at Little Falls , • - . eO 

at Rochester ... 42 

Auburn . . . - .75 

B. 

Baker's Falls .... 130 

Ballston Springs - . • .99 

Basin Harbour > , . • 137 

Batavia . .... 64 

Battles of Bemis's Heights . * 87 

Bennington .... 86 

Bridgewater or Lundy's Lane . 55 

Montmorency . • - 147 

Chippewa . • • .53 

Lake George ... 122 

Quebec , . • • 148 

do. in 1775 ... 149 

Queenston . . ♦ 47 

Rocky Brook - . • 11*7 

Saratoga , , . - 91 

SiUery . . . .149 

Ticonderoga . . • 1^6 

Beauport . . . v , 14« 



206 



INDEX. 



Bloody Pond 


118 


Bloomfield 


: . 65 


Books recommended 


6 


Borough 


83 


Boston .... 


198 


Brock (Gen.) Death and Monument 


48 


Brothertown 


S6 


Buffalo 


69 


Burlington 


137 


Burgoyne, (Gen.) Expedition 


85 


Battle ground 


88 


Quartei-s 


96 


Retreat 


95 


Surrender 

C. 

Canals. 


112 




Champlain Canal 


82, 133 


Erie do. . 


: 24, 155 


Canals Projected 


185 


To bay of Fundy . 


151 


Canal Routes 




From Albany to Schenectady, (map page 88.) 25 


Schenectady to Utica (map 30) 


29 


Utica to Syracuse (map 34) 


32 


Syracuse fo Rochester (map 41) 


, , 40 


Rochester to Lockport (map) 


41 


Lockport to Buffalo (map) 


. 47,59 


Auburn to Syracuse 


78 


Syracuse to Utica 


79 


tJtica to Schenectady 


80 


Shenectady to Albany 


81 


Fort Edward to Whitehall 


134 


Canals in Great Britain 


171 


Canajoharie » • , 


96 


Canandaigua . „ 


29 


Cape Rouge 


11 


St. Vincent .... 


35, 141 


Carthage . 


4S 


Catskill .... 


15 


Catskill mountains, 


15 


Caughnawaga 


29 


Caughnav aga Indians 


141 


Cayuga Marshes 


7 



207 



Center Harbour 


Viiuiujy. 


176 


Chambly 


. 


139, 143 
144 


Chaudiere river, 


. 


Cherry Valley 


. 


29, 34 
67 


Chippewa 


. 


Cleaveland 


. 


61 


Clarkson 


, 


44 


Cohoes Falls 


Colleges, 


28 


Burlington 




137 


Hamilton 


. 


31 


Concord, (N H.) 


. 


174 


Congress Hall 


. 


106 


Spring 


. 


107 


Conway 


. 


180 


Crown Point 


D. 


136 


Dieskau, Gen. 


, 


117, 136 


Dobb's Ferry 


E. 


8 


East Canada Creek 


29 


Essex , . 


F. 


137 


.Falls, Bakers 


, 


137 


Carthage 


. . 


, 43, 44 


Glenns' 


, 


116 


Miller's 


, 


131 


Montmorency 


.. 


146 


IMiagara 
Rochester 


. 


. 47, 49 


, 


. 43 


Trenton 


. 


31 


Ithaca 


. 


70 


at Catskill mountain 


17 


Flint Hill 


- . 


29 


Florida 


. 


29 


Frazer, Gen. Death, 


. 


96 


Grave 




95 


Forts Anne 


. 


134 


Clinton 


, 


9 


Crown Point 


- 


136 


Edward , 


, 


131 


Herkimpr 


• 


20 



$>08 liSDEX.' 

Forts Hunter . - ^ ' 29 

Independence .... 8 

Lee .... 8 

Miller 131 

Mohawk's . - e • 29 

Montgomery ... 9 

Niagara . , . .47 

Oswego .... 122 

Plain ..... 29 

Stanwix, ... 33 

Ticonderoga .... 126 

Washington . . 8 

William Henry . . . .125 

G. 

Gallop Islands ... 68 141 

Gates's, Gen. Camp ... .87 

Glenn's Falls ... 116 

Genesee river ... 41, 58, 64, 141 

Meadows .... 04 

Genesee - , , . . 64 

Geneva . . • . 69 

German Flatts .... 29 

Grand river .... 61 

Green Bay .... 61 

Great Sodus bay . . 35, 141 

H. 

Harlaem Heights .... 8 

Hartland ... 44 

Herkimer ..... 29 

General do. 33 

Highlands .... 9 

Hoboken , . . . . 8 

Hudson city . , . . . 18 

River. .... 7 

I. 

Indians, Caughnawagas . . . 142 

Menominies ... 61 

Oneidas, , . . .34 

Senecas ... 62 

Tuscaroras , . . . 45 

Island of St. Helena ... 140 

J?le anx Noix. ^ . . 13ff 



INDEX 



J. 



Ithaca 

Johnson, Sir William 

Johnstown 

Jnnction 



Lachine 
Lakes, Ballston 
Cayuga 
Canandaigua 
Champlain 
Erie 
George 

Excursion to do. 
Ontario 
Saratoga 
Winnipiseogee 
Laprairie 
Lebanon Springs 
Leroy 
Lewiston 
Little Falls 
Lockport 
Long Level 
Lovell's Pond 
Lundy's Lane 

iM. 
McCrea, Miss 
McDonough's Victory 
Maitland, S rP legrine 
Maps, Hudson River 
Erie Canal 
IN'iagara 
Lake George 
Lake Champlain 
Montreal 
Maps recommended 
Mas acre ai Ft. William Heniy 
Mechanicville , . , 

Military Agademy 
Miller's Falls 
S2 



2U9 

11 

30 

29,30 

26 

58, 141 

103 

70 

66 

136 

60 

119 

115 

58, 141 

109 

. 176, 179 

139 

20 

64 

44 46 

80, 29 

44 

. 29, 32 

180 

55 

133 

138 

48 

8,9, 15,88, 110 

30,34,66,41,47,76 

47 

116 

136, 137 

139 

6 

125 

83 

11 

131 



210 


INDEX, 




Miller's Fort 


N 


131 


Montmorency 


, 


146 


Montreal 


, , , 


58, 140, 152 


Morristown 


, 


59, 141 


Mouni Holyoke 


N 


22 


?Jewburgh 


13 


New Lebanon Springs, 


, 


. 19,20 


TSfew York city 


. 


5 


Niagara Fails from American side 


47 


Canada side 


49 


Northampton 


0. 


22 


Oak Orchard Creek 


44 


Ogdensburgh 


• 


58, 141 


Oneida Castle 




34 


Creek 


. 


32,79 


Indians 




34 


Oriskany 


* , * ; 


32 


Oswego 


. 


58, 141 


Overslaugh 


•»\ 


19 


Packet boats on the Canals. 


197 


Palisadoes 




8 


Pine Orchard 


' 


16 


Plattsburgh 




138 


Portland 


. 


. 195 


Quebec 


Q- 


145 


Queenstown 


k 


47 


Kapids of Niagara 




50 


Richelieu, 


, 


144 


Red Mountain, 




176 


Reidesel, Baroness, 


, 


86 


Ridge Road, 


Roads. 


44 


from Albany 


, , 


19 


north, 


• • > 


152 


east. 


, 


20, 113 


west. 


• • • 


19 



INDEX 



211 



from Auburn to Sjrracuse, . 


1 


78 


Boston to Albany, 


, 


198 


to the Springs, 


. 


199 


to Lake Champlain, 


, , 


200 


to White Mountains, 


, 


173 


to Winnipiseogee Lake, 


- 


173 


from Buffalo to Canandaigua, 


, 


63 


from Lake George to the Springs, 


, 


130 


from Niagara to Buffalo, 
from Rocheste' to Niagara, 


, 


67 


, 


44 


from VVatert'ord to Sar-toga Battle ground, 


83 


from Whitehall to Albany, 


. 


152 


[See ,'ioutes and Steam boats.'] 






Rocester, 


, 


41 


Rocky Book, 




117 


Rome . . . 


. 


32 


Rotterdam Flats, 




29 


Re und Rock, 


, 


107 


Rouse's Point, 




138 


Routes. 






from Albany to Ballston Springs, . 


. 19,25,28, 


to Boston, 


, 


20 


to Niagara, 


. 19,82 


115 


to Lake George, 


do 


113 


to Montreal, 




20 


to New Lebanon Springs, 


19, 25, 82 


to Saratoga Springs, 




83 


from Boston, he. [,. e page 198] 






from Montreal to Niagara, 




141 


to Quebec, 




143 


froni Quebec to Montreal 




151 


Rutland, 
Sacketts Harbour, 




136 


40, 58, 


141 


St. John's, . , , 


139, 143, 


162 


St. Regis, 


58, 


141 


Salina, 


^ 


38 


Salt Springs, . , . , 




39 


Saltworks, 




37 


Sandusky, .... 




61 


Sandy Creek, , . . ' 




44 


Sandy Hill, .... 


116; 


130 



212 IxNDEX. 



Sans Souci, .. ^ 


t>U 


Saratoga, 


J05 


Schenectady, . • „ . 


28 


Schoharrie Creek, . 


29, 81 


Schuyler, Gen, 


112 


Schuylersville, 


111 


Shaker Village, 


22 


Sillery, 


144 


Skeneateles, .... 


79 


Sorel Village, 


143 


Sorel River, 


139 


Spa, Ballston . . 


99 


Saratoga, 


103 


Lebanon, 


20 


Steam Boats. 




from Albany to New York, 


191 


New York Up the Hudson, 


191 


New York to Connecticut 


192 


New York to Philadelphia 


194 


New York to Rhode Island, 


192 


on Cayuga Lake, ■ • . 


70 


on Lake Champlain, . . . . 


152 


on Lake George, .... 


129 


on Lake Ontario ... 


58, 141 


r)n Lake Erie 


60, 106 


Springs. 




Ballston, .... 


102 


Burning, 


52, 66 


NewLebarion, 


20 


Salt, .... 


38, 79 


Saratoga, 


105 


Squain Lake. 


179 


Stillwater, 


83 


Stony Point, ... 


9 


Syracuse, 


32, 37 


T. 




Table Rock, 


49 


Tarrytown, ^ . » . 


9 


Trenton Falls, 


31 


Trois Rivieres, 


143 


Troy, . . 


25 


Titscarora Indians, 


45 



i:\jQKX oi^ 



^'tica, - . , 50, 31 

Verplank's Point . . , o 

W. 

Wadsworth's Farm, • . . 64 

Waterloo, (Canada,) • . . 57 

Wat Hoix Gap, , • . , 28 

Wesi Canada Creek, ♦ - . 31 

West Point, . . . . .11 

Whirlpool, • - • . , 48 

Whitehall, - . . , 134 

White Mountains, . ' . . , 373 

Whitesborough, . . , 32, 33 

Wiunipiseogee Lake, . , , 176^ I79 

Wolfe's Cove, . . . , 144 

Wood Creek, near Lake Champlaia. 134 

near Rome , o 32, 79 



The Publishers of the ^'NORTHERN TRAVELLER," 
being desirous of obtaining every species of information 
necessary to travellers in the northern and eastern parts 
of this country, will be particularly obliged to any per- 
son who will communicate facts of importance for fur- 
ther editions of this work, as well as for the correction 
of any inacura'cies which may very possibly be noticed 
in a work embracing such a variety of subjects. 

Artists who may be in possession of handsome draw- 
ings of remarkable scenes fee. calculated for copper- 
plate engravings, are requested, if they are disposed to 
sell them, to forward them, for inspection, to the store 
of Wilder h Campbell, 142 Broadway, New York. 



926 



